jerrad

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info.

Hopefully you can figure out your issue.

Becker

iTrader: (4)

By everything I've seen it may the slightest clutch drag. Maybe your measurements are on the decision line of needing a shim. Sounds like none of which this can be answered unless the transmission is pulled. That's at too bad the mc wasn't the fix. I am excited to hopefully feel an improvement.

1BADCTS

iTrader: (17)

Never mind...I found my problem

MarkOne

After a few days of driving around with the tilton clutch cylinder installed, here's my take on everything so far:

Shifting from 1-6 maybe got a tad bit easier, but not highly noticeable (maybe because the hurst kit is notchy to begin with). But I definitely have more confidence in getting into gear while speed shifting. When downshifting, I no longer get the random gear lockout I was experiencing with the oem clutch cylinder. Reverse is still a bit of a struggle to get into, but not as bad as it used to be. Pedal stiffness is definitely increased compared to stock, but bearable. Maybe it will decrease as time goes on.

philistine

iTrader: (2)

Looks like many have installed the kits so far - that's great! Based on feedback, going forward the kits will include the silver collar that has the 3 set screws instead of the black oxide collar. They both accomplish the task of securing the master cylinder but the preferred is the silver knurled design - it was a design change I did midway through the kits.

The threaded pushrod on the master cylinder is fine threaded which mitigates unthreading through vibration. The silver rod-arm that threads to the pushrod is designed to capture as many threads as possible to avoid shallow threading - this also mitigates any unthreading. The base of the pushrod which seats inside the Tilton master cylinder is spherical. The design is also to mitigate any unthreading. The silver rod-arm that attaches to the threaded Tilton pushrod installs with some compression which applies some force on the threads and locks them together - this also further mitigates any unthreading.

The silver rod-arm does not have a jam nut because the adjustment does not allow it due to the clutch pedal position switch. There is no place to put a nut because the silver rod-arm slides throughout the travel inside the switch. A jam nut would prevent travel. This has to do with the design of the switch that GM decided for the V1s. For example, Corvettes do not have the clutch pedal switch riding on the pushrod - it's in an alternate location so that design can use a jam nut on the adjustable arm.

Medium strength threadlocker can be used on the threaded pushrod for peace-of-mind. It's anaerobic and cures in the absence of air with tight clearances. There should be sufficient time to make adjustments with the rod-arm before any curing of the threadlocker.

Personally, I have the black collar and do not use any threadlocker on the pushrod - no issues and all the settings have remained firm! Going forward, all kits will include a .5ml medium strength threadlocker to be used at the discretion of the owner/installer. Again, it's not required but if anything will give a few that peace-of-mind.

Thanks!

gangnam style

for me i'd rather just do away with the clutch safety switch altogether if it didn't bring up a check engine light (is that possible?). i don't think it's a great design but i'd say same with the stock master.

i have the black collar and wasn't *that* big of a deal but i can see the knurled one with the set screws on the face of the collar being easier to install. that being said, if i had a choice, would have opted for the silver one.

feels like it's definitely in gear and reverse doesn't require shifting to 4th. worthwhile upgrade for sure

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

I have no idea what the connector looks like but on the old fox bodies all you had to do was cut the two wires and splice them together. Dont take my word on it but someone else might chime in.

VeryWhiteDevil

iTrader: (9)

our switch has 4 wires.. I am sure you could do it. don't ever valet it. outcome would not be good.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

A paperclip "jumper" into the harness side of the clutch position sensor's plug lets the car drive without a MIL/CEL and with cruise control properly functioning. I would just do that if you want to get rid of the sensor. Just be aware that your car WILL turn over in gear if you turn the key without the clutch disengaged...

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Put a hidden toggle switch on it for a little old school theft deterrent...

kpforce1

iTrader: (9)

This is a fantastic mod.... fortunately I haven't had as many issues as some with the stock MC due to the previous owner replacing the clutch/flywheel and slave, but I will be doing this for sure. Should go nicely with me reworking the entire stock linkage bushings, shifter shaft mod, and CS shifter bushings

gangnam style

no one drives my car but me. the multitude of youtube videos of valets jacking up cars is enough for me to find my own parking.

i'll look into that. i did this on bikes for years and they're always parked in gear. just wasn't sure it's the same thing.

great idea

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Anyone else having issues with the clutch pedal sticking at the point where the return spring changes tension? It's at the last 3/4" or so of travel before the pedal is at its highest position. My clutch position sensor doesn't appear to be binding. The pedal travels freely when the master cylinder push rod is disconnected. The hydraulic system has been well bled, even more so as a precaution once the problem started.

philistine

iTrader: (2)

A lot of V1s have a broken factory clutch pedal spring. This can cause some interference. However, the Tilton has an internal spring built into it and does not need the factory spring.

Here is a broken factory clutch pedal spring:



If your clutch pedal spring is broken, remove it and discard it...you no longer need it. The Tilton uses it's own internal so it does not rely on it. The Tilton does not need a 'healthy' spring either.

serik21

Who ever designed the clutch safety switch for the cts-v at gm needs to get fired. Nuff said.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, same design as the C5 and C6, swapped out one for my dad in his car. I'm fairly certain I saw a complete spring, but lets say it was broken, the internal spring in the Tilton should be enough to return the clutch pedal? If that's the case, something must be binding.

Things were normal after the initial install, but the clutch friction point was significantly higher on the pedal stroke and modulation very grabby. After adjusting the threaded push rod to lower the friction point back to where it was with the OEM MC, the pedal return problem started. The problem lessened the more I unscrewed the threaded rod, which increased the pedal stroke and brought the pedal to a higher resting point. I attributed that to the pedal travel increasing past the changeover point on the clutch spring. At any point near the red paint on the MC push rod, the threaded end definitely limits the upper travel of the pedal, meaning the pedal has to be compressed before the MC can be attached. I'm not sure mow much compression was required with the OEM MC and it it possibly had a longer rod arm.

serik21

Philstine I got the push rod threared all the way in and im about 1/8 away from factory hard stop. Should I take it all off and cut down the push rod to get it all the way to the factory hardstop?

philistine

iTrader: (2)

That is very unusual. I test measure each one on a mock-up then ensure there is more than enough clearance.

If you are 1/8" away from the factory hard stop, yeah you need to take off a couple threads from the threaded push-rod if you are certain the rod-arm is bottomed out.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Just wondering if you have a date in mind for more inventory...?

philistine

iTrader: (2)

Since I'm in orange now - I'm legit. I got kits available that can ship Monday. I'll start a new thread with the info...