Fuel pump
03-12-2015, 12:44 PM
#21
Agreed on the manifold reference and hell ya thank you for pointing me to the patch
I received the PWM module yesterday. I will likely hold off on install until I get a long weekend as I will have to redo all my tuning and I have some drivability tweaks I want to check out first.
03-12-2015, 06:03 PM
#22
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I'm interested in adding a pwm if it's feasible as an addition to what I'm working on.
03-13-2015, 08:39 AM
#23
More good news!!!
Holley HydraMat™ Update
The moment that you have been anxiously awaiting is just about here! The shapes and sizes of the Holley HydraMat have been determined and we will begin shipping them on May 1, 2015. With 13 different HydraMats, you can be sure that there is a HydraMat to fit your needs! Without further ado, here are links to each HydraMat!
To browse the entire HydraMat lineup at once, just click HERE. To see the individual HydraMats, check out the following links.
15" x 8", cross
11" x 11", cross
15" x 15", cross
15" x 15", square
15" x 3", rectangle
15" x 8", cross
11" x 11", square
24" x 15", rectangle
30" x 14", rectangle (ARCA-spec part)
30" x 14", rectangle (Center and side pickups)
30" x 14", rectangle (Center and one side pickups)
8" x 3", rectangle
8" x 8", cross
Surface tension and fluid wicking are two key aspects that give it the amazing ability to draw fuel from nearly any area of the mat that has contact with fuel. When the HydraMat has contact with fuel, it stores the fuel in an internal reservoir. As an area of the HydraMat is uncovered, the tiny pores of the media seal off through surface tension, forcing fuel to be contained in the reservoir and drawn from other areas of the mat where fuel is available. The sheer size and coverage area of the HydraMat allows it to pull fuel from virtually any area in the tank or cell eliminating the need for specialty reservoirs and pick up pumps saving cost and greatly reducing complexity.
The moment that you have been anxiously awaiting is just about here! The shapes and sizes of the Holley HydraMat have been determined and we will begin shipping them on May 1, 2015. With 13 different HydraMats, you can be sure that there is a HydraMat to fit your needs! Without further ado, here are links to each HydraMat!
To browse the entire HydraMat lineup at once, just click HERE. To see the individual HydraMats, check out the following links.
15" x 8", cross
11" x 11", cross
15" x 15", cross
15" x 15", square
15" x 3", rectangle
15" x 8", cross
11" x 11", square
24" x 15", rectangle
30" x 14", rectangle (ARCA-spec part)
30" x 14", rectangle (Center and side pickups)
30" x 14", rectangle (Center and one side pickups)
8" x 3", rectangle
8" x 8", cross
Surface tension and fluid wicking are two key aspects that give it the amazing ability to draw fuel from nearly any area of the mat that has contact with fuel. When the HydraMat has contact with fuel, it stores the fuel in an internal reservoir. As an area of the HydraMat is uncovered, the tiny pores of the media seal off through surface tension, forcing fuel to be contained in the reservoir and drawn from other areas of the mat where fuel is available. The sheer size and coverage area of the HydraMat allows it to pull fuel from virtually any area in the tank or cell eliminating the need for specialty reservoirs and pick up pumps saving cost and greatly reducing complexity.
03-13-2015, 09:37 AM
#24
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That is literally making my head spin. Now making me rethink my whole fuel system.
Maybe a pwm single large pump like the walbro 460 and hydra mat..,,
Damn
Or
An external hooked to the hydramat, doesn't get much simpler than that...
Maybe a pwm single large pump like the walbro 460 and hydra mat..,,
Damn
Or
An external hooked to the hydramat, doesn't get much simpler than that...
Last edited by tommycompton; 03-13-2015 at 09:42 AM.
03-13-2015, 12:41 PM
#26
Looks as if I'll be movin forward with the external mount DW300! No more current in the tank!
03-13-2015, 12:42 PM
#27
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My idea right now is, installing a bulk head near the bottom of the tank, and running 2 smaller hydramats on each side of the tank Y'd together, To an external mana fuel 625.
On the return y block it in the tank, spitting fuel to both socks on each side of the hump.
Gut the stock bucket and use it for the fuel level float only.
On the return y block it in the tank, spitting fuel to both socks on each side of the hump.
Gut the stock bucket and use it for the fuel level float only.
03-14-2015, 11:26 AM
#28
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Holley is back ordered on the hydra mat, but should shipping out more on the 17th.
I measured the bottom of the tank and it looks like two of the 15"x8", X shaped ones would be a good fit. I was thinking of hard lining the two together, then hard lined to the bulkhead. I'd do ptfe braided lines, but not sure how it would hold up submerged, I wouldn't want to be going in there every couple years to replace it.
But damn that hydra mat ain't cheap.
Anybody want to buy 2 racetronix 255's and a kenne bell bap? Lol
Also a have a slightly used aeromotive 340.
I measured the bottom of the tank and it looks like two of the 15"x8", X shaped ones would be a good fit. I was thinking of hard lining the two together, then hard lined to the bulkhead. I'd do ptfe braided lines, but not sure how it would hold up submerged, I wouldn't want to be going in there every couple years to replace it.
But damn that hydra mat ain't cheap.
Anybody want to buy 2 racetronix 255's and a kenne bell bap? Lol
Also a have a slightly used aeromotive 340.
Last edited by tommycompton; 03-14-2015 at 03:11 PM. Reason: Typo
03-14-2015, 06:41 PM
#29
Looks like this thread is gonna bear some fruit and bring the V1 fuel system to the next level - great work!
03-19-2015, 02:35 PM
#30
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Just got off the phone from a tech from Holley as I had questions about connecting the mats together. My question was if one side of the hump tank was dry, would the hydramat suck air from the dry side, introducing air into the fuel system. He assured me it would not, and that teeing the two together would Infact work for a saddle shaped tank.
From inspecting the tank it looks like a bulk head connection would probably be needed for each side of the tank, rather than hard lining inside the tank. I don't think there is enough room to feed a fitting and mat over the hump from inside, the space is very tight. So I may make a second access panel under the seat to access the other side of the tank, through the other side tank opening, it's that or drop the tank.
I was going to install the dual pumps and slowly work on this, but I'm torn on doing this now, and selling off my parts for the dual pump ( need to recoup some cash).
From inspecting the tank it looks like a bulk head connection would probably be needed for each side of the tank, rather than hard lining inside the tank. I don't think there is enough room to feed a fitting and mat over the hump from inside, the space is very tight. So I may make a second access panel under the seat to access the other side of the tank, through the other side tank opening, it's that or drop the tank.
I was going to install the dual pumps and slowly work on this, but I'm torn on doing this now, and selling off my parts for the dual pump ( need to recoup some cash).
04-13-2015, 11:09 AM
#31
WHile trying to track down a lean hot restart issue I noticed my FP vary from 52 psi to 64 psi and the resultant open loop lambda jump nearly 10% itself. No bueno, especially for an FI car. The vaporworx module is sitting on the shelf while I tried to decide on my path forward (external pump with hydramat or internal pump/pumps). I think I will go with the internal pump but with hydramat to avoid our bucket issues. That leaves me with how to plumb everything.
Tommy are you suggesting an external connection between the two mats (I assume so with the bulkhead statement)? Why not an internal connection (you would still have to cut the access door to get to the drivers side of the tank)? It seems to me this would be the preferred method except for the potential cost of the submersible fuel hose as this keeps the fuel from abrading against the top of the tank and bottom of the cabin/seat. Just trying to figure out if you saw something I did not...
BTW - Damn hydramat is pricey.
From inspecting the tank it looks like a bulk head connection would probably be needed for each side of the tank, rather than hard lining inside the tank.
BTW - Damn hydramat is pricey.
04-13-2015, 11:29 AM
#32
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WHile trying to track down a lean hot restart issue I noticed my FP vary from 52 psi to 64 psi and the resultant open loop lambda jump nearly 10% itself. No bueno, especially for an FI car. The vaporworx module is sitting on the shelf while I tried to decide on my path forward (external pump with hydramat or internal pump/pumps). I think I will go with the internal pump but with hydramat to avoid our bucket issues. That leaves me with how to plumb everything.
Tommy are you suggesting an external connection between the two mats (I assume so with the bulkhead statement)? Why not an internal connection (you would still have to cut the access door to get to the drivers side of the tank)? It seems to me this would be the preferred method except for the potential cost of the submersible fuel hose as this keeps the fuel from abrading against the top of the tank and bottom of the cabin/seat. Just trying to figure out if you saw something I did not...
BTW - Damn hydramat is pricey.
Tommy are you suggesting an external connection between the two mats (I assume so with the bulkhead statement)? Why not an internal connection (you would still have to cut the access door to get to the drivers side of the tank)? It seems to me this would be the preferred method except for the potential cost of the submersible fuel hose as this keeps the fuel from abrading against the top of the tank and bottom of the cabin/seat. Just trying to figure out if you saw something I did not...
BTW - Damn hydramat is pricey.
The reason I was thinking of plumbing on the outside with bulk heads is, there is barely enough room to get a hose over the hump let alone anything with fittings, such as the hydra mat, so either way you'd probably have to access the other side of the tank to plumb it all together.
I'm for the time being going forward with dual intank 255 with return. I'll rethink the hydramat if I run into problems. Couldn't justify spending the extra cash right after I just bought all the things to do the fuel system.
04-14-2015, 03:18 PM
#34
TECH Enthusiast
So... quick question.
I'm going to have my car in the dealership for the fuel pump module recall. I currently have a Magnavolt (works without issues) hooked up to my car.
The Tech asked if I had any aftermarket pump in the car that needed to be swapped to the new module ( I don't think I do as I bought the car already maggied and magnavolt equipped).
Should I get a DW300 and slap it in the new fuel pump module while the dealer has it all apart? Or would that just be a waste of money?
I'm going to have my car in the dealership for the fuel pump module recall. I currently have a Magnavolt (works without issues) hooked up to my car.
The Tech asked if I had any aftermarket pump in the car that needed to be swapped to the new module ( I don't think I do as I bought the car already maggied and magnavolt equipped).
Should I get a DW300 and slap it in the new fuel pump module while the dealer has it all apart? Or would that just be a waste of money?
04-14-2015, 03:44 PM
#35
I had worked with Justin a few years back and there was no solution to using any PWmodules as that was the stopping point i had encountered.
04-14-2015, 03:50 PM
#36
Used 1/2" Fluoroelastomer bio-diesel grade hose to X cross the internals of the tank - siphon of each side of the saddle tank. Drains equally.
Have -6 from each pump go to a fuel block.. -8 forward and regulated return after the rails, flat line the IFR tables.. zero issues. Blower maxes out before the fuel does. Done. I get the premise of PW.. but... i wanted to drive the thing..
Last edited by vmapper; 04-14-2015 at 04:45 PM. Reason: added comments
04-14-2015, 04:34 PM
#37
Put a DW300 in it. Stock boost you won't need the magnavolt. Spin it more and you need the pump and BAP.
So... quick question.
I'm going to have my car in the dealership for the fuel pump module recall. I currently have a Magnavolt (works without issues) hooked up to my car.
The Tech asked if I had any aftermarket pump in the car that needed to be swapped to the new module ( I don't think I do as I bought the car already maggied and magnavolt equipped).
Should I get a DW300 and slap it in the new fuel pump module while the dealer has it all apart? Or would that just be a waste of money?
I'm going to have my car in the dealership for the fuel pump module recall. I currently have a Magnavolt (works without issues) hooked up to my car.
The Tech asked if I had any aftermarket pump in the car that needed to be swapped to the new module ( I don't think I do as I bought the car already maggied and magnavolt equipped).
Should I get a DW300 and slap it in the new fuel pump module while the dealer has it all apart? Or would that just be a waste of money?
04-14-2015, 04:47 PM
#38
TECH Enthusiast
04-14-2015, 05:18 PM
#39
Should I get a DW300 and slap it in the new fuel pump module while the dealer has it all apart? Or would that just be a waste of money?
Put a DW300 in it. Stock boost you won't need the magnavolt. Spin it more and you need the pump and BAP.
I have a smaller pulley (2.7") and currently at 8.9psi right now with plans to do 1:1 rears in the near future
04-15-2015, 10:08 AM
#40
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what I did. ** should clarify (one gss340 pump per side of saddle) not both on one side.
Used 1/2" Fluoroelastomer bio-diesel grade hose to X cross the internals of the tank - siphon of each side of the saddle tank. Drains equally.
Have -6 from each pump go to a fuel block.. -8 forward and regulated return after the rails, flat line the IFR tables.. zero issues. Blower maxes out before the fuel does. Done. I get the premise of PW.. but... i wanted to drive the thing..
Used 1/2" Fluoroelastomer bio-diesel grade hose to X cross the internals of the tank - siphon of each side of the saddle tank. Drains equally.
Have -6 from each pump go to a fuel block.. -8 forward and regulated return after the rails, flat line the IFR tables.. zero issues. Blower maxes out before the fuel does. Done. I get the premise of PW.. but... i wanted to drive the thing..