jclayc

iTrader: (8)

I've got one coming from mechman. Putting it in along with an odyssey battery

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

Alright, I'm due for an update a few weeks later... but I won't leave out any steps I've taken to save someone else time.

So far:

I've replaced an everstart maxx battery from walmart which was about a week old with an autocraft AGM battery (which is incidentally the exact same one that has AC Delco's name on it). - this didn't fix it.

Ran 2 gauge battery cable from my alternator to a distribution block, then the block fed directly to the starter, and then the other output of the block went to the battery. I then used a Stinger battery terminal to go from the battery to the fuse box. - this didn't rectify the issue.

I took my ECU out, measured the voltage from every voltage related pin in it (thanks to Darkman for posting the ECU diagram like 4 years ago), I then got the Ohm meter going and checked continuity from both pin-outs that lead to the alternator, of course they were fine, as it's never an easy fix.

Next step, is trying PISNUOFF's or BowtieSS's old used, but working alternator in place of the one I purchased from Hite. I will know for sure if it's this alternator.

This all being said, assuming the used alternator works, what do I do? It's possible Hite got a bad batch of alternators with possibly bad voltage regulators.

s-cam

I put a new alternator on last month also and had the same issue. I spun the pulley on my old one and that's why I had to put a new alt on. I could not stand reving the car to get it to charge so I pulled it off and took the regulator out of my old one and put it in the new one and now it works fine. Seems like it's a bad run of regulators that is causing the issue....

Going to see if I can somehow get a regulator so I have a spare.....

hefftone

Same here.
EBay reman alt from widautoparts1993. My multimeter sucks so I can't really tell what the voltage is but its over 14 volts.
Damn I wish I just bought the one at oreilly for $60 more.

jclayc

iTrader: (8)

I had a reman one from hiteparts that required a rev before the battery not charging light would turn off, then it'd charge normally. I replaced it with a mechman alternator and the problem is solved.

philistine

iTrader: (2)

you get what you pay for...who do you think is assembling the remans? Go brand new OEM and get standards or go beyond and get a Mechman.

hefftone

Lol, wtf!?!?!

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Thread revival - did anyone who posted here about alternator/charging troubles try just replacing the pigtail on the electrical connector (the 4 terminal, 2 wire connector that goes to the alternator)? I'm watching my voltage jump around from 14.5 to 12.0 and it seems to be directly related to the engine rocking/moving around. Thus, a blip of the throttle will either cause the "battery not charging" message and 12.0v or less, or will remedy that very situation. I took it upon myself to wiggle around the 2 wires that go to this electrical connector while the car was running and noticed that wiggling these wires was causing the voltage drop/lack of charging. Wiggling them around again would bring the voltage back to a charging level. I want to splice in a new connector/wires, but can' be sure I've got the right part 'cause most of the connectors I can find online are advertised as blower motor connectors and other things... none seem to be identified as alternator electrical connectors.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Try Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271528807301?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT