Corey Browning

I have gotten some info. But overall I do not feel comfortable buying an ls2 block. I know there are some adapting factors involved with a few select sensors but I havn't found which ones or where to get the kit.I have a huge hole in the side of my ls6 .

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Why bother with an LS2. Go to an LS3 or just build a gen III motor.

Corey Browning

I know nothing about an ls3 swap and I am researching ls1 options. I am open to many ideas, ls7 is probably too expensive. The ls2 seems like the perfect medium between displacement and economy.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

The ls3 is basically a newer, more powerful version of an ls2 and from what I can tell, it takes the same effort to install it in an LS6 car. There are some earlier LS2 cranks that have the LS6 style reluctor wheel but the earlier LS2s will still require the harness extensions and conversions.

The LS1 will bolt in but its a little down on power compared to the LS6 and I don't know that they're really cheap to find good used ones but I haven't looked either....they've been on the road for a long time by now.

Because the LS7 has a dry sump oiling system, it has a different crank snout which is longer than the LS6 so it will require a significant amount of work to install but it has been done. Not to mention the reluctor wheel etc...

Iron block Gen III motors are cheap but will require an adapter plate to bolt into the V1. If you aren't shooting for the moon power wise, the adapters don't seem to be hard to build and on a budget, I'd do this for a basic stock replacement engine.

Again, as far as I can tell with my limited searching, the Gen III LS6 based engine is just fine for anything up to say 600hp?? but beyond that, its cheaper to build a Gen IV motor because of improved head design???

I think that's about right but it isn't a hard search I just haven't really needed to go that far yet.

Corey Browning

I have not heard about adaptor plates being needed for the ls1 into the v. What are they adapting, thanks for the enlightenment btw.

Corey Browning

And I want at or around 550hp to the the flywheel. 150 more than stock (for ls6). Heads cam intake combos out there can achieve that. Amirite? I have done more mod research since I was hoping to rebuild the ls6, but it's dead.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

the ls1 bolts in its the iron blocks that need the adapters. Good luck

actrite80

iTrader: (2)

Simple fix buy a ls3 send it to me and I will send you my low mileage ls6 haha your welcome

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Ls3 with ported heads and nice cam should hive you the power you need. Treat it like a ls2 upgrade in regards to harnesses and sensor upgrades.

More displacement means more power...

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Why has no one yet mentioned ls3 top end on the ls2? That is the way to go. And I wish I had to some extent. But I already had all the parts before I discovered how good the square port heads are. And cheap too! You can do some AI 823 heads for the same price as their 243 heads and out flow them in every sense. So I'd buy an ls2 block and crank obviously go with the 24 reluctor wheel, good rods and Pistons with the ls3 top end. You'll easily hit 550 at the crank.

More budget friendly keep your 243 heads and do the 90mm ls6 intake graft.

05CTSV

iTrader: (16)

The 6.0 iron block for the money is a reasonable swap. The only gotcha beside the motor mount bolt holes is the alternator bracket bolt holes. I'm building an iron block 6.0 right now as a 408 stroker. Here are the plates I made for the motor mounts.


For me I didn't care about the added weight, just wanted an iron block to take some added abuse.

I also considered an ls3 block, but didn't want to mess with relocating can sensor or knock sensor.

The LS3 heads on a 6.0 block are a good route too. I would have gone that way but already have all trick flow cathedral heads, fast intake etc. I'm just using what I have to simplify things.

Corey Browning

I like it.
Ls3 blocks are 2x as expensive.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I have a 6.0 that i stroked and bolted on ported ls3 heads and ported truck intake. It wasnt cheap but affordable.

Made 520/520 at the flywheel but with a ls7 cam and 1.85 rockers. I have now upgraded to a gt11 with 1.7 rockers but the engine now sits in storage so no idea of the power increase...

1BADCADDY

Is the issue with the LS6 just the head design? Or is it block strength? I keep reading a stock bottom end is only good for around 550 but what if you put a forged rotating assembly in?

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I haven't really read about block issues, more head design limitations that make cathedral headed motors more expensive to build as power levels increase.

Sssnake

I have an LS2 with LSA (rotocast LS3 + swirl wing) heads. For the money and at the hp levels you are talking about they are hard to beat. If you are willing to pay the weight penalty then an LQ9 is cheaper still (but with the adapter plate engine mount requirement). Also the LQ9 uses the 24X reluctor and valley cover knock sensor locations. This should make it easier on the wiring side of things. You would also be better off with the LQ9 if you see large amounts of spray in your future.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

The issue with the ls6 is the inability to bore. So you can stroke it to 383 but the ls2 you can push to 408. Other than that there is no issue with the block. Also, forging just the rods and Pistons is all you really need. I have seen 346 stock cranks and blocks making 1,000fwhp easy.

The other thing is again bore size in relation to valve size. You can't run the better heads on a smaller than 4" bore. So that alone is the HUGE limitation.

1BADCADDY

Thanks for that info, just what I needed to know. You can get away with a 317 head with stock sized valves correct?

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Let me introduce you to the search function

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...6-ls1-6-a.html


That took me 10-20 seconds.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

That's 9-19 seconds too long.