msd 6010 problem???
10-07-2014, 10:00 PM
#81
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10-07-2014, 10:08 PM
#82
[QUOTE=07sick22;18465192] Put a pair of 37 to 40 squirters on it front and rear and let us know how that does. The great majority of carbed LS engines I know of want a 40 squirter front a rear.
If the model you have has the round glass windows by which to monitor the fuel level in the bowls, I set those just below half way up the window. What number power valve is in the car?
Is it fussy when you are cruising at a sustained speed or just when you are accelerating under a load?
Say if i go to stab it from a 20 roll it will break up and act all retarted for a second or two the same as trying to launch the car and when your just cruising u can hear it kinda like miss from time to time before. When i thought i had an ignition problem on the way home from a 50mile cruise it started acting retarted out of nowhere it started missing, sputtering, poping like crazy barely limped the car back home im linking that to a loose power on the batt till it does that again hopefully thats fixed but it still has the same cruising light miss and btw the squirters are set at 31p and 35s and idel screws are out 1 1/2 turns
Say if i go to stab it from a 20 roll it will break up and act all retarted for a second or two the same as trying to launch the car and when your just cruising u can hear it kinda like miss from time to time before. When i thought i had an ignition problem on the way home from a 50mile cruise it started acting retarted out of nowhere it started missing, sputtering, poping like crazy barely limped the car back home im linking that to a loose power on the batt till it does that again hopefully thats fixed but it still has the same cruising light miss and btw the squirters are set at 31p and 35s and idel screws are out 1 1/2 turns
If the model you have has the round glass windows by which to monitor the fuel level in the bowls, I set those just below half way up the window. What number power valve is in the car?
10-07-2014, 10:15 PM
#83
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[QUOTE=speedtigger;18465210]
Put a pair of 37 to 40 squirters on it front and rear and let us know how that does. The great majority of carbed LS engines I know of want a 40 squirter front a rear.
If the model you have has the round glass windows by which to monitor the fuel level in the bowls, I set those just below half way up the window. What number power valve is in the car? I tried a set of 37 front and rear and it acted worse just trying to accelerate it was popping and breaking up and yes it has the round glass windows ill swap the 37s back in tom and knock the fuel down some in the sight glass and the pv is whatever comes stock in this carb btw hooked a vac gauge up to it and in gear i believe it was 10psi
Put a pair of 37 to 40 squirters on it front and rear and let us know how that does. The great majority of carbed LS engines I know of want a 40 squirter front a rear.
If the model you have has the round glass windows by which to monitor the fuel level in the bowls, I set those just below half way up the window. What number power valve is in the car?
10-07-2014, 10:16 PM
#84
Also, when you change the accelerator pump cams from position 1 to position 2, make sure you re-adjust the arm assembly. Most times when you make that adjustment, it will put clearance or "slack" in the system so that the pump does not squirt right away as soon as the throttle is opened. Make sure there is a slight preload on the pump diaphram so that as soon as you touch the throttle to open it, that the accelerator pump instantly starts to squirt out the nozzle.
10-07-2014, 10:18 PM
#85
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Also, when you change the accelerator pump cams from position 1 to position 2, make sure you re-adjust the arm assembly. Most times when you make that adjustment, it will put clearance or "slack" in the system so that the pump does not squirt right away as soon as the throttle is opened. Make sure there is a slight preload on the pump diaphram so that as soon as you touch the throttle to open it, that the accelerator pump instantly starts to squirt out the nozzle.
10-07-2014, 10:23 PM
#86
Is there any way you can check the temp on your headers at each cylinder? That was another thing it was doing. It had the miss like your talking about off idle. The front and back cylinders were barely firing. You could see it easy with a temp gun. Once we increased the jets and as we went up you could just hear the other cylinders light up. It was pretty cool. Then the temp came up on the headers and the engine temp went down. Now it runs right at 180 and stays there.
10-07-2014, 10:24 PM
#87
I tried a set of 37 front and rear and it acted worse just trying to accelerate it was popping and breaking up and yes it has the round glass windows ill swap the 37s back in tom and knock the fuel down some in the sight glass and the pv is whatever comes stock in this carb btw hooked a vac gauge up to it and in gear i believe it was 10psi
The best way I have found to choose a powervalve is the run the lowest numbered power valve that you can without the vehicle getting fussy, bogging or feeling like you have a lean surge at part throttle and aggressive part throttle. The lower the number the more aggressive throttle opening it will take for it to open. The higher number, less throttle it will take to get it to open and start enrichment (adding fuel). Running to high of a number will make the car overly rich at part throttle. Running too low of a number will make the car lean at part throttle and it will be fussy, bog, surge or cause detonation (spark knock).
10-07-2014, 10:38 PM
#89
[QUOTE=07sick22;18465225]
I tried a set of 37 front and rear and it acted worse just trying to accelerate it was popping and breaking up and yes it has the round glass windows ill swap the 37s back in tom and knock the fuel down some in the sight glass and the pv is whatever comes stock in this carb btw hooked a vac gauge up to it and in gear i believe it was 10psi If you have 10inches of vacuum then you need a 5 power valve.
I tried a set of 37 front and rear and it acted worse just trying to accelerate it was popping and breaking up and yes it has the round glass windows ill swap the 37s back in tom and knock the fuel down some in the sight glass and the pv is whatever comes stock in this carb btw hooked a vac gauge up to it and in gear i believe it was 10psi
10-08-2014, 05:10 AM
#91
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10-08-2014, 05:13 AM
#92
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Is there any way you can check the temp on your headers at each cylinder? That was another thing it was doing. It had the miss like your talking about off idle. The front and back cylinders were barely firing. You could see it easy with a temp gun. Once we increased the jets and as we went up you could just hear the other cylinders light up. It was pretty cool. Then the temp came up on the headers and the engine temp went down. Now it runs right at 180 and stays there.
10-08-2014, 04:30 PM
#93
Thought you had a Ultra HP,. My bad. Looks just like the same carb my son has on his 69 327. Might be a little light for your combo. I would still check your cylinder temps. Have you looked at your spark plugs yet? Does it fart and then come in hard? You may have to drill holes in your throttle plates to get more air in there from idle. Or does that one have the idle ease under where you would screw in the air cleaner like the Ultra HP?
10-08-2014, 06:45 PM
#94
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Thought you had a Ultra HP,. My bad. Looks just like the same carb my son has on his 69 327. Might be a little light for your combo. I would still check your cylinder temps. Have you looked at your spark plugs yet? Does it fart and then come in hard? You may have to drill holes in your throttle plates to get more air in there from idle. Or does that one have the idle ease under where you would screw in the air cleaner like the Ultra HP?
10-08-2014, 08:02 PM
#95
That's why its burning your eyes when its idling. Check out www.hotrodders.com and punch in Holley throttle plate drilling. Very detailed. When you are dealing with a single plane intake like the super victor The lower vacuum can cause a rich condition, you need more air to lean it out a little at idle, so you can stay in the transfer slots for better tuning. You can actually buy another throttle plate with the holes already in it.
10-09-2014, 08:29 AM
#97
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10-09-2014, 04:13 PM
#98
Give our guys here at the shop a shout. We have a few techs that are carb savy and should be able to answer any question you have. Just shoot over an email at support@tickperformance.com and our guys can answer any question you want to ask.
10-09-2014, 05:29 PM
#99
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Give our guys here at the shop a shout. We have a few techs that are carb savy and should be able to answer any question you have. Just shoot over an email at support@tickperformance.com and our guys can answer any question you want to ask.
02-22-2015, 03:36 PM
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Thanks joey and let martin know i appreciate all his help with cam choice and i think i got rid of the breakup out of the hole put a 50cc accel pump kit with the brown pump cam and a 4.5 power valve in the car today, car had 8psi of vaccum at idel in gear and no more stumble out of the hole now im working on low speed cruising it had some breakup problems while cruising down the street and back