Update,with some questions, off idle stumble
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Update,with some questions, off idle stumble
So after figuring my trans plug wasn't seated properly and getting most of the trans codes I was getting, P0740, P0755, P0783 and P1860 cleared, I started getting Code P0758. Started ready a thread that performabuilt responded to about checking resistance from PCM pin to POS wire with battery disconnected. When I went to remove the red cover off the PCM plug I saw that the pin for the one I needed to check wasn't locked in and was have out, hmmm. PLug it in and reset codes, all gone. So finally I have a code free build. Back the car out of the driveway, reverse works great, shift into OD, little gas, stumble, stumble then momentem. Shift into first, gas, stumble stumble, more gas HOLY ****, launch. Damn this thing has some *****. But anyways, I still have an off idle in gear stumble. Nuetral, quickly revs.
The PCm has been mail order tuned, so it should be somewhat on I figure.
When I had the PCM tuned, I had them leave the MAF in the PCM but said to leave it as a stock MAF, well I have a home ported descreened MAF. Would that cause that. It seems to run a little better if I unplug the MAF. So am curious about that.
I'm still waiting on my new alternator to get here, right now I have a dead one, but am also maintaining 11.7 volts while running with a the battery fully charged. Could that cause a stall, having low voltage?
I really wanna run this thing farther down the road, then just a 100 feet, but I'm sceptical since its not street legal (no glass in the car/ taillights work but no lenses etc....) and am worried about it stalling and not starting.
The PCm has been mail order tuned, so it should be somewhat on I figure.
When I had the PCM tuned, I had them leave the MAF in the PCM but said to leave it as a stock MAF, well I have a home ported descreened MAF. Would that cause that. It seems to run a little better if I unplug the MAF. So am curious about that.
I'm still waiting on my new alternator to get here, right now I have a dead one, but am also maintaining 11.7 volts while running with a the battery fully charged. Could that cause a stall, having low voltage?
I really wanna run this thing farther down the road, then just a 100 feet, but I'm sceptical since its not street legal (no glass in the car/ taillights work but no lenses etc....) and am worried about it stalling and not starting.
#2
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I just hooked my battery up tonight to the alternator. When I would crank my car on just 2 fully charged batteries at 12.5 volts it would be ok. Let them go down a little bit and throttle response was ****.
Hook a charger in and instantly would idle better, better throttle response and just all around run better.
Today I ran a 2/0 welding lead from the alternator to the batteries in the back and am now running 14 volts and throttle response is very crisp.
If that dont do it then you could be a little lean on tip in. Mail order tunes are good to crank a car on but not to rely on in my opinion.
I am tuning my self with EFI live and have mine running pretty nice at idle and reving but am waiting to get it on the dyno to tune it wot.
To hard getting a track day where you can make enough passes when you are ready to make a data log and then go change up the tune and its much easier keeping an eye out for knock and lean conditions on the dyno.
Good luck with it.
Hook a charger in and instantly would idle better, better throttle response and just all around run better.
Today I ran a 2/0 welding lead from the alternator to the batteries in the back and am now running 14 volts and throttle response is very crisp.
If that dont do it then you could be a little lean on tip in. Mail order tunes are good to crank a car on but not to rely on in my opinion.
I am tuning my self with EFI live and have mine running pretty nice at idle and reving but am waiting to get it on the dyno to tune it wot.
To hard getting a track day where you can make enough passes when you are ready to make a data log and then go change up the tune and its much easier keeping an eye out for knock and lean conditions on the dyno.
Good luck with it.
#3
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I just hooked my battery up tonight to the alternator. When I would crank my car on just 2 fully charged batteries at 12.5 volts it would be ok. Let them go down a little bit and throttle response was ****.
Hook a charger in and instantly would idle better, better throttle response and just all around run better.
Today I ran a 2/0 welding lead from the alternator to the batteries in the back and am now running 14 volts and throttle response is very crisp.
If that dont do it then you could be a little lean on tip in. Mail order tunes are good to crank a car on but not to rely on in my opinion.
I am tuning my self with EFI live and have mine running pretty nice at idle and reving but am waiting to get it on the dyno to tune it wot.
To hard getting a track day where you can make enough passes when you are ready to make a data log and then go change up the tune and its much easier keeping an eye out for knock and lean conditions on the dyno.
Good luck with it.
Hook a charger in and instantly would idle better, better throttle response and just all around run better.
Today I ran a 2/0 welding lead from the alternator to the batteries in the back and am now running 14 volts and throttle response is very crisp.
If that dont do it then you could be a little lean on tip in. Mail order tunes are good to crank a car on but not to rely on in my opinion.
I am tuning my self with EFI live and have mine running pretty nice at idle and reving but am waiting to get it on the dyno to tune it wot.
To hard getting a track day where you can make enough passes when you are ready to make a data log and then go change up the tune and its much easier keeping an eye out for knock and lean conditions on the dyno.
Good luck with it.
I'll hold off on till I get my new alternator in and see what I have.