ls1 in marine use, connected to sterndrive?
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Dazedcowboy (02-21-2023)
04-23-2014, 08:47 AM
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Any Updates ... I'm doing a bravo 1 , and wondering if anyone has used this ...
http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-27009...ater-pump.aspx
http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-27009...ater-pump.aspx
05-10-2014, 09:31 PM
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pulling engine and parting bird I would love to see pics mounts . Fit layout i just bought a 22 ft seamaster and the old 350 is out of it so i was thinking yank the 6.0 i just put in my 98 and just part the car out. I was just building it to sell it and because its a 6 spd clean fl. Car. I think 6.0 would be a good runner in the boat that would run for years and not as bad on gas as the old school
05-12-2014, 09:08 PM
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Has anyone completed this swap yet? Looking for some help on parts..... I have a 20' Stingray with a Alpha 1 drive. The boat had the 4.3 in it but it is now dead.... I have a LM7 to put in it but not sure what flywheel i need to match up to the Triangle shaped transom plate. Have to buy a new one of those as well since it was really rusty. Can anyone help on this?
06-24-2016, 10:40 PM
#26
LS1 Marine sterndrive G'day mate
I have completed this LS1 conversion into a Donzi 19"foot, replacing the old gutless 307 sb chev.
Sterndrive housed is an old trusty Volvo Penta 280 leg. I know it's not the ideal tough sterndrive but hey - it claimed 25 water speed record in the 1960's while backing chev BBC v8's. Also I seriously don't recommend anything under a Bravo unit from the Mercruiser range either. Do your research as sterndrive repairs are very expensive plus your boat will sink in less than 10 seconds.
Getting back to LS1 conversion : I undertook the entire project myself and apart from small bits and pieces, I managed to solve all the mysteries of getting this motor to run in standalone fashion mostly by myself on a budget.
The showstoppers that I encountered were :
Engine Mounts - used old SB Chev engine mounts teamed up to 12mm stainless LS1 engine plates bolted towards the front 4 mount holes of the LS1. Also used the existing SB mount feet containg dampener.
Boat Mounts - drilled fresh holes and into the boat mounts and glued stainless sandwich plates under the boats side mounts to strengthen the engine mounts thus eliminating any knock and giving me piece of mind when I hit a wave at high speed and became airborne. the mounting feet where therefore bolted thru the boat mounts and torqued against the lower plate which I also tapped out. Note that this major requirement required me to purchase a tall engine crane and replace the ls1 several times and completely bolt motor/bellhousing/sterndrive in order to find and mark its precise sitting position. In effect I lost much sleep thinking this stage out properly locating & tapping the mounting bolt holes, but this ensured no more headaches.
Bellhousing - I originally purchases 3 bellhousing in vein as they created spacing issues and sterndrive's driveshaft teeth did not team up far enough thru the teeth of the driveplate (purchased from Kincaid Marine) which is bolted upto the 14" flywheel. In the end I found a cast 360degree bellhousing from Bruce and Mark at Tawco Marine. My Volvo Penta 280 sterndrive dictates that the perfect belhousing for my needs was 90-95mm depth. Another smart move with bellhousings is to holesaw a 20mm hole on the top of the bellhousing so you can visually see the teeth slide into the correct position of the driveplate as you are attempting to bolt engine to sterndrive.
ECU- Sam of Chev Offroad Marine Engines in Moorabbin reprogrammed my existing ECU for $100 using a trusty off the shelf tune thus eliminating expensive dynotune. ECU is now maffless, and standalone, plus its got an aggressive fuel map and ignition retards and unused PID's are all switched off. Guess how much $$$ and headaches I saved here !
Loom - did the whole job myself over afew hours one night using these Youtube clips :
"How To: 4 Wire LS Wiring Harness Conversion, Part 1"
"LSx Swap Harness How To Simple & Free DIY Standalone on the Test Stand"
and this :
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/98pinpcm.htm .... or just google "LS1 stand alone Loom wiring diagram"
In the end I just plugged the new loom leads into the existing wiring loom using the trusty 6 wire method.
Oil Sump - bought an extra deep rear baffled Oil sump from ebay. I recommend either an aftermarket pressed sump or a LS truck sump. It also comes with a Oil temp sensor. Also replaced the hard to reach oil sump plug by retrofitting a banjo adaptor sinver soldered to a long copper 10mm tube which is easy to access thus making oil changes a breeze, since its impossible to reach the conventional oil sump plug. Smart Thinkling 99 !
Oil Filter - relocated using a cheap LS1 Oil Filter relocation plate from ebay
I run a Volvo Penta 280 leg.
Heat Exchanger - very important if you plan to use boat in salt water. i purchased afew second hand duds which leaked. Dimensions should be at least 100mm diameter x 500mm lenth if you have any chance of keeping engine cool. I kept all the existing water pump, alterator and pulleys, plus I mounted a power steering pump dummy pulley (thanks ebay) and mounted the external salt water pump via crank drive purchased from Kincaid Marine.
In essence I mimicked the cooling system including overflow bottle as used in my LS1 powered holden commodore.
Marine Exhausts - purchased 3" side bolt exhausts from Tawco Marine (note Kincaid Marine sell the 2" version) and teamed upto existing Rolco risers - easy! I favoured the 3" version as my LS1 cruises at 5000rpm and didn't weant to create backpressure bottlenecks. My research found that No catalytic converter required in Australian shores and waterways......
But to wet your appetite further, just google "ïmage LS1 marine exhaust".
Fuel Pump - Plan-A is a std in tank Holden commodore v8 fuel pump wired by local auto elec. Plan-B is an external pump as recommended by eagle Auto marine, so with a flick of a switch I've overcome my distrust or electric fuel pump issues. Fuel connectors replumped by Enzed Moorabbin.
Diagnostics - I chose Foxwell's NT'510 ODB2 scantool (thanks ebay), plus it doubles up as a scantool for all systems on every car engine around me and all my mate's cars. Plus I replace dead sensors on a timely basis and have a boat that's trustworthy.
ODB2 plug - I purchased a cheap wireless wifi ELM327 obd2 dongle from ebay , downloaded the Torque app on my smartphone, so now I have a virtual dashboard (including gps speed) without the need to purchase and install more gauges. but I still want to see these : coolant temp, exhaust temp, rpm, engine stall light, volts and Amps loading, Oil pressure, Oil Temp and both these last 2 are backed up with a load audible warning buzzers if they fall under thresholds while ignorantly screaming thru the water at deafening speeds. cheap insurance.
So ........my message to anyone interested undertaking such a conversion is that you don't need to be a talented rocket scientist to complete this project - just a willingness to apply yourself and learn something new and fun. I used to be an ol school v8 fan, now I'm a hardened LSx fan, what I have outlined is really not that hard.'Plus the good thing about these LS1 engines is that it only cost me $1000, so if it dies, i can easily retrofit another as they are so common and quite cheap. And how can you ignore the fact that they are factory firtted with everything you've ever wanted in a hotted up and worked v8, such as a roller cam, decent torqey stroke, all alloy 199kg lightness, EFI, awesome ignition, great flowing heads, reliability, smoothness, predictable linear power curve, an attractive cutting edge engine bay etc etc ... all this from a stock engine.
I luv LS1's !!!!!!
any questions, happy to answer
ouzo
LS1 Donzi speed boat topping 136 gps kph
LS1 VT SS, 13.8quarter mile at calder
LS1 buggy
LS1 tractor
plus other lesser toys
I have completed this LS1 conversion into a Donzi 19"foot, replacing the old gutless 307 sb chev.
Sterndrive housed is an old trusty Volvo Penta 280 leg. I know it's not the ideal tough sterndrive but hey - it claimed 25 water speed record in the 1960's while backing chev BBC v8's. Also I seriously don't recommend anything under a Bravo unit from the Mercruiser range either. Do your research as sterndrive repairs are very expensive plus your boat will sink in less than 10 seconds.
Getting back to LS1 conversion : I undertook the entire project myself and apart from small bits and pieces, I managed to solve all the mysteries of getting this motor to run in standalone fashion mostly by myself on a budget.
The showstoppers that I encountered were :
Engine Mounts - used old SB Chev engine mounts teamed up to 12mm stainless LS1 engine plates bolted towards the front 4 mount holes of the LS1. Also used the existing SB mount feet containg dampener.
Boat Mounts - drilled fresh holes and into the boat mounts and glued stainless sandwich plates under the boats side mounts to strengthen the engine mounts thus eliminating any knock and giving me piece of mind when I hit a wave at high speed and became airborne. the mounting feet where therefore bolted thru the boat mounts and torqued against the lower plate which I also tapped out. Note that this major requirement required me to purchase a tall engine crane and replace the ls1 several times and completely bolt motor/bellhousing/sterndrive in order to find and mark its precise sitting position. In effect I lost much sleep thinking this stage out properly locating & tapping the mounting bolt holes, but this ensured no more headaches.
Bellhousing - I originally purchases 3 bellhousing in vein as they created spacing issues and sterndrive's driveshaft teeth did not team up far enough thru the teeth of the driveplate (purchased from Kincaid Marine) which is bolted upto the 14" flywheel. In the end I found a cast 360degree bellhousing from Bruce and Mark at Tawco Marine. My Volvo Penta 280 sterndrive dictates that the perfect belhousing for my needs was 90-95mm depth. Another smart move with bellhousings is to holesaw a 20mm hole on the top of the bellhousing so you can visually see the teeth slide into the correct position of the driveplate as you are attempting to bolt engine to sterndrive.
ECU- Sam of Chev Offroad Marine Engines in Moorabbin reprogrammed my existing ECU for $100 using a trusty off the shelf tune thus eliminating expensive dynotune. ECU is now maffless, and standalone, plus its got an aggressive fuel map and ignition retards and unused PID's are all switched off. Guess how much $$$ and headaches I saved here !
Loom - did the whole job myself over afew hours one night using these Youtube clips :
"How To: 4 Wire LS Wiring Harness Conversion, Part 1"
"LSx Swap Harness How To Simple & Free DIY Standalone on the Test Stand"
and this :
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/98pinpcm.htm .... or just google "LS1 stand alone Loom wiring diagram"
In the end I just plugged the new loom leads into the existing wiring loom using the trusty 6 wire method.
Oil Sump - bought an extra deep rear baffled Oil sump from ebay. I recommend either an aftermarket pressed sump or a LS truck sump. It also comes with a Oil temp sensor. Also replaced the hard to reach oil sump plug by retrofitting a banjo adaptor sinver soldered to a long copper 10mm tube which is easy to access thus making oil changes a breeze, since its impossible to reach the conventional oil sump plug. Smart Thinkling 99 !
Oil Filter - relocated using a cheap LS1 Oil Filter relocation plate from ebay
I run a Volvo Penta 280 leg.
Heat Exchanger - very important if you plan to use boat in salt water. i purchased afew second hand duds which leaked. Dimensions should be at least 100mm diameter x 500mm lenth if you have any chance of keeping engine cool. I kept all the existing water pump, alterator and pulleys, plus I mounted a power steering pump dummy pulley (thanks ebay) and mounted the external salt water pump via crank drive purchased from Kincaid Marine.
In essence I mimicked the cooling system including overflow bottle as used in my LS1 powered holden commodore.
Marine Exhausts - purchased 3" side bolt exhausts from Tawco Marine (note Kincaid Marine sell the 2" version) and teamed upto existing Rolco risers - easy! I favoured the 3" version as my LS1 cruises at 5000rpm and didn't weant to create backpressure bottlenecks. My research found that No catalytic converter required in Australian shores and waterways......
But to wet your appetite further, just google "ïmage LS1 marine exhaust".
Fuel Pump - Plan-A is a std in tank Holden commodore v8 fuel pump wired by local auto elec. Plan-B is an external pump as recommended by eagle Auto marine, so with a flick of a switch I've overcome my distrust or electric fuel pump issues. Fuel connectors replumped by Enzed Moorabbin.
Diagnostics - I chose Foxwell's NT'510 ODB2 scantool (thanks ebay), plus it doubles up as a scantool for all systems on every car engine around me and all my mate's cars. Plus I replace dead sensors on a timely basis and have a boat that's trustworthy.
ODB2 plug - I purchased a cheap wireless wifi ELM327 obd2 dongle from ebay , downloaded the Torque app on my smartphone, so now I have a virtual dashboard (including gps speed) without the need to purchase and install more gauges. but I still want to see these : coolant temp, exhaust temp, rpm, engine stall light, volts and Amps loading, Oil pressure, Oil Temp and both these last 2 are backed up with a load audible warning buzzers if they fall under thresholds while ignorantly screaming thru the water at deafening speeds. cheap insurance.
So ........my message to anyone interested undertaking such a conversion is that you don't need to be a talented rocket scientist to complete this project - just a willingness to apply yourself and learn something new and fun. I used to be an ol school v8 fan, now I'm a hardened LSx fan, what I have outlined is really not that hard.'Plus the good thing about these LS1 engines is that it only cost me $1000, so if it dies, i can easily retrofit another as they are so common and quite cheap. And how can you ignore the fact that they are factory firtted with everything you've ever wanted in a hotted up and worked v8, such as a roller cam, decent torqey stroke, all alloy 199kg lightness, EFI, awesome ignition, great flowing heads, reliability, smoothness, predictable linear power curve, an attractive cutting edge engine bay etc etc ... all this from a stock engine.
I luv LS1's !!!!!!
any questions, happy to answer
ouzo
LS1 Donzi speed boat topping 136 gps kph
LS1 VT SS, 13.8quarter mile at calder
LS1 buggy
LS1 tractor
plus other lesser toys
The following users liked this post:
Dazedcowboy (02-21-2023)
The following users liked this post:
Dazedcowboy (02-21-2023)
The following users liked this post:
Dazedcowboy (02-21-2023)
08-24-2016, 05:41 PM
#29
I see this is back from the dead.
I haven't done one of these yet, but spin wrenches on mercruiser stuff as part of my dayjob.
The merc bellhousing will work
You will need to use the spacer from a 4l80e flexplate to get the flywheel out to where it needs to be. Merc uses a manual trans flywheel, and bolts the engine coupler to that (alpha drives use a 3 bolt triangle shape plate, bravo's use a 6 bolt round plate)
Alpha drives are only rated for 300 hp(when new) They will live with more, if treated gently.
I haven't done one of these yet, but spin wrenches on mercruiser stuff as part of my dayjob.
The merc bellhousing will work
You will need to use the spacer from a 4l80e flexplate to get the flywheel out to where it needs to be. Merc uses a manual trans flywheel, and bolts the engine coupler to that (alpha drives use a 3 bolt triangle shape plate, bravo's use a 6 bolt round plate)
Alpha drives are only rated for 300 hp(when new) They will live with more, if treated gently.
08-24-2016, 08:55 PM
#30
I have read folks using alphas with over 400 but avoiding hole shots. If I could use an alpha drive, re-use my current closed loop fuel system, this swap would go pretty smooth. The triangle shaped couple, do you just have to drill a flexplate for it? Or is there a part number that you can order that would actually fit it with the spacer?
08-25-2016, 06:05 PM
#31
you need to run a manual trans flywheel.
The bell-housing and coupler is designed for the original chevy spacing from crank the bell-housing mounting surface. The spacer used on 4l80e trannys gives you this spacing.
You could have a machine shop to redrill your original flywheel to the ls crank bolt pattern.
Or have an ls flywheel machined for the coupler bolt pattern or you may get lucky and the bolt pattern in the coupler will work with an ls flywheel. I don't know if the ring gear, and starter would ever be able to mesh if done this way though
The bell-housing and coupler is designed for the original chevy spacing from crank the bell-housing mounting surface. The spacer used on 4l80e trannys gives you this spacing.
You could have a machine shop to redrill your original flywheel to the ls crank bolt pattern.
Or have an ls flywheel machined for the coupler bolt pattern or you may get lucky and the bolt pattern in the coupler will work with an ls flywheel. I don't know if the ring gear, and starter would ever be able to mesh if done this way though
08-26-2016, 03:56 AM
#33
You could try the sachs 1050 flywheel. It's 0.4" thicker, so spacing should be the same. It's also drilled for n 11" BBC Mark IV clutch. I'm more familiar with the old school TRS/Speedmaster stuff that uses a trans, but I think the drive plate used on those will bolt up.
you need to run a manual trans flywheel.
The bell-housing and coupler is designed for the original chevy spacing from crank the bell-housing mounting surface. The spacer used on 4l80e trannys gives you this spacing.
You could have a machine shop to redrill your original flywheel to the ls crank bolt pattern.
Or have an ls flywheel machined for the coupler bolt pattern or you may get lucky and the bolt pattern in the coupler will work with an ls flywheel. I don't know if the ring gear, and starter would ever be able to mesh if done this way though
The bell-housing and coupler is designed for the original chevy spacing from crank the bell-housing mounting surface. The spacer used on 4l80e trannys gives you this spacing.
You could have a machine shop to redrill your original flywheel to the ls crank bolt pattern.
Or have an ls flywheel machined for the coupler bolt pattern or you may get lucky and the bolt pattern in the coupler will work with an ls flywheel. I don't know if the ring gear, and starter would ever be able to mesh if done this way though
08-11-2018, 10:14 PM
#35
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Im looking for the gaskets for the elbows you have would you plz tell me where you got yours
10-30-2018, 09:27 PM
#37
https://marineenginedepot.com/MP/Mar....2L-(LS3-LSA)/
That is even cheaper than I bought them for.... and I had to buy 2 sets! If memory serves me right the place I got them from was either in WA or OR.
11-06-2018, 07:36 AM
#38
I can't remember the part number for the FI switch, I'll try to remember to look for it later today.
11-06-2018, 07:38 AM
#39
I'm assuming you're talking about the riser when you say elbows. The "elbows" are the aluminum joints between the riser and the y pipe on a Mercruiser.
Use the V-6 elbows with the marine power manifolds on a mercruiser swap. I had difficulty using the V-8 elbows..there just wasn't enough room between the riser outlet and the y pipe. V-6 elbows work great.
I bought both the PCM manifolds and the Marine Power manifolds, and in the interim adapted some center outlet block hugger stainless headers.. The PCM manifolds are cast iron and very heavy. The Marine Power manifolds are aluminum and weigh a lot less. The overall quality of the PCM manifolds seems better than the MP manifolds. I used the headers and a wide band O-2 to tune the fuel map, then swapped in the MP manifolds.
Use the V-6 elbows with the marine power manifolds on a mercruiser swap. I had difficulty using the V-8 elbows..there just wasn't enough room between the riser outlet and the y pipe. V-6 elbows work great.
I bought both the PCM manifolds and the Marine Power manifolds, and in the interim adapted some center outlet block hugger stainless headers.. The PCM manifolds are cast iron and very heavy. The Marine Power manifolds are aluminum and weigh a lot less. The overall quality of the PCM manifolds seems better than the MP manifolds. I used the headers and a wide band O-2 to tune the fuel map, then swapped in the MP manifolds.
Last edited by squared; 11-06-2018 at 07:46 AM.
