neal64ss

iTrader: (1)

I am very proud of the dash. I thought it would be very difficult but only took me a couple of hours start to finish.

jonnyNITRO

Read through the post. Great info and thanks for explaining the issues you had and how you did the workarounds.
One question I had was, I noticed that you are not using the standard fuseblock from the new motor. How did you bypass that with those with relays and fuses of your own. How did you know which wire connected to what on the other end of all that mess?
Please clarify... if you have any free time.

Thanks.

rohrt

Neal if your still around I was just wondering a few things. Hopefully I didn't miss it.

What engine mounts did you uses? I realized you modified them. In what direction did you go from a zero off set?
What did you do for a tranny cross memeber?

I want to know more about the cruis control?

You mentioned that you removed the wiring for the A/C. If you added a vintage air system can that be added as a stand alone system?

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

Hello Rohrt, I believe he used the 1" setback mounts. I used the dingo mounts on my swap and they worked well if you have a pan that fits nicely. I ended up keeping my ls1 F-body pan and notched my cross-member on my swap. I swapped in a T-56 trans and was able to use the factory trans cross-member. I'm sure you can use it with an auto as well, but you may have to flip the mounting tab over.

Good luck with the swap!

rockoosi1

iTrader: (1)

I'm doing one of these swaps for my buddy using the GM muscle car pan but the center steering link hits really bad. How did you mange to get around this problem? I have the engine sitting in the original location BTW. Thanks!

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

I recommend changing pans. The muscle car pan will sit extremely low in a chevelle (below the crossmember) and can get damaged easily. The pan in this build is made by Mast. I ended up using an F-body pan on my build and notched my crossmember to get it to fit nicely.

If you must use the pan you have then you can raise your frame side mounts up a bit by using some plate steel.

neal64ss

iTrader: (1)

Used short wide mounts and LS adapter plates that I modified slightly to work for me.

Cruise control is a 4 wire hook up to an aftermarket switch as long as you use the DBW throttle body. I think I found a good explanation of this on LT1swap.com.

The vintage air system can be ran as standalone as far as I know, and I plan to do this eventually.

neal64ss

iTrader: (1)

Using the mast pan will give you the best clearance, but I still have minor steering linkage interference at full turn due to the fact that my install is very low compared to most as I was having trouble getting clearance on the tranny tunnel and did not want to cut on the tranny tunnel.

neal64ss

iTrader: (1)

I spent about a month of my free time studying the chevelle wiring diagram and the donor truck wiring diagram and also compared these to what everyone on LS1tech had posted worked for them. Each swap is a little bit different and I had to learn a lot before I started on mine.