mulletnotch

iTrader: (2)

Get your hands on a set of 2010 Camaro manifolds or some manifolds out of a G8 GT, they sit nice and close to the head/block and can be flipped forward AND up to work very well for boosted application - can also point them down and forward with the outlets being MUCH closer to the heads than the truck manifolds...

Love the car. Always wanted to build me a sleeper volvo.

skyhighsami

iTrader: (8)

I gave him some manifolds from a C6.

celicaxx

iTrader: (2)

I found a solution to the clearance issue: v-bands

the C6 manifolds dumped close to the center, which would not work on the driver's side. I think the new configuration will work well when I get LS1 waterpump and alt/PS brackets

celicaxx

iTrader: (2)

that's a great idea. I don't have much of an imagination, so this is what I came up with:

celicaxx

iTrader: (2)

fitment on the truck alternator configuration has me surprised........it actually fits

sikbrik

Nice! Are those stock volvo mounts? Yikes! Broke a few of those with my 4 banger.

It's actually what I have mocked up though, too, except C6 pedestals instead of fabbed engine mount brackets. Same clearance at alternator and even truck intake clears with canister purge removed and front "beauty cover" boss cut down.
Im not turbo'ing so cts-v manifolds seem to fit.

Is your engine offset to one side at all, or centered exactly?

celicaxx

iTrader: (2)

It's centered as best as i can tell. The crossmember is misleading, looks like it's not centered. I'm centering everthing on the radiator support and a notch on the firewall.

Jimbo1367

I would be careful once you first get it running with the hood closed. Not much at all. Might be a good idea to run a pc of tape across the fenders and rev the engine to see how close the alt gets to it. Remember to minus the thickness of the hood at its location. I just know with my luck. I'd create a unwanted hood bulge.

The crossmember looks well thought out and great welds. Keep the pics/updates coming.

Jim

celicaxx

iTrader: (2)

i might run a cowl induction hood

sikbrik

I had to have the truck pan sitting ON the crossmember/rack/swaybar to enable me to use the truck intake/alternator. The MAST oil pan gave me almost 3/4" of clearance to these items with a slightly lower mounting height. It's about 1" shallower all the way back to the sump, which is also shallow enough to not hang down way below the crossmember. Not cheap, but worth it for my daily driver, I think.

I wouldn't be against using a cowl hood if mine was going to be as fast as yours.

Are you going to (able to) run the stock steering linkage?

celicaxx

iTrader: (2)

everything clears, especially with the manifolds flipped up. that was the main reason I inverted them was to clear the linkage and brake booster.

mikezohsix

you can see some of how I mounted a LS1 in my V90 (965) on this thread..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...w-ls1-t56.html

I had another thread for motor mounts a while back that you can search for.

sikbrik

I know this is a track car but FYI, the Hitachi A/C compressor that came on my 05 truck engine allows you to use cheap adapters and retain the stock volvo A/C hoses with no other mods. I found a set for $30, which was worth it for my dd. Just google GM hitachi compressor adapters and you'll find numerous sources.

Just figured I'd put that info out there since you said your wife might drive it once in a while. ;-)

DiscerningZ32

That is going to surprise A LOT of people.

E36LUVA

"Subscribed" This was my first car and always wanted to put a 5.0 in mine back then.

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

cool build

EasyZ06

iTrader: (2)

Such an awesome build! Ive always been a sucker for volvo's. Subscribed

celicaxx

iTrader: (2)

Just got back from a two week trip to Puerto Rico, so the car hasn't got much love for the last three or four weeks.

I'm still waiting on parts, and I'm finding new problems daily. One thing I'm concerned about is the water pump housing. I want to pull out the steel pipes (upper WP outlet and the two heater lines) to install 90 degree barbed fittings. I'm not sure if this is a good idea; i'll either have to tap threads for the fittings or weld them.

Here's the clearance issue with the throttlebody:





also haven't figure out which route to go with the alternator and idler pulley

bought some 83lb injectors last night; a little more than what I need, but the AEM should be able to get them to idle well.

camaroboricua

iTrader: (23)

so how was the trip?

look for 5.3 el camino build on conversions. he found an good fix for the pump issue. Im going to use a car pump with spacers.

sikbrik

I was under the impression you could use the car pump and just press the car pulley off and the truck pulley back on and you're golden with no spacers. I'm probably wrong.

There's a 1/2" throttle body spacer available...that might help a bit, and I've seen a ton of guys just turn the neck about 45 more degrees for clearance. There's another few on here that plug that upper neck hole and drill/tap the front hole to make their truck pump basically have the car outlet.

Good luck! I'm sure you'll work it out successfully. The quik alternator bracket for the truck setup looks nice!