gauge of metal for custom frame mounts
#1
gauge of metal for custom frame mounts
I finally got the itch to work on the car again, and instead of trying to add washers, spacer, drilling new holes in the frame, ect, I did what I should have done in the first place and make my own frame mounts.
I did this one up just as a template, as I had planned on doing it in 1/4" steel plate, but wonder if 1/8" would be a safe choice? My mig pak 10 is at it's limit with this plate steel, and would need to tack up the 1/4" plate and tack it up, then bring it to school to stick weld it.
As you can see in this next picture, part of it hangs off the back of the subframe unsupported, and am now thinking about adding another 1/8" plate behind it that has holes, weld one plate to the other by filling in the holes and around the outside border.
I will be adding some hollow round stock between the uprights to have the bolt pass through, but that is only on an otherwise finished piece.
What do you think? Should I add another 1/8" plate on the back, add the hollow round stock and call it good? Or would it be unwise and just use the 1/4" plate?
I did this one up just as a template, as I had planned on doing it in 1/4" steel plate, but wonder if 1/8" would be a safe choice? My mig pak 10 is at it's limit with this plate steel, and would need to tack up the 1/4" plate and tack it up, then bring it to school to stick weld it.
As you can see in this next picture, part of it hangs off the back of the subframe unsupported, and am now thinking about adding another 1/8" plate behind it that has holes, weld one plate to the other by filling in the holes and around the outside border.
I will be adding some hollow round stock between the uprights to have the bolt pass through, but that is only on an otherwise finished piece.
What do you think? Should I add another 1/8" plate on the back, add the hollow round stock and call it good? Or would it be unwise and just use the 1/4" plate?
#6
I boxed it in on the front and back, but have yet to do the hollow round stock, but may not do it to this mount. It will do the job, but looks so-so, I just got the hang of getting my welds to look good again at the end. Needed to get away from stick welding and back into wire feed.
Will see what they have laying around at school including the hollow round stock and in what size in 1/4" plate and decide where to go from there
Thanks to all who replied
Will see what they have laying around at school including the hollow round stock and in what size in 1/4" plate and decide where to go from there
Thanks to all who replied
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (22)
Id make a new one from 1/4" plate
First, 1/8" is pretty weak and it's holding 600ish lbs of engine plus engine torque
Next, your welds have poor penetration. Multiple cap passes wont strengthen it which is the bulk of the weld mass shown
Turn up the heat until you're just about to blow through and try it again. Next time use a single gusset in the middle that goes all the way up to the sleeve. The current design still allows the hole tips to flex. 1/4" for the base plate and hole sides is ideal. You can use 1/8" for the internal gusset and tube sleeve
First, 1/8" is pretty weak and it's holding 600ish lbs of engine plus engine torque
Next, your welds have poor penetration. Multiple cap passes wont strengthen it which is the bulk of the weld mass shown
Turn up the heat until you're just about to blow through and try it again. Next time use a single gusset in the middle that goes all the way up to the sleeve. The current design still allows the hole tips to flex. 1/4" for the base plate and hole sides is ideal. You can use 1/8" for the internal gusset and tube sleeve
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#8
^^^ agreed, looks like there was alot of popping going on, the metal looks hot around the welds though pretty equal. what size stick are you using?
anyways yes make new ones. multiple things can be so so on a ls1 swap and be ok, but i wouldnt let those be the mounts to hold it in. I used 3/8" plate with 5/16 tabs. didnt feel the need for anymore gussting but yes the tube would be a great idea.
patience man, welding can be tons of fun when you get it down. use a mig if your more comfortable
anyways yes make new ones. multiple things can be so so on a ls1 swap and be ok, but i wouldnt let those be the mounts to hold it in. I used 3/8" plate with 5/16 tabs. didnt feel the need for anymore gussting but yes the tube would be a great idea.
patience man, welding can be tons of fun when you get it down. use a mig if your more comfortable
#9
The little Mig Pak 10 I have, the stick welder is at school, and have only one more class, so one last chance to use it. I will cut up and tack weld the mounts in 1/4" plate, and bring them to class and use 6010 for a root pass, then do a cover pass in 7018.
thanks guys
thanks guys
#12
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
Take a cue from the factory and note that your factory stands are 3/16" steel. Most good motor mounts are made from 3/16" steel too.
I would use 3/16" and reinforce it as you have in your prototype. In fact, that is exactly what I did. Here is a photo of mine before it was cleaned and painted:
I would use 3/16" and reinforce it as you have in your prototype. In fact, that is exactly what I did. Here is a photo of mine before it was cleaned and painted:
#13
Going to cut it all up, tack weld it and bring it to school and see what happens.
thanks again guys
ps
speedtiger, that is where I got the idea was from you. My original design was way overly complicated, and after I had seen yours, well, the KISS idea kicked in
#15
I am going to add in the hollow round stock after I get done welding the rest. Here is the one side tacked up waiting to be welded.
#16
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1/8" plate is too thin. 3/16 is ok. 1/4" not necessary but if you must...
#17
That tall gusset is a BAD idea. In order for the bolt to generate clamp load it has to compress the sleeve and stretch the bolt. The gusset will prevent that from happening and you will end up with a loose bolt over time. I used to design perches for leaf springs at the Big 3. Fully gusseting like you did was a big no, no. Look under a truck and watch how they design leaf spring brackets...
1/8" plate is too thin. 3/16 is ok. 1/4" not necessary but if you must...
1/8" plate is too thin. 3/16 is ok. 1/4" not necessary but if you must...
thanks again
edit: also, wouldn't the clamping force come from the engine mount? I will post a pic in a second. If you notice the ears from the motor mount spread outward, and would it not provide a clamping force when the bolt tightens down? If I am wrong, please let me know what would be a good choice before I mess things up...... more
Last edited by billsnogo; 04-13-2011 at 04:32 PM.
#19
he was seeing the mount sdrawkcab ( backwards) lol like a leaf spring perch the leaf bushing goes between the mounts you made, not on the outside.
i know what he is talking about and he is right!! but not here, no worries.
you should grind a 45 bevel on the bottom of each peice being welded. will assist penetration and you can fill it in with weld. you should weld perpindicular peices without a bevel. the mounts look good imo otherwise. use a nice wire brush too to clean the metal up and get that coating off of it. you wont get that spatter or popping as you might how it is now.
cant wait to see it man
i know what he is talking about and he is right!! but not here, no worries.
you should grind a 45 bevel on the bottom of each peice being welded. will assist penetration and you can fill it in with weld. you should weld perpindicular peices without a bevel. the mounts look good imo otherwise. use a nice wire brush too to clean the metal up and get that coating off of it. you wont get that spatter or popping as you might how it is now.
cant wait to see it man