LY6 with 6L90E in 72 Chevelle
#101
"I could be wrong, but I thought the BCM was needed for the TU/TD function?"
I think you can add the Corvette "tune" to the transmission control module and bypass the BCM for tu/td. I have ordered the Speedhut gauges and will be using the orange/black wire going to pin 71 on the E38 ecm to feed the VSS signal to the speedometer. Did you use pin 48 on the E38 for your tach signal?
I think you can add the Corvette "tune" to the transmission control module and bypass the BCM for tu/td. I have ordered the Speedhut gauges and will be using the orange/black wire going to pin 71 on the E38 ecm to feed the VSS signal to the speedometer. Did you use pin 48 on the E38 for your tach signal?
#102
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I think I need a BCM to get cruise control functioning so that is still the route I'll probably take.
As far as the tach signal, I just tied into my #1 cylinder coil ground signal and everything works great. With the Speedhut tach you have to go through a little programming to let it know that you have 8 coils but it's really pretty simple.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
As far as the tach signal, I just tied into my #1 cylinder coil ground signal and everything works great. With the Speedhut tach you have to go through a little programming to let it know that you have 8 coils but it's really pretty simple.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
#103
TECH Fanatic
I think I need a BCM to get cruise control functioning so that is still the route I'll probably take.
As far as the tach signal, I just tied into my #1 cylinder coil ground signal and everything works great. With the Speedhut tach you have to go through a little programming to let it know that you have 8 coils but it's really pretty simple.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
As far as the tach signal, I just tied into my #1 cylinder coil ground signal and everything works great. With the Speedhut tach you have to go through a little programming to let it know that you have 8 coils but it's really pretty simple.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
And you can get a interface to run CC with out the BCM as well. They are not sponsors here but I can give you the contact info.
But if you have a the BCM and wiring be easy enough to run it though.
#104
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I do have a bcm but I am also interested in the contact info for the cruise control. I had done some research earlier and I couldn't find anything aftermarket that was compatible with the 6L's. I did find TUTD products but none for the CC.
#105
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I haven't posted in a while and I probably should have right after the fact, but I did take the car to the track to see what it would do. It was the first time I ever ran the 1/4 mile so I wasn't real sure what to expect or even how to drive the car on the track. I drove it there, registered, passed inspection, walked around a bit to get a feel for it then hopped in line. Street tires and all, I ended up with my best pass being 13.41 @ 102mph which isn't great but I didn't think it was too bad considering how much fun it is for a street car that gets nearly 22mpgs. If I could get it to stick I think I could break into the 12's.
Does this sound like realistic numbers or should I be expecting more?
Does this sound like realistic numbers or should I be expecting more?
#107
"Does this sound like realistic numbers or should I be expecting more"
With street tires you probably are not hooking up very well. Drag radials should get you into the 12's. Also the torque converter plays a big role. What size torque converter are you running?
With street tires you probably are not hooking up very well. Drag radials should get you into the 12's. Also the torque converter plays a big role. What size torque converter are you running?
Last edited by 1989GTA; 12-15-2014 at 04:52 PM.
#109
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Have you checked your fuel pressure with that pump setup? I'm running the same thing and was getting a rich code on both banks. When I checked my fuel pressure, it was up around 68. I tried another fuel filter/regulator, but it stayed the same. I ended pulling the pump assembly and disassembled the return side. Found it to drop down to about 1/8" opening inn the plastic housing (if I remember correctly, almost looked like some kind of spring loaded back-flow preventer). I opened that hole up and my pressure returned to normal and no more codes from my Frost tune.
Just a thought. Might improve your mileage even more.
Just a thought. Might improve your mileage even more.
#110
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zcrz-I am running the stock truck throttle body with no hiccups and pretty decent performance as of right now.
89-You're right, I'm not hooking up at all with the street tires and I really need to feather the throttle on the start so I can keep the burnout to a minimum. I would like to try some drag radials but I don't really want to spend the money on them because I don't plan on racing it too often but who knows, I might catch the bug and want to do it all the time.
My torque converter is the stock one out of the truck. I guess that is something else I could look into but I don't want to sacrifice drive-ability for a few tenths on my quarter mile time.
usc- I haven't checked my fuel pressure lately but I do know that when I was trying to get it running I had 58-60 psi and so far I don't have any trouble codes. I do have the car put away for the winter but I'll put that on my list to check when I do take it out.
One thing I would like to do to it this winter is change the headers just because the ones that I have on it hang too low. They are meant for a 2010 Camaro and I bought them with the hopes that I could make them work because the price was right and they were stainless which is another bonus. They do flow well but with raising the engine 1-3/8" I still only have about 3-1/2" to 4" of ground clearance. I'm not sure that I'll be able to use any standard A-body LS Swap Longtubes because of raising the engine the 1-3/8" that I needed to install the ones that I have. I'm afraid I'll be too close to the floorpans if they are made for the stock location. Anyone have any experiences like this or dimensions from the top of the collector to the floor? Or should I just go with some shorty block huggers and be done with it?
89-You're right, I'm not hooking up at all with the street tires and I really need to feather the throttle on the start so I can keep the burnout to a minimum. I would like to try some drag radials but I don't really want to spend the money on them because I don't plan on racing it too often but who knows, I might catch the bug and want to do it all the time.
My torque converter is the stock one out of the truck. I guess that is something else I could look into but I don't want to sacrifice drive-ability for a few tenths on my quarter mile time.
usc- I haven't checked my fuel pressure lately but I do know that when I was trying to get it running I had 58-60 psi and so far I don't have any trouble codes. I do have the car put away for the winter but I'll put that on my list to check when I do take it out.
One thing I would like to do to it this winter is change the headers just because the ones that I have on it hang too low. They are meant for a 2010 Camaro and I bought them with the hopes that I could make them work because the price was right and they were stainless which is another bonus. They do flow well but with raising the engine 1-3/8" I still only have about 3-1/2" to 4" of ground clearance. I'm not sure that I'll be able to use any standard A-body LS Swap Longtubes because of raising the engine the 1-3/8" that I needed to install the ones that I have. I'm afraid I'll be too close to the floorpans if they are made for the stock location. Anyone have any experiences like this or dimensions from the top of the collector to the floor? Or should I just go with some shorty block huggers and be done with it?
#111
"My torque converter is the stock one out of the truck. I guess that is something else I could look into but I don't want to sacrifice drive-ability for a few tenths on my quarter mile time."
I understand where you are coming from but the new torque converters are not that bad at all. I have had a number of different ones plus they still lock up at speed. I bought a Yank SS3200 for my L92/6L80E conversion. I bet it will not be much different than the stock one in drive ability. Plus it will knock off some weight.
I understand where you are coming from but the new torque converters are not that bad at all. I have had a number of different ones plus they still lock up at speed. I bought a Yank SS3200 for my L92/6L80E conversion. I bet it will not be much different than the stock one in drive ability. Plus it will knock off some weight.
#115
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Finally got a few nice days here in WI so I got to take the car out for a ride. I'm very happy with the new gears (3.36). I gained about 300 rpms @ 70mph and it seems to get there quicker than it did with the 3.73's. I'll have to get a few miles on it before I check my mileage because I can't seem to keep my foot out of it for the moment. I'm shooting for the 24mpg's mark.
Now I just need to address my custom console so the rear monitor is functional for the boys and we'll be one step closer to being finished.
Now I just need to address my custom console so the rear monitor is functional for the boys and we'll be one step closer to being finished.
#117
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Trans Tunnel
I'm not exactly sure as to how much higher it is but with the aluminum drive shaft I have and the eibach lowering springs I did have to bring it up some. Without looking at it and just going from memory, I believe that the top of the tunnel is even with the floor under the back seats.
#118
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Let me start by saying I just found your thread, and have not read through it yet. I will go through it completely before I start posting questions, in theory that is. However I am putting the same motor/transmission in my '88 Blazer, LY6/6L90/NP241M. As such, I have run into a couple of issues that I am interested to find out if you have encountered them yet or, if so, how you handled them. Most of my issues deal with the controls side of the project. The Mechanical side is pretty straight forward, i.e. getting the packaging in place. Herding the electrons is the part I am not so comfortable with yet.
I have a build project on another site. Based on the cross vehicle genre nature of my build, maybe I need to blog it like my wife insists but I don't know anything about Blogging and don't have time to learn, or don't want to take the time to learn when there is so much I need to figure out on my own build.
http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/...sert-Build-Log
I look forward to reading your build log and hopefully you are well ahead of where I am so you have already got all of the answers I am going to need.
BTW, I have an appreciation for the garage decor pinned to the walls.
I have a build project on another site. Based on the cross vehicle genre nature of my build, maybe I need to blog it like my wife insists but I don't know anything about Blogging and don't have time to learn, or don't want to take the time to learn when there is so much I need to figure out on my own build.
http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/...sert-Build-Log
I look forward to reading your build log and hopefully you are well ahead of where I am so you have already got all of the answers I am going to need.
BTW, I have an appreciation for the garage decor pinned to the walls.
Last edited by Duke4AZ; 02-25-2014 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Additional stuff.
#119
Okay, change in plan. I don't want to forget about some of the mods you have made. This one makes sense. I don't have a dipstick and that tranny fills that tunnel pretty snug. If you a location on that plug, it would be more help than trying to run down a G8 pan to get the measurements off of. I take it the length of the tube corresponds to the liquid level at the prescribed fill volume?
#120
Based on where I am in the thread, it looks like you are starting to get into much of the information I am starting to struggle with.