BMW boy picked up a 95 Jeep and a LM7 - input and making fun of inside
08-24-2012, 10:29 PM
#1
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BMW boy picked up a 95 Jeep and a LM7 - input and making fun of inside Hey Guys,
My name is Luke and my SN on most forums (bmw) is LukeG (if moderator could change here as well I would appreciate it)
Anyways, I've been a die hard BMW enthusiast since turning 16 (24 now) but whats the fun in playing with the same cars over and over? I have built a 604whp 98 m3 and for those who care to see here is the build thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1216803 and here is a video of the car.
Anyways, recently I picked up a 95 Jeep wrangler and shortly after a $300 LM7 fell into my hands so I have now decided to do the swap. I do have some questions however.
The jeep currently has 4.80 gears in it and the 4 cylinder moves it at a decent rate, so I think to keep costs down I will keep the LM7 stock unless you guys suggest some must do budget friendly mods. Feel free to chime in with these.
I have identified the heads to be 706 but how do I figure out if its really is a LM7 and not a LR4?
I would like to refresh the engine before dropping in and would like your input here.
1) If the heads are straight and clean do you still recommend a resurface? Guides? Seals?
2) Do I go with the LS9 headgaskets?
3) Stock head bolts or should I upgrade?
4) I have read about piston ring gap being too tight on the LS engines, should I be concerned about this?
5) What do I replace while refreshing the motor?
6) Change cam? Intake? Which TB do I get? (did not come with one), What headers should I look for?
7) Did not come with a wire harness or ECU, being that it will be going in a Wrangler, what should I try to source?
8) Do you think I need to change the accessories/brackets to LS parts to make it fit? If so can you please go into detail which parts exactly I need?
9) I'm assuming I can get any LS flywheel/clutch setup and it will bolt up?
I know this post is quite extensive with lots of noob questions but even a point in the right direction is appreciated!
Thanks guys!
My name is Luke and my SN on most forums (bmw) is LukeG (if moderator could change here as well I would appreciate it)
Anyways, I've been a die hard BMW enthusiast since turning 16 (24 now) but whats the fun in playing with the same cars over and over? I have built a 604whp 98 m3 and for those who care to see here is the build thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1216803 and here is a video of the car.
Anyways, recently I picked up a 95 Jeep wrangler and shortly after a $300 LM7 fell into my hands so I have now decided to do the swap. I do have some questions however.
The jeep currently has 4.80 gears in it and the 4 cylinder moves it at a decent rate, so I think to keep costs down I will keep the LM7 stock unless you guys suggest some must do budget friendly mods. Feel free to chime in with these.
I have identified the heads to be 706 but how do I figure out if its really is a LM7 and not a LR4?
I would like to refresh the engine before dropping in and would like your input here.
1) If the heads are straight and clean do you still recommend a resurface? Guides? Seals?
2) Do I go with the LS9 headgaskets?
3) Stock head bolts or should I upgrade?
4) I have read about piston ring gap being too tight on the LS engines, should I be concerned about this?
5) What do I replace while refreshing the motor?
6) Change cam? Intake? Which TB do I get? (did not come with one), What headers should I look for?
7) Did not come with a wire harness or ECU, being that it will be going in a Wrangler, what should I try to source?
8) Do you think I need to change the accessories/brackets to LS parts to make it fit? If so can you please go into detail which parts exactly I need?
9) I'm assuming I can get any LS flywheel/clutch setup and it will bolt up?
I know this post is quite extensive with lots of noob questions but even a point in the right direction is appreciated!
Thanks guys!
08-25-2012, 01:02 PM
#3
You've got your work cut out...
I've got a 383 Chevy powered Wrangler, so I have some idea of how much.
You can do the swap, but be aware that the Jeep 4-banger parts are not going to hold up to the higher power output of the LM7 very well. You can baby it, you can avoid things like lockers, or you can bite the bullet and swap the axle as well as the rest of the driveline. For the LM7, you're probably OK with a set of D44's, such as found in the Rubicon. Or pull the axles from a 1/2 ton chevy. An older one with live axles front and rear will likely have either a D44 or a 10 bolt in the front and a 10 or 12 bolt in the rear. That same truck can provide you with a trans and TC.
I've got a 383 Chevy powered Wrangler, so I have some idea of how much.
You can do the swap, but be aware that the Jeep 4-banger parts are not going to hold up to the higher power output of the LM7 very well. You can baby it, you can avoid things like lockers, or you can bite the bullet and swap the axle as well as the rest of the driveline. For the LM7, you're probably OK with a set of D44's, such as found in the Rubicon. Or pull the axles from a 1/2 ton chevy. An older one with live axles front and rear will likely have either a D44 or a 10 bolt in the front and a 10 or 12 bolt in the rear. That same truck can provide you with a trans and TC.
08-25-2012, 04:36 PM
#4
Do you plan to keep the Jeep at its present size, or are you interested in doing any offroading, and/or adding larger tires? What size tires are on it now? 4.88 gears are not stock, so I'm making a guess its got larger tires than stock, maybe some 31s or 33s?
Here's my takes on it (Have many Jeep builds under my belt). I'm kinda guessing its an on-road Jeep here.
4.88s are going to be too low, unless you are running quite a bit of tire. If they are stock axles, then they are a dana 30 front/35 rear. The front would be fine, but the rear is pretty iffy: small c-clip shafts and a 7.5" ring gear. The 4.88 geared axles are valuable as a set, I'd pull them out, and sell them. Find a stock front axle with 3.73 or 4.10 gears. Then find a matching gear ratio Ford Explorer 8.8 rear axle. You should be able to find both for around $400 for the pair.
The AX5 transmission is not up to V8 power in any way. If its working well, sell it, along with the NV231 behind it, since its likely a 21 spline unit that won't mate up to any stronger trans.
If you wanted a stick, an AX15 from behind a 4.0 Jeep will likely hold up behind the stock 5.3 as long as you don't abuse it too bad. Or just go 4L60e and a NV241 transfer case.
If you aren't offroading it and worried about ground clearance, the stock truck oil pan will probably work for you. F-body LS1 pans will work, but will starve for oil at steep angles (again, only a concern if you are climbing near-vertical ledges, etc).
I'd suggest reading as much of this as you can, and take notes as you go:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=735270
Myself, if you are pulling it apart, then I'd go with a nice little cam. An LS6 cam will add about 40hp, or any of the milder offerings out there from the aftermarket would work well.
There's plenty of swap parts out there, but costs can add up fast. The more you can do or fabricate yourself, the more you can save.
Here's my takes on it (Have many Jeep builds under my belt). I'm kinda guessing its an on-road Jeep here.
4.88s are going to be too low, unless you are running quite a bit of tire. If they are stock axles, then they are a dana 30 front/35 rear. The front would be fine, but the rear is pretty iffy: small c-clip shafts and a 7.5" ring gear. The 4.88 geared axles are valuable as a set, I'd pull them out, and sell them. Find a stock front axle with 3.73 or 4.10 gears. Then find a matching gear ratio Ford Explorer 8.8 rear axle. You should be able to find both for around $400 for the pair.
The AX5 transmission is not up to V8 power in any way. If its working well, sell it, along with the NV231 behind it, since its likely a 21 spline unit that won't mate up to any stronger trans.
If you wanted a stick, an AX15 from behind a 4.0 Jeep will likely hold up behind the stock 5.3 as long as you don't abuse it too bad. Or just go 4L60e and a NV241 transfer case.
If you aren't offroading it and worried about ground clearance, the stock truck oil pan will probably work for you. F-body LS1 pans will work, but will starve for oil at steep angles (again, only a concern if you are climbing near-vertical ledges, etc).
I'd suggest reading as much of this as you can, and take notes as you go:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=735270
Myself, if you are pulling it apart, then I'd go with a nice little cam. An LS6 cam will add about 40hp, or any of the milder offerings out there from the aftermarket would work well.
There's plenty of swap parts out there, but costs can add up fast. The more you can do or fabricate yourself, the more you can save.
08-25-2012, 04:39 PM
#5
I had put an L33 into my Jeep CJ8, and am now preparing for my 1969 CJ6 to receive a cammed LS3.
On mine, I'll be running a high pinion Dana 30 front with 4.56 gears, and a narrowed Ford 9" to match in the rear. Its a pretty low gear ratio for only 30" tires, but its AWD with no low range, and I will also run it on the sand, not just the street. I'm using a 700R4.
On mine, I'll be running a high pinion Dana 30 front with 4.56 gears, and a narrowed Ford 9" to match in the rear. Its a pretty low gear ratio for only 30" tires, but its AWD with no low range, and I will also run it on the sand, not just the street. I'm using a 700R4.
