LS2 FD RX-7 matchbox build 2.0
08-23-2013, 12:13 AM
#42
Here's our S2000 ITB's and the porting we did...
I've finally decided what I'm going to do with the powder coat on mine, but YOU CAN'T STEAL MY IDEA!
I'm going to do the inside of the trumpet in neochrome. I might just leave the outside of the trumpet with the factory polish on it.
I, like you, want to mesh the JDM and USDM characteristics into one build. I'm huge into the domestics, but I think there's some really neat things that people in the JDM scene do and want to bring that into the other car scenes. That's why I'm doing things with my car that most do not. I just got the external reservoir BC Racing coilovers on the car and plan to get it sitting pretty low on an import style wheel with a little tire stretch (nothing crazy). That's also why I did the ITB's. Everybody goes with the FAST products. I get tired of seeing them under the hood of every Ls car. I also have plans to do a quick release hub with something like a Nardi wheel.
I've finally decided what I'm going to do with the powder coat on mine, but YOU CAN'T STEAL MY IDEA!
I'm going to do the inside of the trumpet in neochrome. I might just leave the outside of the trumpet with the factory polish on it.
I, like you, want to mesh the JDM and USDM characteristics into one build. I'm huge into the domestics, but I think there's some really neat things that people in the JDM scene do and want to bring that into the other car scenes. That's why I'm doing things with my car that most do not. I just got the external reservoir BC Racing coilovers on the car and plan to get it sitting pretty low on an import style wheel with a little tire stretch (nothing crazy). That's also why I did the ITB's. Everybody goes with the FAST products. I get tired of seeing them under the hood of every Ls car. I also have plans to do a quick release hub with something like a Nardi wheel.
Last edited by thehazz12; 08-24-2013 at 12:53 AM.
09-07-2013, 02:47 AM
#44
Here's our S2000 ITB's and the porting we did...
I've finally decided what I'm going to do with the powder coat on mine, but YOU CAN'T STEAL MY IDEA!
I'm going to do the inside of the trumpet in neochrome. I might just leave the outside of the trumpet with the factory polish on it.
I, like you, want to mesh the JDM and USDM characteristics into one build. I'm huge into the domestics, but I think there's some really neat things that people in the JDM scene do and want to bring that into the other car scenes. That's why I'm doing things with my car that most do not. I just got the external reservoir BC Racing coilovers on the car and plan to get it sitting pretty low on an import style wheel with a little tire stretch (nothing crazy). That's also why I did the ITB's. Everybody goes with the FAST products. I get tired of seeing them under the hood of every Ls car. I also have plans to do a quick release hub with something like a Nardi wheel.
I've finally decided what I'm going to do with the powder coat on mine, but YOU CAN'T STEAL MY IDEA!
I'm going to do the inside of the trumpet in neochrome. I might just leave the outside of the trumpet with the factory polish on it.
I, like you, want to mesh the JDM and USDM characteristics into one build. I'm huge into the domestics, but I think there's some really neat things that people in the JDM scene do and want to bring that into the other car scenes. That's why I'm doing things with my car that most do not. I just got the external reservoir BC Racing coilovers on the car and plan to get it sitting pretty low on an import style wheel with a little tire stretch (nothing crazy). That's also why I did the ITB's. Everybody goes with the FAST products. I get tired of seeing them under the hood of every Ls car. I also have plans to do a quick release hub with something like a Nardi wheel.
^ those look nice.
Thanks for posting those pics, that is some nice port work! How much hardware did you end up replacing? I kinda like the purple myself heh, but I also wont steal the look you will be going with on the trumpets. I will probably keep the trumpets aluminum, but was debating doing the runners in wrinkle red to match the Katech covers that are going to be wrinkle red...
A lot of folks run the FAST or LS3 intake, and I was thinking about the same before my hood swap (this is my FOURTH hood and those are the FIFTH set of headlights
lol) but like your saying if you can mesh the USDM and JDM in a nice way, it can look pretty sick I think. BC coils are nice and Nardi is always a good choice, I have been using Nardi wheels for the last decade.
so any progress on this? about a week ago i pulled the trigger on a big single widebody rx7...now i have 2 fd's.
Thanks for posting those pics, that is some nice port work! How much hardware did you end up replacing? I kinda like the purple myself heh, but I also wont steal the look you will be going with on the trumpets. I will probably keep the trumpets aluminum, but was debating doing the runners in wrinkle red to match the Katech covers that are going to be wrinkle red...
A lot of folks run the FAST or LS3 intake, and I was thinking about the same before my hood swap (this is my FOURTH hood and those are the FIFTH set of headlights
lol) but like your saying if you can mesh the USDM and JDM in a nice way, it can look pretty sick I think. BC coils are nice and Nardi is always a good choice, I have been using Nardi wheels for the last decade.so any progress on this? about a week ago i pulled the trigger on a big single widebody rx7...now i have 2 fd's.
Big single widebody 7..... FUN!!! If I could have two I would! Having a LS and a 20B big single or something would be a lot of fun!
***Some performance update!***
I did manage to pick up some heads from a friend of a friend who literally had them sitting around. PRC 215, .58cc, 675 springs and Ti retainers. He tossed in a set of Comp 7.450 pushrods as well, and was asking for a third of what it would cost new so I took them. I have a relatively tame cam 220/.550 so I am hoping this should give some nice breathing to the motor over my stock LS2's. The heads are at the machine shop getting jet washed and re-decked as I wanted the surface as even as possible and there were a few scratches here and there. The heads pressure tested well but they are being disassembled to clean up a bit of wear between the valves where it looks like some detonation was occurring. The machine shop asked for cam specs to set the springs to best suit my cam, but I lost my papers from when I ordered my engine so if anyone can point me in the right direction for that it would be greatly appreciated
I have also been debating running Comp triunion upgrade with my oem rockers, or the full Comp Ultra-Gold setup which is a bit overkill but more set it and forget it to me. If anyone has any recommendations of roller, oem, or something else do chime in. I've been leaning toward roller rockers from what I have read about wear over time with these heads on oem parts. I'd like to not have to be yanking off the heads or covers after the ITB's are on the car if possible and again response and balance are the key focus of the car.
Might have some pics of the heads or car or both next week!
09-12-2013, 12:58 AM
#45
Thanks. ...so does your collection of vehicles! TT FD...badass! Needs a 20b. 
Nissan Hardbody truck...love it! Sr swapped one of those. MKIV JDM RHD Supra...sex! And my favorite out of the all...Speedway Blue X-Runner. JIZZ! Oh how I envy you. I was looking for a blue XR a few years ago. I ended up getting a damn GTO because I couldn't afford the XR I wanted.
Neat stuff, man. PM me some pictures PLEASE!
Don't get too far ahead of yourself. When setting up a motor, you need all of your components to work together ESPECIALLY valvetrain. I wouldn't run those .675" springs on a .550" cam. Bigger (more) is not always better.
1. Ditch the springs for something better suited to that cam.
2. If you really want to use those springs, see if someone can grind you a cam that's suited to those heads and springs.
Regardless, I'd measure for pushrod length before just throwing the extra .050" in.
The 243 casting is actually an excellent factory casting. We made 490/500+ on an Ls1 with them through a T56. That was with the ported TB (I think we opened it up to 80mm and waterjet a new butterfly), ported Ls6 intake, ported 243's with welded chambers (12.68:1), 228R cam, a very nice CAI, and a free flowing exhaust.
The Trunion upgrade is a great idea. It's super cheap and very easy to do assuming you have a press. It makes the factory rocker arm setup EXTREMELY strong, and you don't have to worry about pulling needle bearings out of your motor. I'd say that's all you need for your build. You won't be making a ton of power or turning a lot of RPM's so that will work perfectly fine. I would swap out those lifters, though. Get some new trays and do the Ls7 or Brian Tooley's SLR at a minumum. I try to do a linkbar setup in every motor I touch. I just feel a lot more comfortable...seen too many lifter failures take out too many cams.
Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions or ideas.
Nissan Hardbody truck...love it! Sr swapped one of those. MKIV JDM RHD Supra...sex! And my favorite out of the all...Speedway Blue X-Runner. JIZZ! Oh how I envy you. I was looking for a blue XR a few years ago. I ended up getting a damn GTO because I couldn't afford the XR I wanted. Neat stuff, man. PM me some pictures PLEASE!
I did manage to pick up some heads from a friend of a friend who literally had them sitting around. PRC 215, .58cc, 675 springs and Ti retainers. He tossed in a set of Comp 7.450 pushrods as well, and was asking for a third of what it would cost new so I took them. I have a relatively tame cam 220/.550 so I am hoping this should give some nice breathing to the motor over my stock LS2's. The heads are at the machine shop getting jet washed and re-decked as I wanted the surface as even as possible and there were a few scratches here and there. The heads pressure tested well but they are being disassembled to clean up a bit of wear between the valves where it looks like some detonation was occurring. The machine shop asked for cam specs to set the springs to best suit my cam, but I lost my papers from when I ordered my engine so if anyone can point me in the right direction for that it would be greatly appreciated
I have also been debating running Comp triunion upgrade with my oem rockers, or the full Comp Ultra-Gold setup which is a bit overkill but more set it and forget it to me. If anyone has any recommendations of roller, oem, or something else do chime in. I've been leaning toward roller rockers from what I have read about wear over time with these heads on oem parts. I'd like to not have to be yanking off the heads or covers after the ITB's are on the car if possible and again response and balance are the key focus of the car.
Might have some pics of the heads or car or both next week!
I have also been debating running Comp triunion upgrade with my oem rockers, or the full Comp Ultra-Gold setup which is a bit overkill but more set it and forget it to me. If anyone has any recommendations of roller, oem, or something else do chime in. I've been leaning toward roller rockers from what I have read about wear over time with these heads on oem parts. I'd like to not have to be yanking off the heads or covers after the ITB's are on the car if possible and again response and balance are the key focus of the car.
Might have some pics of the heads or car or both next week!
1. Ditch the springs for something better suited to that cam.
2. If you really want to use those springs, see if someone can grind you a cam that's suited to those heads and springs.
Regardless, I'd measure for pushrod length before just throwing the extra .050" in.
The 243 casting is actually an excellent factory casting. We made 490/500+ on an Ls1 with them through a T56. That was with the ported TB (I think we opened it up to 80mm and waterjet a new butterfly), ported Ls6 intake, ported 243's with welded chambers (12.68:1), 228R cam, a very nice CAI, and a free flowing exhaust.
The Trunion upgrade is a great idea. It's super cheap and very easy to do assuming you have a press. It makes the factory rocker arm setup EXTREMELY strong, and you don't have to worry about pulling needle bearings out of your motor. I'd say that's all you need for your build. You won't be making a ton of power or turning a lot of RPM's so that will work perfectly fine. I would swap out those lifters, though. Get some new trays and do the Ls7 or Brian Tooley's SLR at a minumum. I try to do a linkbar setup in every motor I touch. I just feel a lot more comfortable...seen too many lifter failures take out too many cams.
Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions or ideas.
09-15-2013, 02:40 PM
#46
Thanks for the info thehazz12, I was hoping to get some help like this here and I have even gotten a few pm's to point me in the right direction.
I'll be going with option 2, getting a cam to best match my heads and valvetrain. And the trunion upgrade also will be the way I go as well with so many folks letting me know to sick with the factory rockers. With access to a press, and all the info coming in, it was a easy decision. I will be calling Brian Tooley once the car is back home and mechanical parts start being worked on again for cam, and lifter discussions and order.
*Big thanks to everyone here once again for taking the time to pm, reply and point me in the right (and matching) direction. Gives a big boost in confidence that things are headed in the right direction.
Another quick update for this week. Went to the bodyshop for a look at the car before it heads in for paint, everything is primed now and all carbon parts have been test fitted with nutserts where mounting is made to keep things serviceable. I've seen too many bodykits mounted with self tapping screws.... barf, the FD and any car getting some aero work done deserves better then that I think.
Next week it should all be wrapped up hopefully as it is going into the booth on Monday, glass is coming mid week and then its just installing all the carbon parts and it will be time to bring the car back home to start mechanical tear down again. A new cam will be next on the list to match the heads and ITB, something with a much more aggressive cut this time.
I'll be going with option 2, getting a cam to best match my heads and valvetrain. And the trunion upgrade also will be the way I go as well with so many folks letting me know to sick with the factory rockers. With access to a press, and all the info coming in, it was a easy decision. I will be calling Brian Tooley once the car is back home and mechanical parts start being worked on again for cam, and lifter discussions and order.
*Big thanks to everyone here once again for taking the time to pm, reply and point me in the right (and matching) direction. Gives a big boost in confidence that things are headed in the right direction.
Another quick update for this week. Went to the bodyshop for a look at the car before it heads in for paint, everything is primed now and all carbon parts have been test fitted with nutserts where mounting is made to keep things serviceable. I've seen too many bodykits mounted with self tapping screws.... barf, the FD and any car getting some aero work done deserves better then that I think.
Next week it should all be wrapped up hopefully as it is going into the booth on Monday, glass is coming mid week and then its just installing all the carbon parts and it will be time to bring the car back home to start mechanical tear down again. A new cam will be next on the list to match the heads and ITB, something with a much more aggressive cut this time.
09-16-2013, 12:28 AM
#47
Thanks for the info thehazz12, I was hoping to get some help like this here and I have even gotten a few pm's to point me in the right direction.
I'll be going with option 2, getting a cam to best match my heads and valvetrain. And the trunion upgrade also will be the way I go as well with so many folks letting me know to sick with the factory rockers. With access to a press, and all the info coming in, it was a easy decision. I will be calling Brian Tooley once the car is back home and mechanical parts start being worked on again for cam, and lifter discussions and order.
*Big thanks to everyone here once again for taking the time to pm, reply and point me in the right (and matching) direction. Gives a big boost in confidence that things are headed in the right direction.
Another quick update for this week. Went to the bodyshop for a look at the car before it heads in for paint, everything is primed now and all carbon parts have been test fitted with nutserts where mounting is made to keep things serviceable. I've seen too many bodykits mounted with self tapping screws.... barf, the FD and any car getting some aero work done deserves better then that I think.
Next week it should all be wrapped up hopefully as it is going into the booth on Monday, glass is coming mid week and then its just installing all the carbon parts and it will be time to bring the car back home to start mechanical tear down again. A new cam will be next on the list to match the heads and ITB, something with a much more aggressive cut this time.
I'll be going with option 2, getting a cam to best match my heads and valvetrain. And the trunion upgrade also will be the way I go as well with so many folks letting me know to sick with the factory rockers. With access to a press, and all the info coming in, it was a easy decision. I will be calling Brian Tooley once the car is back home and mechanical parts start being worked on again for cam, and lifter discussions and order.
*Big thanks to everyone here once again for taking the time to pm, reply and point me in the right (and matching) direction. Gives a big boost in confidence that things are headed in the right direction.
Another quick update for this week. Went to the bodyshop for a look at the car before it heads in for paint, everything is primed now and all carbon parts have been test fitted with nutserts where mounting is made to keep things serviceable. I've seen too many bodykits mounted with self tapping screws.... barf, the FD and any car getting some aero work done deserves better then that I think.
Next week it should all be wrapped up hopefully as it is going into the booth on Monday, glass is coming mid week and then its just installing all the carbon parts and it will be time to bring the car back home to start mechanical tear down again. A new cam will be next on the list to match the heads and ITB, something with a much more aggressive cut this time.
Car is getting close! Can't wait to see the end product!
09-21-2013, 01:57 AM
#48
Put through my performance order with Brian Tooley, extremely helpful and he had a lot of interest in the build. A new cam, lifters, head gaskets, trunion upgrade, and fasteners are on their way to me!
Next week the heads should be ready to go as I now have my cam specs so the springs can be adjusted to match. Body shop is delayed... again... but next week I hope they have some good news for me.
Since I am sure some might be wondering what he recommended, the cam specs are 235/242 .621"/.592" 111+3. He said I could go a bit more aggressive with ITB but with a stock bottom end and my heads, this is the safest and most of all the most responsive cam profile for my setup as a whole. If I get forged pistons and start messing with the bottom end, he said to call him back as he has some ideas for how to go even further in a all out response NA LS2 for track. On a regular intake, even a fast or holley the cam is not very street friendly, but with ITB's he said it should be a whole different beast and more tolerable on the street.
Properly excited, can't wait to get the car back.
Next week the heads should be ready to go as I now have my cam specs so the springs can be adjusted to match. Body shop is delayed... again... but next week I hope they have some good news for me.
Since I am sure some might be wondering what he recommended, the cam specs are 235/242 .621"/.592" 111+3. He said I could go a bit more aggressive with ITB but with a stock bottom end and my heads, this is the safest and most of all the most responsive cam profile for my setup as a whole. If I get forged pistons and start messing with the bottom end, he said to call him back as he has some ideas for how to go even further in a all out response NA LS2 for track. On a regular intake, even a fast or holley the cam is not very street friendly, but with ITB's he said it should be a whole different beast and more tolerable on the street.
Properly excited, can't wait to get the car back.
09-22-2013, 11:43 PM
#49
Put through my performance order with Brian Tooley, extremely helpful and he had a lot of interest in the build. A new cam, lifters, head gaskets, trunion upgrade, and fasteners are on their way to me!
Next week the heads should be ready to go as I now have my cam specs so the springs can be adjusted to match. Body shop is delayed... again... but next week I hope they have some good news for me.
Since I am sure some might be wondering what he recommended, the cam specs are 235/242 .621"/.592" 111+3. He said I could go a bit more aggressive with ITB but with a stock bottom end and my heads, this is the safest and most of all the most responsive cam profile for my setup as a whole. If I get forged pistons and start messing with the bottom end, he said to call him back as he has some ideas for how to go even further in a all out response NA LS2 for track. On a regular intake, even a fast or holley the cam is not very street friendly, but with ITB's he said it should be a whole different beast and more tolerable on the street.
Properly excited, can't wait to get the car back.
Next week the heads should be ready to go as I now have my cam specs so the springs can be adjusted to match. Body shop is delayed... again... but next week I hope they have some good news for me.
Since I am sure some might be wondering what he recommended, the cam specs are 235/242 .621"/.592" 111+3. He said I could go a bit more aggressive with ITB but with a stock bottom end and my heads, this is the safest and most of all the most responsive cam profile for my setup as a whole. If I get forged pistons and start messing with the bottom end, he said to call him back as he has some ideas for how to go even further in a all out response NA LS2 for track. On a regular intake, even a fast or holley the cam is not very street friendly, but with ITB's he said it should be a whole different beast and more tolerable on the street.
Properly excited, can't wait to get the car back.
That's another great thing about ITB's...you can afford to run a profile that would be SUPER aggressive on a different setup and still have good street manners.
I get more and more excited about this build every post.
11-19-2013, 09:10 PM
#52
Some crappy phone pics until I can find some time with the SLR, been travelling for work too much and need some car time....
It looks pretty, but a long way to go still, I really need new wheels.... :-[
and some interior, you can see how huge the hood cowl is, at least a quarter of the front visibility is gone from the cage+wink rally mirror+super low bucket seat...
There is about 3.5" of ground clearance on the front, not terribly fun on these Canadian roads. Hopefully when I switch to 17s or 18s all around, the clearance will get a bit better as my coilovers are already maxed out. The gas filler is next on the list to tackle as well as ducting that front bumper, fun stuff!
It looks pretty, but a long way to go still, I really need new wheels.... :-[
and some interior, you can see how huge the hood cowl is, at least a quarter of the front visibility is gone from the cage+wink rally mirror+super low bucket seat...
There is about 3.5" of ground clearance on the front, not terribly fun on these Canadian roads. Hopefully when I switch to 17s or 18s all around, the clearance will get a bit better as my coilovers are already maxed out. The gas filler is next on the list to tackle as well as ducting that front bumper, fun stuff!
Last edited by tai-lun; 11-19-2013 at 09:31 PM.
11-29-2013, 01:55 AM
#54
I have to unload the wheels currently on the car and another set I was going to put on the car before buying more wheels heh.
11-30-2013, 12:41 PM
#56
This has been on my mind for way too long heh, the debate between 17s or 18s has been long and hard in my mind and with my tuner. To keep with the theme and most importantly the focus of the car, I am going with 17s over 18s. I will be running 17x9-10 and 17x10-20 with 255/40/17 and 275/40/17 street legal RT615K since I will want to maintain plates on the car.
Weight+Response are what drove my choice in the end, the taller 40 profile tires will give more feedback to me over a 35/30 profile on 18s and the smaller wheels keep what weight there is rotating closer to the center of the hub. Those offsets also will give me enough clearance on my fenders for optimal wheel travel under hard compression in corners with no fender rubbing. As much as the "hella-flush" crap is still being flaunted on cars, this setup is function>form. Less rotational mass with stickier rubber, if the tires can't handle the torque, I can always change them to a more aggressive compound like R888 or NT01. My power output at the end of the day is not that massive over stock, response is the biggest change with the ITB's when they go on. If I can put down 500whp with the new heads+cam+itb+AEM I will be pretty amazed heh.
18s would LOOK way better, no dispute on that, but the car needs to keep focused on the overall balance this time and I think the 17s will still look good. The fat tires should match the aggressive body styling too I think. If I pick up another set of wheels down the road just for street, they will be 18s absolutely.
Now which wheel I picked, we will have to just wait and see ha ha!
Today is ITB runner cleanup day, when they are all cleaned up I will have some pics.
Weight+Response are what drove my choice in the end, the taller 40 profile tires will give more feedback to me over a 35/30 profile on 18s and the smaller wheels keep what weight there is rotating closer to the center of the hub. Those offsets also will give me enough clearance on my fenders for optimal wheel travel under hard compression in corners with no fender rubbing. As much as the "hella-flush" crap is still being flaunted on cars, this setup is function>form. Less rotational mass with stickier rubber, if the tires can't handle the torque, I can always change them to a more aggressive compound like R888 or NT01. My power output at the end of the day is not that massive over stock, response is the biggest change with the ITB's when they go on. If I can put down 500whp with the new heads+cam+itb+AEM I will be pretty amazed heh.
18s would LOOK way better, no dispute on that, but the car needs to keep focused on the overall balance this time and I think the 17s will still look good. The fat tires should match the aggressive body styling too I think. If I pick up another set of wheels down the road just for street, they will be 18s absolutely.
Now which wheel I picked, we will have to just wait and see ha ha!
Today is ITB runner cleanup day, when they are all cleaned up I will have some pics.
Last edited by tai-lun; 11-30-2013 at 12:56 PM.
01-27-2014, 04:07 AM
#58
It's been a many number of weeks of long days with OT so that has killed a lot of my car time, I have boxes of parts to go on and ITBs that still need final porting... hoping this week is less harsh on the work schedule so I can get some more work done on the fuel setup and runners.
As for the wheels I haven't pulled the trigger for a few reasons, one being the dollar for us Canadian's is not so kind like it was a month ago ha ha! And I am toying with the idea of re-lipping and restoring a set of classic 3-piece wheels as 18's instead of the monoblock 17's. Tire size would be 265/275 on the 18s so a bit more front grip.
Hopefully some updates with pics this week!
As for the wheels I haven't pulled the trigger for a few reasons, one being the dollar for us Canadian's is not so kind like it was a month ago ha ha! And I am toying with the idea of re-lipping and restoring a set of classic 3-piece wheels as 18's instead of the monoblock 17's. Tire size would be 265/275 on the 18s so a bit more front grip.
Hopefully some updates with pics this week!
Last edited by tai-lun; 02-20-2014 at 04:08 AM. Reason: typos...
02-04-2014, 12:34 PM
#59
Why all that bodywork for 265/275's? I have 315's under a stock rear and 25mm fronts. (7.5in back spacing is the key + plus that keeps the scrub radius reasonable with a wide body) Either 315/335 or 335/335 combo, There is no better/easier way to go faster that more tire. Btw thats not a form>function set up either, Im sure you have seen Brent Daltons FD? (315/335 combo same body as you with space to spare) 265's and a wide body screams poser. $.02
02-20-2014, 04:15 AM
#60
Why all that bodywork for 265/275's? I have 315's under a stock rear and 25mm fronts. (7.5in back spacing is the key + plus that keeps the scrub radius reasonable with a wide body) Either 315/335 or 335/335 combo, There is no better/easier way to go faster that more tire. Btw thats not a form>function set up either, Im sure you have seen Brent Daltons FD? (315/335 combo same body as you with space to spare) 265's and a wide body screams poser. $.02
I finally finished porting the runners, installing SS vac fittings in each runner, and did final (hopefully) assembly of the main TB setup. Linkage and hardware is last to tackle and get right so all 8 open properly together.
