omc8

iTrader: (7)

Not sure base or premium ; ready to go ? It would be for a Gen IV without a/c.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

A friend told me this is called "dual wall" or "adhesive" shrink tube. Found tons of it online now that I know what it is. Good stuff!

I noticed when I pulled the coil harness apart that had these, the wires inside weren't even soldered! They were just wrapped around eachother. Mistake?

MightyAl

iTrader: (3)

Every OEM I have ever seen will use a mechanical splice with shrink tubing. There is usually never any soldering anywhere on the harness. Of course they have much better tools to ensure that their mechanical splices are good.

69 Ghost

Both of your statements are wrong. GM does not solder any connections except maybe the power connectors at the alternator and battery. The reason is because it has been found that soldered connections can vibrate and break at the end of the solder. The connectors are designed by delphi to be crimped only. They do recommend that if you splice wires that they be crimped or soldered and sealed which moves the vibration past the crimp or solder. As for the crimpers Caspers has 2 different sets one with and one without the crimper for the seal. You just need to make sure you get the one with the crimper part for the seal. Either way a dab of silicone works just as well.
Most people pass up the engine bay harness only to spend say your price of $150 for a harness that does the same thing. The entire car harness is split into 3 sections. The motor, the engine bay, and interior. All 3 harnesses tie into each other. The engine bay harness is the easiest to convert and contains all the relays and fuses needed along with lighting, fans, cruise, power, etc. Last time I looked a 4th Gen Camaro harness was going for less than $50 on ebay.

MightyAl

iTrader: (3)

You get what you pay for with a used harness. A 10+ year old harness will be brittle and dirty. Sounds like a minor thing but I have had many connectors crumble in my hand especially if it is a harness that has been off and on a car several times. Then all the grease and grime makes it even more fun to deal with modifying an old harness. If someone else has modified or changed the harness there can be mistakes you don't know about until you try to turn the motor over.

I haven't seen any for $50 but usually $150 or so which still isn't a bad price. It is nice to have the availability of new harnesses. The cars I used to deal with didn't have this for past few years and someone has finally started building them for $1000 a piece so $500 is a steal to me. And the cost of PCMs is a dream with the fact that they can be programmed for almost any configuration. I am in heaven with the LSx engines.

I know where you are coming from and if you have more time then money then a used harness is the way to go.

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

Edited

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

So this is dual wall heat shrink tube? Or whatever that white stuff is gets added for water tight seal?

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

Edited

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

So where do you get it if it's not readily available?

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

Edited

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Ok, so how do you find a Delphi distributor?

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Yes very curious, any websites or do you sell it?

Im deleting the coil pack harness connectors and hard wiring it all. So I broke down the coil harness. Just need to redo those joints.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I think Mouser and Digikey have Delphi stuff. This looks to be the heat shrink:http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Produ...EaDdmQhlpZiPA=

Delphi PN 12186167. They are 2.5" long according to the data sheet.

69 Ghost

[QUOTE=BP Automotive;16993947]I am NOT wrong. If you do NOT use PRODUCTION CRIMP TOOLS the connection MUST be CRIMPED and SOLDERED. PERIOD. You can call delphi and ask them yourself. The black ratchting crimpers that are FAR superior to the blue handled crimpers that caspers sells have to be soldered too. They are meant for REPAIR not PRODUCTION.

With that said, delphi does not solder and crimp because they use pneumatic presses to crimp everything together. I use production crimpers with interchangeable dies on all my harnesses. These you do not have to solder and crimp because you achieve a solderless crimp with them. You have to solder any connection made with any repair tool. PERIOD.QUOTE]

I do not question the difference in quality of the $30 crimpers over the $100+ crimpers. Either way If I had a problem with them I would have easily sprung for a more expensive set. I have redone an entire harness with them and even used them for crimping some things they were not designed for. I did not solder any connection other than some spliced wire connections when lengthening some wires and even a lot of those are not soldered. I have found them to be very good crimpers regardless of what you say and the crimps are very hard to pull apart. I also have a set that crimps the seals. I would be willing to bet that if you called Casper's they would tell you there is no need to solder with their economy crimpers so now who is right? Don't worry I am not trying to take any of your business. Most guys don't bother with the wiring part and even think less about taking an engine bay harness when they are getting a motor. Either way the thread is about a DIY wiring harness. I am not trying to sell anything. I did not buy a harness mine is a complete DIY.

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

Edited

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I read through the whole thread and saw where you are selling the heat shrink, buck and a half for 3 feet of good quality heat shrink doesn't sound bad to me at all, sounds like a bargain! I'm in for some, how do I go about purchasing?

Also on the tape subject, I see some contradictory info here? I have also always used the 3M Super 33+ with good results. Is there something better?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

That was for 3" not 3' (inch vs ft)

69 Ghost

I will wait and wait and wait and wait to see if any of my connections fail with my $30 crimper. There is no question as to the functional part. Til then I guess I have at least 100k miles to go!

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

Edited

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Aw crap, you're right. I was looking at it on my phone, too small of a screen! Guess I wouldn't call 3 inches a stick.....