-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Jesus Freak did you contact Russell to see what they have to say? Maybe they have some tips for the install.

Jesus Freak

I'd just do Holley rails if I wanted AN.

I haven't yet, gotta wait until Monday to call. Not to worried about it yet considering this fitting lasted a year before letting go.
Was able to go to my local speed shop and grab another one today so I could have the car back

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

Check out the Techafx.com connects. They area OEM grade quick connect.

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

Swedgelock 3/8" compression fitting to 6AN(SS-600-6-6N) fitting rather than brazing/welding.
http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_...t=SS-600-6-6AN

They can be special ordered in 5/16" compression to 6AN(SS-500-6-6N) but minimum quantity makes this cost prohibitive.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Street & Performance carry the swedgelocks in both 3/8 x #6 an & 5/16 x #6 an and they sell them individually but are like $35.00 each. I used them on my fpr and thy are rated at 200 psi. You can re-use them I you buy extra ferrules and collets.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

I used the dorman factory style ends and nylon line from the tank forward

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I have used this fitting:

http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com...rod/prd308.htm

For 10 years on 3 different builds and it has never failed. I mean the same actual fitting...not the same kind. Highly recommended.

Andrew

Andy1

I'm curious about your above statement. Why "Not on aluminum parts, and not so close to the fuel rail?"

Yeah, do call Russell.

Andys

Jesus Freak

Maybe cuz I'm just paranoid. Aluminum is such a soft metal, if I ever had to loosen the retainer it's more likely to strip the threads. And locktight is chunky when dry, don't want to risk it getting into the fuel system.

Like I said, I could just be over cautious.

Andy1

Loctite comes in a variety of retention strengths and applications, so for example, you don't want to use the permanent red Loctite where assembly and disassembly is often required. Another benefit of using Loctite that many are not aware of, is that it also functions as an anti galling agent which is particularly good for aluminum fasteners. On my Russell fittings, I believe I used blue Loctite.

Andy1 (Andys)

Grr

iTrader: (2)

agreed, I put blue Loctite on everything, its a good thread lubricant as well as keeping **** tight and still be able to take it back apart. works especially good on aluminum

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Blue loctite is what I was thinking earlier when I mentioned it. Thinking about trying it on the Russell fitting on fuel filter now.

tired2valve

Using that same fitting with no problem yet(knock on wood)

salemetro

iTrader: (5)

I think that you might be over-critical here....but I can totally understand why, as I just had the same failure @ 70mph last week on one of my cars. It's downright scary! The only difference, is that I was using the "push-on" style Russell fitting....it lasted 20k before failing, but I will never use one of that design ever again. I'm counting my lucky stars that I didn't "fireball" down the freeway!

I have since upgraded to the same exact part number that has failed on you, and see no problem with using blue loctite (or even red) on the threads if needed. After all, you still have ability to disconnect the fuel line...even if the loctite held like crazy. One thing to remember, is that the fitting is double o-ringed internally....so you'd have to be really careless/clumsy to introduce any kind of loctite into the fuel system...so i would not worry about it.

You could also get a little creative with a Dremel, and drill the fitting for safety wire as was suggested earlier in the thread if you really felt the need.

One other thing to realize, is that these fittings are not designed to be over-tightened...and by that, I mean that it really does not take a whole lot to properly secure these fittings. If it was over-tightened, then there is always the possibility that the threads were stretched...possibly leading to a failure. Just something to consider.

Personally, I like the design of the "threaded cap" style fitting. I would probably just get a new one, make sure that it's PROPERLY installed/tightened, and maybe check it every time you're under the hood doing an oil change. I'm not saying that you did anything wrong here, just that it will not hurt to "triple check" the installation.

Good luck, and stay safe! I know it scared the hell out of me

BTW...just realized that you're local to me...I have a NIB spare of this fitting in my shop, If you're in a hurry to get it done.

spacemanspif

iTrader: (5)

My push on type fitting failed in less than 6,000 miles. And so far I am happy with the upgraded screw on one.

Why do the push lock style always fail on the highway?? Mine let go at 70mph, engine shut off and I smell gas. Pull over and gas is spewing everywhere!

Luckily, my local Pep-Boys has a lage assortment of -AN fittings and I bought the screw on type along with a new fire extinguisher because the fuel so close to the header scared the hell out of me.

rat_rod_russell

I'm a big fan of these
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/anunions.aspx

We use them on our LS swap chassis's and custom fuel systems.

-Russell

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

You may want to reconsider them as compression fittings are not rated at much pressure at all, regardless of what that site lists

Jesus Freak

I've personally seen swage lock compression fittings hold 120+ psi all day... Don't know about other brands though.

salemetro

iTrader: (5)

Maybe in a stationary "permanent" installation (ie; air compressor lines, etc..). Can't say that I'd want to trust them with fuel in a high-vibration, high temperature sweep environment (60*-300*)....think constant expansion/contraction. I can only guess that leaks would eventually be an issue?

Jesus Freak

I used them on burner/steam applications at my old job.... Haven't had any repairs yet.