64.5 Mustang conversion to 6.0 LY6
12-29-2013, 06:18 PM
#21
hey xboost90, I have a truck pan with windage tray and dipstick sitting in my shed. If you want it, pay for shipping so they can hack that one up and you can keep your engine covered up and not let trash in. besides, its easier to just swap pans and not have to wait around for it to get done....
It came off an 01 Yukon 5.3L 4X4..
It came off an 01 Yukon 5.3L 4X4..
12-29-2013, 06:23 PM
#22
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yeah originally the car had a 260 v8 and auto -rated at 164 hp
when my buddy bought it the car had been "restored" previously and had a 289 v8 -rated at 195 hp
when i bought the car it had no motor, and included two 302 motors which i quickly sold off and i am now aiming for over 400hp n/a with mild mods- should motivate pretty well.
big ed- should only take a week or so to get the pan done- dropping it off tomorrow - and the motor is right side up on the stand should be ok- i do need a dipstick though as this motor was from a large chassis truck and had one of those five foot long dipsticks.
when my buddy bought it the car had been "restored" previously and had a 289 v8 -rated at 195 hp
when i bought the car it had no motor, and included two 302 motors which i quickly sold off and i am now aiming for over 400hp n/a with mild mods- should motivate pretty well.
big ed- should only take a week or so to get the pan done- dropping it off tomorrow - and the motor is right side up on the stand should be ok- i do need a dipstick though as this motor was from a large chassis truck and had one of those five foot long dipsticks.
12-29-2013, 06:29 PM
#23
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technical question- i still need some injectors and a fuel rail for my ls3 intake- no big hurry but i was planning on some log style runners- what size injectors do i need? seems like there are ev1, short, long, diffent plugs and sizes- what do i need? would like to bump up alittle from stock and tune to correct. i have a stock ly6 harness and ecu.
12-29-2013, 06:37 PM
#24
Best bet is get bigger than what you need, tuning can regulate how much goes out. Hell, you could put 160 pound injectors on it and the tuning would make it run like it had stock injectors.
I would say that if you EVER think of doing an upgrade (cam, supercharger, turbo, nitrous, WHATEVER) plan for bigger is better, because tuning can keep it under control. If it was my project, over 40 pounders.. usually larger injectors tend to run in the same neighborhood as the smaller ones, with minor variances. Just look for the same connectors as what you have if they are available. if not either adapter plugs, or change the ends to what you have is not that hard to do.
As for the pan and stuff, its up to you. Mine is not 5 feet long, but it all comes at the same price, free plus shipping!! LOL and besides, having an extra pan wont hurt in case that one gets damaged or fubarred!
I would say that if you EVER think of doing an upgrade (cam, supercharger, turbo, nitrous, WHATEVER) plan for bigger is better, because tuning can keep it under control. If it was my project, over 40 pounders.. usually larger injectors tend to run in the same neighborhood as the smaller ones, with minor variances. Just look for the same connectors as what you have if they are available. if not either adapter plugs, or change the ends to what you have is not that hard to do.
As for the pan and stuff, its up to you. Mine is not 5 feet long, but it all comes at the same price, free plus shipping!! LOL and besides, having an extra pan wont hurt in case that one gets damaged or fubarred!
12-29-2013, 09:33 PM
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pan should be ok- worked on it tonite alittle to get it ready for the machine shop. They will clean it and weld up the holes. Let me know how long that oil dip stick is or give me a pic- thanks!
Heres what i did tonite- cut off the corners- the crossmember has a shape like <V> that the engine sits over, so the front of sump part of the pan was touching just on the corners inside of the V shape. This should give me plenty of clearance and retain my stock pan which looks to have plenty of baffling inside. Ok big Ed time to find some injectors and rails. Hopefully tomorrow they will be shipping my LS3 intake and mustang booster and master to fit things in the engine bay together. Got to get it all fit before i bust it all apart to start doing bodywork.
Heres what i did tonite- cut off the corners- the crossmember has a shape like <V> that the engine sits over, so the front of sump part of the pan was touching just on the corners inside of the V shape. This should give me plenty of clearance and retain my stock pan which looks to have plenty of baffling inside. Ok big Ed time to find some injectors and rails. Hopefully tomorrow they will be shipping my LS3 intake and mustang booster and master to fit things in the engine bay together. Got to get it all fit before i bust it all apart to start doing bodywork.
Last edited by xsboost90; 12-29-2013 at 09:39 PM.
12-30-2013, 09:20 PM
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dropped the pan at the shop this morning- should be done by now, see if i can pick it up tomorrow. Talked to LT1Dave today on the other side of cincy about clipping my wiring harness and programming the ecu- nice dude- prob shoot my stuff over there sometime soon.
12-31-2013, 06:36 AM
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Just gotta say that I am going to love watching this build. Like so many other great builds on this site, this one is just "outside the box" - and I love that. With so many well-restored first generation Mustangs running around or locked away in various garages across the continent, it's refreshing to see an early Mustang get the LSx treatment! I love to spectate at vintage road racing events in the Southeast & there is nothing more beautiful than a Shelby-esque notch back running at 10/10ths!
Keep this build thread going! And, I'm green with envy with your initial low-cost purchase of such a clean car to start with!!!
Cheers!
Keep this build thread going! And, I'm green with envy with your initial low-cost purchase of such a clean car to start with!!!
Cheers!
12-31-2013, 08:05 AM
#29
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Good luck making your plan work. I don't care what you do in reality. I do know, however, if you've got a base early 1965 Mustang(what you called a 64.5), average pricing is over $15,000.00 today and if you happen to have an 1965 GT convertible, those, in fine condition of course, can fetch more than $50,000.00 selling price.
Op, let me know how the build goes, i am looking at doing a LS1/ T-56 combo into mine this coming year.
12-31-2013, 08:52 AM
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thanks guys- i found this link to a resto i did a few years back on my 914 - http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=11788
and here is the link to the beginning of the mustang build on stangnet.com - http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...thread.870844/
here are a few of my full builds from the last ten years....
red car was stock when i bought it- full paintjob and suspension, engine rebuild- did autox and road course for two years
914 was dead stock previous restore, fixed rust, five lug conversion , backdated the motor and paint/suspension
turbo build was full coilovers, 380rwhp 2.5 4 cyl big turbo track car- awesome fast with full interior and big 968rs wing,vented nose etc...miss it
martini car was previous to this mustang, full track SPEC944 build, hanksville hotrod cage, spec motor, full suspension, custom fiberglass dash -raced one season and sold
911 was a color change for a guy i met- was rusty white- full respray and seals 71 t car
car on trailer- another spec car i redid body/interior/carbon dash/color change orange to 911gt3rs blackgrey with red accents- put a front end on it a year later
blue 944 respray for a buddy- no finished pics but won his class at speedfest a few months later- beat me out! bastard
flat black car- buddy of mine did a turbo motor swap- i did all bodywork and fiberglass nose, paint etc...was a cool car
turbo convertable- did turbo motor swap into s2cab and then respray, roof and upgrades- he totalled it a few months later
Alan vt951's LS1 swap - we put the motor in at my house and i made the headers- three years ago- engine is out now for a 383 stroker kit should be badass!
and here is the link to the beginning of the mustang build on stangnet.com - http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...thread.870844/
here are a few of my full builds from the last ten years....
red car was stock when i bought it- full paintjob and suspension, engine rebuild- did autox and road course for two years
914 was dead stock previous restore, fixed rust, five lug conversion , backdated the motor and paint/suspension
turbo build was full coilovers, 380rwhp 2.5 4 cyl big turbo track car- awesome fast with full interior and big 968rs wing,vented nose etc...miss it
martini car was previous to this mustang, full track SPEC944 build, hanksville hotrod cage, spec motor, full suspension, custom fiberglass dash -raced one season and sold
911 was a color change for a guy i met- was rusty white- full respray and seals 71 t car
car on trailer- another spec car i redid body/interior/carbon dash/color change orange to 911gt3rs blackgrey with red accents- put a front end on it a year later
blue 944 respray for a buddy- no finished pics but won his class at speedfest a few months later- beat me out! bastard
flat black car- buddy of mine did a turbo motor swap- i did all bodywork and fiberglass nose, paint etc...was a cool car
turbo convertable- did turbo motor swap into s2cab and then respray, roof and upgrades- he totalled it a few months later
Alan vt951's LS1 swap - we put the motor in at my house and i made the headers- three years ago- engine is out now for a 383 stroker kit should be badass!
Last edited by xsboost90; 12-31-2013 at 09:29 AM.
12-31-2013, 09:04 AM
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A 64.5 is just that, Not a 65. The 64.5 is the first year, or half year, mustang. It will be labeled as a 65, but there is a different code on the VIN to show it is a 64.5, I'll have to look at mine I forgot what it was. And the 64.5 gets rediculous pricing because it only came in coupe or Con'vt. No fastbacks. Also if it has the 260ci V8 it is worth significantly more since that was the only year the 260 was offered as a V8, the following year the 260 was a straight 6.
Op, let me know how the build goes, i am looking at doing a LS1/ T-56 combo into mine this coming year.
Op, let me know how the build goes, i am looking at doing a LS1/ T-56 combo into mine this coming year.
12-31-2013, 09:13 AM
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A 64.5 is just that, Not a 65. The 64.5 is the first year, or half year, mustang. It will be labeled as a 65, but there is a different code on the VIN to show it is a 64.5, I'll have to look at mine I forgot what it was. And the 64.5 gets rediculous pricing because it only came in coupe or Con'vt. No fastbacks. Also if it has the 260ci V8 it is worth significantly more since that was the only year the 260 was offered as a V8, the following year the 260 was a straight 6.
Op, let me know how the build goes, i am looking at doing a LS1/ T-56 combo into mine this coming year.
Op, let me know how the build goes, i am looking at doing a LS1/ T-56 combo into mine this coming year.
Ford labeled all Mustangs prior to the 1966 model with the 1st digit "5" and officially called them, by that digit, 1965 models(based on manufacturing standards, which became law in the 1980's). The 260 V8 was only offered in 1965 and only on the early run, as was a generator rather than alternator. The "way to tell" right off is the generator, but the VIN could be your helpful hint because Ford used U,F,D or K for the 1st run and T,C,A or K for the 2nd. The K code is actually the one everyone wants because it's the "HiPo" 271hp 289. The engine code is the 5th digit on these Mustangs. Also, the interior trim code can help, as Ford used different numbers for the "1964" vs 1965. For example: The early model for blue vinyl w/ blue trim is 82 and for 1965, it's 22. I've had both in the past and while I kinda miss them, they're not all that.
I've never heard of a 260ci Ford inline 6cyl engine for Mustang, but they did offer a 250ci 6 from 1969-73.
12-31-2013, 09:36 AM
#33
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here is the door tag from the stang- i looked it up a year ago- early 65 car built in MI with caspian blue code - i did find blue under the back of the car- and 260v8 code - cant remember stock int. color. Alot was changed on the car when i got it- different seats-67- different interior-someone added shoulder belts? - struts forward had been changed, ds quarter swapped and ps quarter hacked. Decent car but far from a real restoration candidate. I can appreciate keeping the stock cars around, but my dream is to track an old car and blow peoples mind. 
12-31-2013, 09:58 AM
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Yup, looks to me like that tag is definitely from a 1965 (early) Mustang and it had a blue interior initially as well as the 260 V8... I'd have brought that one back to stock and sold it for something not so uncommon, but whatever.
12-31-2013, 03:29 PM
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Btw, Edelbrock offers a cool Coyote package: Merely around $22,000.00 gets the whole thing... harness and all. Of course, it's a 700hp 600+ lb-ft complete assembly, but that's just not cheap! You could also spend about 12-13k and get a complete engine, transmission,, radiator and all front parts(used), plus the harness and it's ready to install(provided you have the vehicle and mounting points).
Back to whomever you were arguing with...
12-31-2013, 04:22 PM
#36
Put the LS in the mustang, have custom "ford Motorsport" valve covers made...maybe put the front water pump distributor on it. Most people wouldn't know its a GM engine!
Enjoy your hotrod....don't forget we are all gear heads!
Enjoy your hotrod....don't forget we are all gear heads!
Last edited by reedld; 12-31-2013 at 04:26 PM. Reason: Autocorrect typo
12-31-2013, 05:41 PM
#37
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not sure who Big Ed was talking to-maybe the wrong thread- i thought about a fake distributor on the top of the throttle body but thats just wrong....funny though. Maybe i'll carry a cap and wires and stick them on there at car shows.
12-31-2013, 06:47 PM
#38
Sorry guys, the posting person removed their post..
But thankfully I have instant notification about these things
Dear BigEd_72455,
elesquan has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - 64.5 Mustang conversion to 6.0 LY6 - in the Conversions & Hybrids forum of LS1TECH.
This thread is located at:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1696201-64-5-mustang-conversion-6-0-ly6-new-post.html
Here is the message that has just been posted:
***************
---Quote (Originally by BigEd_72455)---
Why would you put an overpriced underpowered engine into the fastback? LS engines are actually quite compact, EXTREMELY powerful and efficient little engines. Heck, my poor 5.3 still makes plenty of power in stock form, even with 230k miles on it before I got it. Enough to keep me happy while street driving.. Consider the cost benefits of the LS conversion before you go plop down the money for a Coyote engine.
---End Quote---
Well BigEd, some people are just kinda stupid that way. Like taking perfectly good fuel injection off of an engine to install a carb... Or wasting way too much time installing an LS1, and '98 camaro dash board etc. into an ugly el Camino...
But thankfully I have instant notification about these things
Dear BigEd_72455,
elesquan has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - 64.5 Mustang conversion to 6.0 LY6 - in the Conversions & Hybrids forum of LS1TECH.
This thread is located at:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1696201-64-5-mustang-conversion-6-0-ly6-new-post.html
Here is the message that has just been posted:
***************
---Quote (Originally by BigEd_72455)---
Why would you put an overpriced underpowered engine into the fastback? LS engines are actually quite compact, EXTREMELY powerful and efficient little engines. Heck, my poor 5.3 still makes plenty of power in stock form, even with 230k miles on it before I got it. Enough to keep me happy while street driving.. Consider the cost benefits of the LS conversion before you go plop down the money for a Coyote engine.
---End Quote---
Well BigEd, some people are just kinda stupid that way. Like taking perfectly good fuel injection off of an engine to install a carb... Or wasting way too much time installing an LS1, and '98 camaro dash board etc. into an ugly el Camino...
12-31-2013, 08:28 PM
#40
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lots to do on this car but currently im in the mood to get the motor brackets all squared away. Being a car i want to use on the road course and go through corners, keeping the weight down low helps alot with center of gravity. I want to drop my stock alternator down as low as possible and since im running a mustang rack, i want to run the mustang power steering pump so the lines will be compatable and fluids as well. I also want to mount the power steering on the passenger side so really using a factory chev pump would be about the same amount of work. SInce most the upgrades ive done to this car are from 94-04 mustangs (brakes/suspension/etc) i bought a late model power steering pump off the web in great shape, and a remote ps reservoir that i can mount on the fender or anywhere. The mustang pump has the same type six rib pulley as the chev motor, so its just a matter of lining the pulleys up and making an adapter to make it work.
SInce my thermostat is coming out the passenger side center of the motor, i need to route the belt around that, but otherwise i can replicate the low camaro vette mount or this aftermarket bracket i found on the web. I bought the smooth idler and two ribbed idlers tonite so when those come in i can measure everything, but now im planning on this route. This should let my factory tensioner work, and i left the alternator pulley the way it was to give as much area on the crank pulley as possible, otherwise the crank would only touch a few inches of the belt. Some brackets will be made and then extra bracing will be added im sure to keep things from twisting like the factory did. I could prob. use the factory vette drop bracket but since i have no ps above the alternator i need that third pulley so a custom bracket is in store. Guess i'll pull the motor out this week so i can fit the pan and mess with these....
SInce my thermostat is coming out the passenger side center of the motor, i need to route the belt around that, but otherwise i can replicate the low camaro vette mount or this aftermarket bracket i found on the web. I bought the smooth idler and two ribbed idlers tonite so when those come in i can measure everything, but now im planning on this route. This should let my factory tensioner work, and i left the alternator pulley the way it was to give as much area on the crank pulley as possible, otherwise the crank would only touch a few inches of the belt. Some brackets will be made and then extra bracing will be added im sure to keep things from twisting like the factory did. I could prob. use the factory vette drop bracket but since i have no ps above the alternator i need that third pulley so a custom bracket is in store. Guess i'll pull the motor out this week so i can fit the pan and mess with these....