gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I agree, I hate when people say that. A budget is just that, a budget which needs to be a realistic representation of money (and often time) required to complete a task.

Each project I start with an end goal. Then I lay out the parts required for the build and get a rough timeline. Once I know what parts I'll need, I start thinking of how much each part is going to cost and if I am being excessive in some area or need to put more money on something else.

I realize things happen that aren't accounted for, but with good research and planning you should be able to stay reasonably close to target. The problem I typically see where projects wither and die is in unplanned or unnecessary upgrades and unrealistic goals. The $2500 plus shipping accessory drive isn't better than the $600 shipped Corvette accessory drive on a car that isn't a show vehicle. That $1900 savings for some could be the difference between finishing the car this year vs. next or not at all.

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

I completely agree! If you stick to a plan, you can reasonably calculate a budget if you put the effort into being fully informed on all aspects. Im about 5k over budget, but also 2 years later, as life gets in the way. Goals changed and i was shooting at a moving target, so to me that 5k over is reasonable.

llorracs93s10

iTrader: (5)

For me, and I am going through the struggle right now is go with something that has a backing of a warranty of sorts. I got all my stuff ran, motor trans and all hooked up to find out the trans is bad. My fault but I overlooked the trans just thinking it be ok. So mine would be :

-Buy from a reputable company instead of private sale
-Cheaper parts are cheap for a reason.....buy quality parts
-budget more for the ''cheaper'' items that all add up rather than concerning with the larger $$ items. I know you can not foresee a sensor needing replacing or something small like that but they tend to bit you in the *** when you add them all up!

Other than that, I am happy with how mine has gone. Took time to route, splice and tuck wires as much as possible. Painted everything I wanted to prior to install, and did a bunch of research on what fits with what does not. I did take a chance on my headers since most have never had a comment on the headers I went with for my swap but turns out they fit pretty damn well.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

To add to my earlier comments with some more learned lessons:

1. Use good quality V-band assemblies or be prepared to refab

2. Use good quality exhaust components, they see a lot of punishment.

3. Try to get OEM quality sensors.

4. Plan out your suspension. This is one of the most overlooked areas and it really can add up quickly. Buying things twice sucks as you will never get the money all the way back out of your original purchase (unless you are a lucky *** like my buddy Sanders).

5. Do the fuel system right and plan for more than what you think you will need. There is rarely such a thing as too much in this category. I don't know how many times I have seen people try to skimp and get the smallest injectors and pump that they think they can squeak by with only to need more. I however have 160 lb injectors on my set up and probably only use 75% of the injector. But if I desire to turn the boost up, they are always still there. Much better than having to sell them off and get new ones.

6. Don't skimp on exhaust wrap. It really is not much more to get the good stuff in the long term scheme of things. The cheap stuff sucks and will become brittle. Ask me how I know...

7. As mentioned above, build up the drivetrain first. It is a lot better to have it before the power so you are not blowing things up. No it is not as fun, but it sure feels better knowing you are not going to have a transmission coming through your leg at any moment when doing a 800 hp pull.

8. If going automatic, get the right torque converter custom spec'd for your eventual situation. You can always get it worked on in the future, but it is nice to already have it and not have to rip the transmission back out.

9. When in doubt, get stickier tires than you think you will need. I can tell first hand, the 555R Nittos I bought are just not working at anything over 12 psi of boost. If you are making the power, get the rubber to put it to the road. It is scary as crap having the back end come out from under you at 70 mph!!

10. Ask questions or find a mentor that may have done a similar swap. It really can help.

11. Research! This is a great forum for finding out information. Make sure your Google-FU is up to the task and do some searching.

nasty64

Great thread for guys like myself in the middle of a build. Thanks for those who took time to write there experiences.

Albertan

I did an LSX swap with T56 in my 97 3 series BMW. I took my time and did everything right. Only regret is now I have a 600 hp engine that is really loud
everywhere. 90db while cruising. Also I think 600 hp will never get used.
Now I am looking to put on factory Corvette coil covers, wrapping the SS headers and finding a noise cancelling muffler that I can use. I now have headers, perforated cones in the headers, cats, x pipe, Moroso race mufflers and Vibrant resonators all in 2 3" dual stainless exhaust system. It looks beautiful. My wife doesn't even want to ride with me. It is supposed to be a road car!

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

I guess I am getting old as well. My car can be deafening when the wastegates open up under boost. My wife could not decide if she wanted to hold on or cover her ears.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

WooHoo!! I'm "infamous"!!!

I don't know that I'd really change anything on any of my builds, but when I start a new one, I do include the lessons learned from the previous builds. That said, I do sometimes wish I had turbo'd the Truckster as was the first intention. Sadly it was going to be too much money, time and worst part, space eating, I couldn't figure out how to fit it in and keep the A/C, and knowing it was going to be a Power Tour car, the air had to stay. but still, it would have made it even more awesome!

My Nova, I kind of wish it was a 6 speed, but that could be fairly easily changed.

My trucks I've been pretty happy with.

My '33 Ford, well it REALLY needs tailpipes, the drone without them is awful, but there's no easy way to get them above the axle because like a dumb *** I left the stock crossmember in it. I may run them under the axle still.

But all in all, I've been happy with my swaps and am happy helping other people do the same things I enjoy.

TEDSgrad

Stay true to your build philosophy!

New parts can always tempt a person away from intended use. Most here are drag orientated, so I have to sift through info to fit my build - street agility and comfort with some HPDE.
As long as this car is the one in the driveway that begs to be driven anytime, anywhere, I've accomplished my task. I can justify the expense if I drive the value out of it and smile doing it.

Also, if you love it, never sell it (original owner, here).

LS1PUNK

iTrader: (5)

I should of just bought a pro-mod.

Ian Johnston

I tried to do my 1978 pickup LS1 conversion on the cheap. No parts out here in Australia, so had to make all my own mounts etc.
I am mostly happy with the way it went, probably should have put a bit more time and effort into the wiring. It looks scruffy.
Radiator and hoses could have been different.
All my issues can be sorted out at a later date if I ever get motivated. I need more shed room to be able to do easier work on the truck as well.
I have a couple of issues, oil leak at sump, and trans problem, once they are sorted, I want to put some miles on it, and see how it goes then.

usdmholden

One thing I wish I had done which was mentioned above was to not buy an fbody dropout. I wish I had just bought the engine and trans and EFI separate and component parts. I still am less money into the dropout even with the changes I made than I would have been rather than piecing things together, but by piecing things together I would have had alot better parts for about $1500 more. IE Holley HP EFI vs OEM EFI, T56 Magnum vs OEM T56, etc. Ironically myself and MustangLS chatted about this at length via PM before I started the project and I still made the wrong decision.

Also, don't let ideology get in your way and cause you to focus on small details which are not truly important towards the end goal. For example, I spent alot of time working on a long tube header design, which I could have put off until later, and ultimately did put off until later. Had I not spent the time on the headers, I would be about three months ahead of where I am with the project.

Another thing I learned from previous build which were not LSx builds, and many people may disagree with me:

For a street car, don't make the assumption that you should "do it right the first time" and overdo the build and spend way more money than you needed to and delay the project for a long period of time. For a street car, I believe the best path is to get it running and moving under it's own power and then use it and enjoy it. A "do it all right the first time" style never ending project normally ends with a fire sale part out.

If you are building a race car, build a race car. Don't build something in between which is sort of race and sort of street and not really very good at either.

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

I should have asked more questions on when I had my harness done. My new motor is a LS3 and the cam shaft position sensor is up front and so is the map sensor, went to the 5 wire MAF (has the iat built in it unlike LS1)
So I bought
extended O2 pigtails,
extended harness for Map
extended harness for camshaft position sensor
Fuel injector fittings to LS3 style
Extended harness for knock sensors (LS3 on side of block)
Pigtail to go from 3 wire MAF to 5 wire MAF
So thats way over 150.00
I thought I was going to do my own harness but decided to send it off to make it a standalone for 250.00 from LSX HARNESS and then he calls and everything I listed he would have done included in the price. WOW
oh yes he also included the OB2 port and fan relays and fuse box for a little extra.
I didnt do my HOMEWORK so I paid.

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

Mine has been on the road for 8 years and 30k miles and I am very happy with it. Like Oscar I wish I would have gone with a little more cam right at the start and am still considering that today. I wish I would have planned a cold air induction from the start, I have since created one, but I think I could have done better if I had built it that way to begin with. The cooler IAT makes a big difference. I would not have used the aftermarket thermostat housing with an old style SBC thermostat. That caused me a lot of cooling problems and long time to figure out while buying things I did not need trying to fix it. I need a straight housing and have since found one that uses a later model LS T-stat that is not built into the housing. On the car itself I would have done my rear suspension differently, but that is not LS Swap related. I wanted to put a triangulated 4 link in and got talked out of it, going with a modified leaf spring set up.

There are other things I would do differently now given the wealth of LS swap parts that have come on the market in the last 8 years, in particular the options for mounting an AC compressor. But I had to work with what was available and affordable at the time.

Pat

1989GTA

Stu made a good point. Plan ahead for a cold air induction system. Such as where it is going to go, the routing and what style radiator will give the right outlet locations so that a cold air pipe will pass by with no problems. I already had experience with a CAI on another car before I built my 65 Skylark so it was not a problem with me. However I have seen others struggling with the issue. A good CAI will make a nice difference in power.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

1) Should have built a forged motor from jump street.
2) Should have opened the trans tunnel up before the motor and trans went in.
3) Should have went with a Reid or ATI SFI case (see number 2).
4) Should have went with an aftermarket EFI system (Holley HP is in the cards).
5) Should have built the driveline, chassis, suspension, and fuel system before building the engine (and I knew better than to do this, lol).

Mine isn't too far away from running with full gear, so I'd figure I'd share mine.

oldgoat69

About the only things I would have done differently are related to the wiring harness and ECU/TCM. If I really knew what my expectations would have turned out to be I would have started out with the E40/T42 and built the harness differently right from the get go. I should have just gone ahead and had the custom AC lines built in the first place.
My philosophy is that I will finally get it right on the third try, so I am right on plan since most everything has been at least slightly modified from the original layout.
The next generation of the car will see a much later 58 tooth reluctor engine and 6L80 trans. As time goes on I may just wait and go the LTX and 8 speed. The plan all along was to swap an LS into my S10, and I already have the LQ4/4L60 so..............

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

In addition to my GTO, I have built two second generation RX7s. The first RX7 was actually my first swap and that was done in 2003-2004. I will start with some general suggestions and then I'll talk about each swap.

General

1. Establish a "philosophy of use" for the car. This is the single biggest source of frustration and "do-overs" in any project. Just like we don't use a hammer when what we really need is a screwdriver, a car can't be expected to do everything well. This isn't to say that build a "street" car isn't a legitimate philosophy of use, but if you want a street car, then actually build a street car!

2. Start with the nicest donor car that you can afford. Again, this will depend on the philosophy of use, but in general, the less body work you have to do, the better.

3. Be realistic with your budget and also with your mechanical skills. If you know that you can't weld, or do other sorts of heavy fabrication, make sure that you figure that into the budget.

Second Gen RX7 (FC)

1. Use swap parts from Ronin and none else. Joel (from Ronin) is an actual engineer and all of his parts are built very well.

2. Include a rear end swap in the price of the total conversion because TII rear ends are getting very hard to find, and are marginally adequate, at best.

3. If you can find a no sun-roof car, go with that.

GM 64-72 A-body swap

1. Use the new Holley pan.

2. Don't use mounts that push the engine too far to the rear.

3. When Holley comes out with mounts for the A-bodies, use them. They are the only company that seem to understand all the issue that are involved when doing a LS swap. Bad things can happen with driveline angle if mounts are not done right.

4. Big, fancy radiators are probably overkill. I have one and it was needed for the BBC that was in the car before, but the LS engine doesn't need it.

I can't really think of anything else, but I am always happy to answer questions.

Andrew

33willys

iTrader: (1)

Street rods are never finished! Far from my first street rod so I knew what it would be used for...travel. To meet that goal requires smooth ride, good gas mileage, comfort and RELIABILITY. In between upgrades, mods and just plain tweeks the idea is to drive the bitch!

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

I've had 5 LSx engines and 3 different SC setups in my firebird over the last few years

First and foremost: establish a goal and know when enough is enough

Next, don't skimp on the wiring or fuel system

If you can fab, build your own mounts and trans crossmember. I've never seen aftermarket fit properly out of the box

KISS, there's a lot to juggle with a conversion. Don't over complicate things

Paint the damn engine bay (maybe one of these days I'll learn that one)

Break the swap into subsystems like fuel, exhaust, electrical etc. have a solution for everything before beginning the conversion. This research and parts collecting phases prevents the 2+ year builds that snowball out of control. A swap should last under a month, mostly wrench turning. Don't focus too much on the engine, that's the cheap part

I'll say it again, don't skimp on the wiring. If it needs coil covers to look presentable, you didn't do a good job