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None really. It's just about a 1/4 clearance from the sump to the I-beam. I would have liked to have more than that but so far after 500 miles of driving I've had no issue. I have pushed the beam all the way up and it clears. Just worried about suspension wear down the road. But if it gets that bad I probably couldn't drive it anyway. LOL
Solid axle truck should have about 2-3" between sump and cross member. Steering column shaft and exhaust issue with most manifolds, headers(no issues), heater box issue without body lift.
Do you know of headers that would fit or be close, I'm looking at the ls3 manifolds also, trying to figure out what I need before I set the motor in so it goes kinda smooth. Not doing a body lift. And I figured as much on the airbox
Sanderson makes some shorties that resemble the 5.0 swap headers. Just remember the GEN III/IV engine is about the same size as the 351 Windsor. So they may or may not work without mods to clear the steering shaft(intermediate shaft). To make your life a whole lot easier I'd get rid of the double rag joint shaft and put in a u joint shaft for more clearance. That's my next upgrade.
Slots are facing the rear for the passenger side unmodified. drivers side I cut the tabs off and welded them dead center due to the engine crossmember being offset to the back on the driver side. I drilled new holes in crossmember and bolted them in.
I used the ford pump. I made a small bracket that mounts to the GM bracket. part of my truck bracket was broken and the engine didn't come with a P/S pump or Alternator. I also used the Ford alternator.
I used the ford pump. I made a small bracket that mounts to the GM bracket. part of my truck bracket was broken and the engine didn't come with a P/S pump or Alternator. I also used the Ford alternator.
Any pics of the mounts before you slid the engine in?
I've got a 97 and looking to turn it into a weekend play toy/drag truck
I think a cammed 5.3 with a 150 shot would be perfect
Any pics of the mounts before you slid the engine in?
I've got a 97 and looking to turn it into a weekend play toy/drag truck
I think a cammed 5.3 with a 150 shot would be perfect
Imade some for a 2007 ranger, shouldnt be to hard to replicate.
Imade some for a 2007 ranger, shouldnt be to hard to replicate.
Those are nice looking mounts. How did you clear the TIB with the engine that far forward? Using a truck pan like I did the engine sits about 3 inches back farther than yours. OOPs I see it's an 07. Those would still work if the motor plate was welded farther back. The cross member is offset on a 93-98. So the driver side would look almost exactly like the one pictured and passenger side with the motor plate welded towards the rear.
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 05-04-2015 at 06:32 AM.
Those are nice looking mounts. How did you clear the TIB with the engine that far forward? Using a truck pan like I did the engine sits about 3 inches back farther than yours. OOPs I see it's an 07. Those would still work if the motor plate was welded farther back. The cross member is offset on a 93-98. So the driver side would look almost exactly like the one pictured and passenger side with the motor plate welded towards the rear.
In this particular truck the engine sat right up against the firewall. The mounts had slots for each bolt so the engine could move forward or back to make up for the offset on the k member. Truck pan and 4l80, those sat super flush.
nice thanks for the pictures, I have a welder and some decent fab skills but I really wish someone would make a bolt in kit. I plan to completely gut the truck except for a heater and just make a small dash for the necessary gauges.
So both of you used the truck truck pans and they fit fine so thats a plus, mine is a TIB like the 94. I will probably try and build some out side the frame rail headers.
What did you do for fuel pump and fuel lines?
nice thanks for the pictures, I have a welder and some decent fab skills but I really wish someone would make a bolt in kit. I plan to completely gut the truck except for a heater and just make a small dash for the necessary gauges.
So both of you used the truck truck pans and they fit fine so thats a plus, mine is a TIB like the 94. I will probably try and build some out side the frame rail headers.
What did you do for fuel pump and fuel lines?
I'm still running the Ford 2.3 fuel pump and lines with a microgard 33737 filter/regulator with some dorman quick connects. a mustang in tank pump should fit the Ranger though and I'm going to upgrade mine because it quits pulling at about 4800 rpm. truck pan works ok. if you have it in your budget a muscle car pan would work better. truck pan is a tight fit with a TIB and limits the positioning of the engine. I'm at about 10k miles on the swap(about 100/day to and from work). It's my daily driver.
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 05-11-2015 at 06:33 AM.
what oil pan did you use?also what exhaust manifolds did you use?i tried to install my ls1 this week and my truck pan hit my i beam and couldnt slide it forward hardly so when cab cam down it hit on fire wall. i think if i use a vette oil pan the measures 5.5 inches in depth ill be ok. i had some ls2 manifolds and they didnt work either. i thnk if i flip my truck manifoldi can maybe squeez the motoe in.
12-14-2014, 06:56 AM
