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Do you have a pic of the steering/oil pan clearance with the suspension loaded? I'm using the autokraft pan and Doug's plates with short and wide mounts with no cite rod clearance at all
I do not have a picture showing the car on the ground with the oil pan installed. As soon as I get it off the jack stands I will do that and post it. However, that probably won't be for soem time.
Got the POR15 on it. It actually was pretty easy to work with, and the smell is not anything awful. Kind of like painting with an oil base paint.
I bought my Dynamat Extreme and the roller today from eBay. Any suggestions on how to install?
Very nice. My suggestion on the Dynamat is to lay it out for an hour or so in the sun before you start. This way, it will be more pliable. Then use either a hairdryer or heat gun. Heat it up as you lay it down. You'll need more than just the roller to get it into the crevasses. It's pretty easy though.
I have a few things to do in regards to my next line items on the car. There is mounting the pedal and cabling system, mounting the shifter and the interior wiring project. However, before I can get to the wiring piece I would like to figure out the best route for me to go on my dash. I do have the original dash with gauges, which by the way does not have a tach.
So initially I was thinking about just buying some late model gauges from Auto Meter, and then pushing them into this dash. However, another anlternative that some members had me check out was Dakota Digital, and Classic Dash. They have the platic molded dashes with the gauges all ready to go. They sure are a bit expensive, but they have everything.
Car is coming along nicely. We are starting on the American Autowire Classic Update this week. I also got in my Dakota Digital Gauges. Here are a few pictures of the progress.
Now I have a couple of rookie questions. I am running the Canton 15-274 oil pan. I am looking for a dipstick for the pan, and also a dipstick for the transmission. The transmission is a 4L80E.
I tried the junkyard route down here in Houston. That was not fruitful at all as all the LS stuff is not in the junkyards. They pull that right out before it ever hits the yards alot of the time.
I even called Canton, and they recommended I run a universal dipstick b/c there is no special opening in the pan for the stick. So now I am trying to figure out which stick to go with here. It seems so easy, but I just want to make sure I get the right one, for my setup.
I have seen people on here running Lokar with very mixed results, and I also would not like to spend over $50 on a dipstick and tube. Thanks any help is much appreciated.
Do your inner tie rods clear the oil pan when turning lock to lock? You are making great progress, Keep it up.
We have not gotten the alignment done yet, but the tie rods do not clear lock to lock. However, I can get about 3/4 of the way left and right. I think we should be ok with that kind of ratio. We tried to keep the motor and trans just as low as possible. Even then it was tough to get the long tube headers to fit under the car.
The one thing that might help the header clearance a bit is that we will be doing a full body mount replacement later this month, with all Energy Suspension mounts.
We have not gotten the alignment done yet, but the tie rods do not clear lock to lock. However, I can get about 3/4 of the way left and right. I think we should be ok with that kind of ratio. We tried to keep the motor and trans just as low as possible. Even then it was tough to get the long tube headers to fit under the car.
The one thing that might help the header clearance a bit is that we will be doing a full body mount replacement later this month, with all Energy Suspension mounts.
Can you clearance the pan a little? How much clearance does it need? You will miss that turn radius the first U turn you attempt. The body mounts will do nothing for clearance.
07-27-2015, 09:11 PM
