Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Hi guys,

I've got the dang thing idling and ready to start doing some actual tuning..

I went to connect my knock sensor harness (extension) and there is only about 3/4" between the knock sensor connector and the header. These are Sanderson "LS1" block hugger headers in 1-5/8" size. I'm in a CJ7 so not a lot of options.

Things I've thought of:

cut the connector down on the knock sensor(the little white plastic tower) and take apart the extension harness and solder that sucker together - will I encounter any issues there other than having to repeat if/when I replace the sensors?

move the knock sensor to another hole in the block(lots of cursing here as it's /in/ the Jeep now and NOT coming back out before I get to drive it) - will I ever get my sensitivity settings right? I do still have the right drill bit and tap for the LS1 sensors but space is a bit tight

Disable knock sensors(possible?) and run conservative timing and always run premium fuel(93 readily available here)

These are listed in my order of current preference but getting a little impatient now so would greatly appreciate your input.

Thanks!

lsxRanger94

Since knock sensors of pick up the frequency of detonation and not normal engine noise(e.g. valve train noise), what about mounting them on the head or towards the front of the engine.

lsxRanger94

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Thanks guys!! I am strongly considering the alternate spots. Do you think I will do any wrong if I chop the sensor insulator down and solder the wire to it?

Thanks again.

lsxRanger94

I'd solder a piece of fusable link between there just in case. The worst that could happen is not work or blow the link. But try the alternate spots first.

lsxRanger94

What about the push on connector that Ford uses to engage their starter solenoid like on a foxbody? Instead of fitting on inside of sensor terminal it would grip the outside.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...FcGPMgodlgIAYw

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I like your first option. Maybe Solder a pigtail onto the sensor. Still requires custom work when servicing but it would be a tiny bit more serviceable when pulling either engine / harness without the other.

KRAZY K 2000 TA

iTrader: (5)

it wont pick up a damn thing anyways in that location,ask how i know.

usdmholden

The alternative holes in the image above are the motor mount bolt holes. I guess you could still use the two holes closest to the trans surface assuming there is nothing there.

Why not just swap out to the LS2 knock sensors?

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

@jmd - I am liking that option more as well. I am unable to get drill access to the alternate locations with the engine in the vehicle.

@usdmholden - Well I had the LS2 sensors but those are 2-wire sensors and I have LS1-type(truck, actually) PCM and harness(one-wire knock sensor)

@ 2000 TA - What spot are you referring to? I plan to have to change the sensitivity in the tune but assumed that at least the LS2 spot was suitable.

@lsxranger - I'm going to try to dig up one of my old knock sensors and do a little surgery on it to see if that connector might work once the sensor insulator is whittled down. Hoping I still have a bad one around.

Thanks guys for your help.

EFIHARNESS

Try to keep it on the block .They are a tuned microphone so you can solder a lead to it
No need for a fuseable link as no current is involved. You can just not connect them,
but they do work to prevent detonation. Steve

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

I can't find my old knock sensors(must have tossed them) but should have the vehicle back from the exhaust shop today. I will likely be cutting the insulator down, soldering a pigtail on, then filling the end with some sort of epoxy or similar to keep the bad stuff out.

I was thinking of just spraying the whole body of the sensors with some kind of protectant--maybe the "liquid electrical tape" I have-- to keep corrosion down(except for the stud of course). These things seems to be sexually attracted to moisture as they always seem to rust within a week.

I think I'm already convinced this won't affect anything but any thoughts anyone? Any good lead on a two-part weatherproof single-wire connector I can use for this that is readily available at a local parts store?

Thanks!

EFIHARNESS

Weatherpack connector, it is the same style pins as the ls1 knock. Steve

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Those are readily available at O'Reilly or similar? If so, would I have to ask for it? I just haven't seen such an animal at the parts store and the guys behind the counter these days don't know anything by its proper name. But off to look in a few!

lsxRanger94

Have them pull the Borg-warner book and look through the terminals and connectors

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

So I did some exploring this weekend and found that CarQuest does stock some of the Weather Pack connector shells but none of the pins or seals. O'Reilly lists the pins and seals but no stores actually carry them. Advance and NAPA didn't carry them in-store. Pep Boys had packs of just the female connectors and no male and I had to leave Autozone when the workers were so befuddled by my request they began to question the existence of these parts. SO I'll have the connectors here Tuesday ala Amazon and for a couple bucks each for male, female, pins, seals kit. Hopefully I'll have it all soldered up this week.