When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was told by my tuner than without the BCM, the PCM (e38 computer in my case) can be programmed to command the alternator actively. I have a Gen IV engine, too.
So, I think the alternator issue might just be a matter of configuring properly with the tune.
I was told by my tuner than without the BCM, the PCM (e38 computer in my case) can be programmed to command the alternator actively. I have a Gen IV engine, too.
So, I think the alternator issue might just be a matter of configuring properly with the tune.
Doug
Yes to a point. I have done so with mine. There are a couple of boxes to check so you don't get codes etc and let the ECM know. However the voltage regulator is set up to receive a PWM signal from the ECM. Without one it goes to the default mode of 13.8 volts at best and does not do IMHO a good job of regulating in that mode. My battery will slowly go down over time as I have found out. If you don't have much of a load it may work fine or are doing mostly highway driving. Stop and go with lots of idle time at lights etc not so good.
On my car I am going to convert the alternator(DR44) back to a 4
pin voltage regulator by swapping out the 2 pin that is currently in there. Then I will wire it up with F going to a switched voltage source and L having a 560 ohm resistor inline going to a switched voltage source. As of now I plan on using S (sense voltage) to my terminal strip. P, I will not use.
So I got that bolt out. For something that you think would be easy, was I stressed.
Here's my next problem. I wanted to set the engine in place to take measurements and found that my frame mounts are not giving me enough clearance with the holley plates, energy suspension motor mounts and the GM performance pan. What frame mount works? Its a 1971 Chevelle and thats a L92 with a 6L80 behind it.
Also, you can use other engine plates/adapters to move the engine into the position you like.
Dingo Slider SBC or BBC to LS Conversion Engine Mounts
It also moves the engine up 1/4 of inch so your pan may clear.
Since you are using a 6ll80/90 you may want to move the engine forward so you dont have to cut so much out of the tunnel.
I think you are at 1 inch set back / stock SBC bellhousing location. That will move that big 6l80e back a bit and you need a new transmission crossmember. BTW too far forward and you mess with the balance and run out of space in front of the engine.
Also, you can use other engine plates/adapters to move the engine into the position you like.
Dingo Slider SBC or BBC to LS Conversion Engine Mounts
It also moves the engine up 1/4 of inch so your pan may clear.
Since you are using a 6ll80/90 you may want to move the engine forward so you dont have to cut so much out of the tunnel.
I think you are at 1 inch set back / stock SBC bellhousing location. That will move that big 6l80e back a bit and you need a new transmission crossmember. BTW too far forward and you mess with the balance and run out of space in front of the engine.
Thanks for the info. Im getting the trans tunnel redone anyway so I hope keeping it in the stock location will make everything else easier. I think the super chevy article I got my swap info from listed the wrong energy suspension mount. They said to use 3.1114 which is short and wide. I hope the correct one is 3.1117 which is tall and narrow. We'll see. Hope this helps
This brings up an interesting question I've been pondering... How are you guys adjusting the engine/trans to get the correct driveline angle? Just by flexing the rubber/poly in the engine mounts? Looking at the DD slider mounts, I'm sure there is a little bit of play for angle adjustment, but not a whole lot?
I've been trying to wrap my head around making an engine mount/adapter that could pivot for driveline angle adjustment without putting stress on the rubbers, but also slide for maximum adjustability... Am I over thinking this? In my mind there would be a benefit to a set of engine mounts that could pivot?
When bought my adapter plates I decided to purchase the dingo double Ds, I liked the adjustability but didn't like the idea of the sliders. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the sliders just felt I liked the idea of a fixed mount.
Last edited by Broon72; 03-15-2015 at 10:42 AM.
Reason: didnt make sense
When bought my adapter plates I decided to purchase the dingo double Ds, I liked the adjustability but didn't like the idea of the sliders. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the sliders just felt I liked the idea of a fixed mount.
Thanks for the insight... I'm still on the fence about the engine mounts. I'm pretty sure I have figured out the way to go about making ones that slide as well as pivot, just trying to decide if there would really be any benefit to the pivot action still?
No progress on the car. I have rented a space to work on the car as I don't really have the room where it's at to properly move forward with it. I will be towing the car there tomorrow. Hope to also get the engine on the stand this weekend and maybe start disassembling it if I have time.
Well I got the Chevelle into it's new temporary home while I do this swap...
Got the engine separated from the transmission and on the engine stand...
Took the engine down to the short block...
For those wondering, the interior is pretty hammered, and will need a lot of work...
I started working on the harness, I'm looking into the BP-Automative LSX DIY harness mod kit. I have an email into them asking a couple questions before I order it, currently waiting for a response. Using my complete G8 runner for reference on the harness while I try to reconnect the X1 plug.
Also made this "hub centric" spacer setup to rub between the rotor and wheel, hopefully this will solve my wheel centering problem and the brakes on the one side will be complete
Need to sit down and pick out a cam. I have a circle D 258mm 2b converter on the way, waiting on some LS3 ported heads. Also need the Bp-auto harness mod to finish the harness, and AFM/DOD delete parts need to be ordered.
I took advantage of the Speedhut march madness sale and purchased a 6 gauge kit yesterday before the sale ended. Went with the GPS speedometer to simplify life.
Regarding the camshaft the hot ticket these days is the Low Lash Solid Roller cam from Cam Motion. A lot of good reports are flowing in about it. I am seriously looking into it for my car.
Regarding the camshaft the hot ticket these days is the Low Lash Solid Roller cam from Cam Motion. A lot of good reports are flowing in about it. I am seriously looking into it for my car.
Looks like a nice option from what I've read so far, but dumping an extra ~$1000 on adjustable rockers really isn't in my budget...
I'm leaning towards the BTR LS3 stage II cam kit at the moment.
Doing my swap in my current single car garage is a pain, I might do like you did and rent a space to complete. It has been ridiculous trying to take anything apart in such a small space. Really enjoying your build cant wait to see the chevelle milled into the calipers.
Doing my swap in my current single car garage is a pain, I might do like you did and rent a space to complete. It has been ridiculous trying to take anything apart in such a small space. Really enjoying your build cant wait to see the chevelle milled into the calipers.
Renting the space to work on the car has been good for me. Not necessarily for my wallet though. It's a 23x24 storage unit, but has lights, 110v power and 24hr gated access. Its costing me $245 a month for it, but it really encourages me to work on the car more as it costs me money to keep it there. Once the engine is it and the car is drivable, I won't need it anymore.
I did work on the car some more today. The modified truck pan I bought didn't come with a windage tray... The modified pick up tube does not clear the g8 tray. I'm not certain it would even clear one for a truck? Have to do some research, switch trays or modify the g8 pick up to work with the modified truck pan.
Took some more crap of the engine, cleaned the piston tops the best I could. I stripped out one of the cam holder plate torx bolts, hopefully I can manage to get it out.
I ordered a cam from Comp spec'ed by yours truly. Afm/DOD delete and valve spring kit from btr on the way, as well as the harness mod kit from Bp auto
The only way to get an LS engine into an A-Body GM is to use the Holley 302-2 oil pan. As it's over an inch shallower in the front. By the time you raise the front of the engine to clear your tie rods, the driveline angle will be very severe. This will cause serious driveline vibrations.
Regarding those 8 oil supply stands in the valley area of your block, I have seen people drill and tap them and put in a set screw with Lock-tite to prevent oil from from leaking by. It could cause a slight drop in oil pressure depending on how severe the leak(s) were. Others just put on the flat valley cover with the o-rings and call it good.
The only way to get an LS engine into an A-Body GM is to use the Holley 302-2 oil pan. As it's over an inch shallower in the front. By the time you raise the front of the engine to clear your tie rods, the driveline angle will be very severe. This will cause serious driveline vibrations.
Russ Kemp
Thanks for your input, but I find it hard to believe the 302-2 pan is the only way to get an LS engine into a A Body. The pan has only just come out and people have been swapping LS engines into everything under the sun for what? 15+ years now? If this modified truck pan I have can't be made to work, I will consider the 302-2 pan as my next option.
Originally Posted by 1989GTA
Regarding those 8 oil supply stands in the valley area of your block, I have seen people drill and tap them and put in a set screw with Lock-tite to prevent oil from from leaking by. It could cause a slight drop in oil pressure depending on how severe the leak(s) were. Others just put on the flat valley cover with the o-rings and call it good.
Sooo, I could have just kept my AFM/DOD valley cover and just plugged those oil supply stands? If so, dang... Could have saved $100 towards my 302-2 pan that it sounds like I'm going to have to buy
I have an LS3 valley cover coming with my DOD delete kit I have ordered from BTR and was planning on just putting it on with the orings. Isn't that how it's installed from the factory? Do you recommend plugging them?
I also ordered this "Chevrolet Performance High Volume Oil Pump p/n# 17801830" to go on my engine. With as many problems as I've read with oil pumps in the past I didn't really want to put an oil pump with 100k miles on it back on a "fresh" engine... I've also read that DOD/AFM oil pumps are high pressure? Guys that delete the DOD/AFM and retaining that pump showing oil pressures of 70-90psi? I figured a new "normal" pump would be the way to go.
"I have an LS3 valley cover coming with my DOD delete kit I have ordered from BTR and was planning on just putting it on with the orings. Isn't that how it's installed from the factory? Do you recommend plugging them?"
I have seen a lot of builders just "plug" them. Maybe it was done so they did not have to buy the other valley pan etc. I was also thinking they were doing it for the "insurance" that there would be no oil leaks from that area.
03-10-2015, 01:44 AM
