TomM's - LSA Powered - 66 Nova Coupe...
11-18-2015, 08:55 AM
#48
So, I installed the Lokar kit for a column shift. All went as planned, plenty of clearance and got the selector dialed in at the transmission where the range of travel is correct. If you move it too far back the stroke is too short on the column selector, too far forward and the stroke is too long and won't let you select all the gears. About in the middle is just right...
I did notch the frame support to clear the bolt, but don't think it was needed since I set the engine forward 1". Clears the headers, gets all gears and feels factory...
Next up was the compressor install. I used the Alan grove bracket for a Corvette. Part number 144R A.C. They say it may not work for the LSA, but it does........
A few items of note....
I did move the engine forward as I have said numerous times, probably solely for this reason. The engine frame stand needs to have a hole drilled in it to keep one of the rear compressor bolts from hitting. I used a Sanden 508 compressor, but I understand that the Sanden 708 is almost .25" shorter, so it "might" not hit. I have decided to switch to the Sanden SD7 as it is shorter all the way around. The compressor front ear to pulley distance is less than 1/4" difference, so belt alignment won't be an issue.
Also, I will rework the bracket to allow access to the compressor fittings, as the current configuration won't let that happen. In addition, the #8 fitting on the compressor is very close. Vintage Air makes a "tight fit" fitting, but it might not clear. Too many "might's" for me, so I am switching compressors. Having said all that, the reason it worked on past builds is the accessories were f-body style which is over an inch forward of the Corvette/ CTS accessories drives...
If you will notice in the picture, the supplied tensioner clears the CBR rack just fine...
That is all for now.
T,
I did notch the frame support to clear the bolt, but don't think it was needed since I set the engine forward 1". Clears the headers, gets all gears and feels factory...
Next up was the compressor install. I used the Alan grove bracket for a Corvette. Part number 144R A.C. They say it may not work for the LSA, but it does........
A few items of note....
I did move the engine forward as I have said numerous times, probably solely for this reason. The engine frame stand needs to have a hole drilled in it to keep one of the rear compressor bolts from hitting. I used a Sanden 508 compressor, but I understand that the Sanden 708 is almost .25" shorter, so it "might" not hit. I have decided to switch to the Sanden SD7 as it is shorter all the way around. The compressor front ear to pulley distance is less than 1/4" difference, so belt alignment won't be an issue.
Also, I will rework the bracket to allow access to the compressor fittings, as the current configuration won't let that happen. In addition, the #8 fitting on the compressor is very close. Vintage Air makes a "tight fit" fitting, but it might not clear. Too many "might's" for me, so I am switching compressors. Having said all that, the reason it worked on past builds is the accessories were f-body style which is over an inch forward of the Corvette/ CTS accessories drives...
If you will notice in the picture, the supplied tensioner clears the CBR rack just fine...
That is all for now.
T,
11-22-2015, 08:13 PM
#49
TECH Resident
Couple questions:
1. Where did the AC tensioner come from? Any way you can measure how much below the oil pan block interface it hangs?
2. Why the CBR suspension parts instead of DSE or heidts or other aftermarket derivatives? Not a criticism just curious as there are a lot of choices.
Your build is inspiring. I am contemplating something similar.
1. Where did the AC tensioner come from? Any way you can measure how much below the oil pan block interface it hangs?
2. Why the CBR suspension parts instead of DSE or heidts or other aftermarket derivatives? Not a criticism just curious as there are a lot of choices.
Your build is inspiring. I am contemplating something similar.
11-24-2015, 02:59 AM
#50
The tensioner should be from the Alan Groove Components low mount kit. I am betting they are the same on all the low mount kit
11-24-2015, 06:19 AM
#51
Couple questions:
1. Where did the AC tensioner come from? Any way you can measure how much below the oil pan block interface it hangs?
2. Why the CBR suspension parts instead of DSE or heidts or other aftermarket derivatives? Not a criticism just curious as there are a lot of choices.
Your build is inspiring. I am contemplating something similar.
1. Where did the AC tensioner come from? Any way you can measure how much below the oil pan block interface it hangs?
2. Why the CBR suspension parts instead of DSE or heidts or other aftermarket derivatives? Not a criticism just curious as there are a lot of choices.
Your build is inspiring. I am contemplating something similar.
CBR is the most affordable of all the options and it works great.....personal preference I suppose.....
T,
11-29-2015, 11:25 AM
#52
Updates.....
Got the harness installed from BP Automotive....also Corvette gas pedal....
Reworked the brake lines. Mounted the Rick's Vaporworxs tank with the ZL1 fuel module...
Transmission cooler mounted...
Engine grounds and misc. wiring...
Got this neat fitting from Turn1. Solves the power steering issue however, the fitting was for the Toyoda (yes with a D) style pump commonly found on the LS3 Corvette motors. A quick trip on the lathe corrected the issue of the barrel of the fitting being to large, and a hair too long...
Finally, custom drive shaft from All American Drive shaft good to 1K horsepower....
That is all for now....
T,
Got the harness installed from BP Automotive....also Corvette gas pedal....
Reworked the brake lines. Mounted the Rick's Vaporworxs tank with the ZL1 fuel module...
Transmission cooler mounted...
Engine grounds and misc. wiring...
Got this neat fitting from Turn1. Solves the power steering issue however, the fitting was for the Toyoda (yes with a D) style pump commonly found on the LS3 Corvette motors. A quick trip on the lathe corrected the issue of the barrel of the fitting being to large, and a hair too long...
Finally, custom drive shaft from All American Drive shaft good to 1K horsepower....
That is all for now....
T,
Last edited by TomM; 11-30-2015 at 05:50 AM.
11-29-2015, 03:18 PM
#53
Sheesh!!......Almost finished..........What are you going to do for the rest of the Winter !!!!...........Looks Great !!!
Ken
Ken
12-13-2015, 01:59 PM
#56
Update.... Got the exhaust all done. Had to cut the tailpipes and re work them, nothing too bad, mostly just re clocking the pipes to clear the 4-link...
Plenty of room over the axle, 4 link bars and brake lines. Nice clearance all the way around...
So with the exhaust done and the underside of the car basically done, I moved to the front.
I have an Entropy dual pass radiator. I also have an inter cooler now, as well as the AC condenser. So I mocked it up and there was no way all three of those items are going to fit into the space. After doing quite a bit of research I landed on replacing the fans.
The existing fans are 3.75" deep. I found some Spal fans of about the same dimensions except 2.50" deep. Took a gamble and purchased two of them...well lo and behold, they work. I am able to move the radiator back, fit the inter cooler and then the condenser. I may have to notch the hood latch a tad, but nowhere near the problem I had before...
Old fans...
New fans installed on radiator...notice the core support gap...
Looks like the hoses will go right through no problem...
Intake elbow clearance good...
Pulley clearance good. If I ever have to replace the idler, the radiator will have to come out...
Will start getting the inter cooler mocked up, pump and fill neck mounted and then start the plumbing......
T,
Plenty of room over the axle, 4 link bars and brake lines. Nice clearance all the way around...
So with the exhaust done and the underside of the car basically done, I moved to the front.
I have an Entropy dual pass radiator. I also have an inter cooler now, as well as the AC condenser. So I mocked it up and there was no way all three of those items are going to fit into the space. After doing quite a bit of research I landed on replacing the fans.
The existing fans are 3.75" deep. I found some Spal fans of about the same dimensions except 2.50" deep. Took a gamble and purchased two of them...well lo and behold, they work. I am able to move the radiator back, fit the inter cooler and then the condenser. I may have to notch the hood latch a tad, but nowhere near the problem I had before...
Old fans...
New fans installed on radiator...notice the core support gap...
Looks like the hoses will go right through no problem...
Intake elbow clearance good...
Pulley clearance good. If I ever have to replace the idler, the radiator will have to come out...
Will start getting the inter cooler mocked up, pump and fill neck mounted and then start the plumbing......
T,
12-13-2015, 03:37 PM
#57
Great job!!!.........Again.......Everything figured out perfectly !!!!
Ken
Ken
12-14-2015, 04:50 PM
#59
TECH Resident
nice job (again!)
I like the SPAL fan units and have had flawless performance from my 16" single..
About how far out is test fire? A few weeks or month?
I bet some OEM radiator hoses will fit.
I like the SPAL fan units and have had flawless performance from my 16" single..
About how far out is test fire? A few weeks or month?
I bet some OEM radiator hoses will fit.
