Exocet (or my second LS1 Miata)
04-09-2016, 03:48 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Exocet (or my second LS1 Miata) I have been gathering parts and tinkering with my car for a while but haven't done a build thread here. I ordered my Exomotive Exocet Race Chassis on 12/26/13 (Merry Christmas to me) and took possession of it in May of 2015. It was the first one to come from the factory with a textured powder coat and also the first to have the factory installed windshield frame.
With chassis number 70 in hand, I started by installing the Boss Frog front subframe with fully sandblasted and painted front suspension. All the front parts were stock with the exception of the WIlwood brakes and some poly bushings.
I then added V-Maxx Track Pack coil over springs to the front and rear installing the rear subframe and ending up with a roller.
The car sat for a while as I dealt with family issues and time eaters.... then I got a call from a friend asking me to bring it to a car show and leave it in his booth. I installed the wheels and tires, test fit the engine and tossed in the Miata seats but with black leather covers.
After the show the car sat for a bit again but then I found some time and motivation and got the pedals, radiator, brake and fuels lines all sorted out. I also mocked up the dash and the custom built Speedhut gauges.
I have swapped in the tubular upper and lower control arms for the front and depowered the steering rack.
There is a modified F-body engine harness and ECU on it's way with all of the unneeded stuff deleted from the program.
Right now I'm working on the rear differential mount and have started with Delrin bushings that I will add a cross tube to with gusseted stand off's for the diff to mount to. The front mount is ready as well and I will be adding a Pinion Bearing Support to the mix.
The car is very close to seeing the road and I have plans to drive it to it's debut at Caffeine & Carburetors in New Canaan Ct for Father's Day this year.
With chassis number 70 in hand, I started by installing the Boss Frog front subframe with fully sandblasted and painted front suspension. All the front parts were stock with the exception of the WIlwood brakes and some poly bushings.
I then added V-Maxx Track Pack coil over springs to the front and rear installing the rear subframe and ending up with a roller.
The car sat for a while as I dealt with family issues and time eaters.... then I got a call from a friend asking me to bring it to a car show and leave it in his booth. I installed the wheels and tires, test fit the engine and tossed in the Miata seats but with black leather covers.
After the show the car sat for a bit again but then I found some time and motivation and got the pedals, radiator, brake and fuels lines all sorted out. I also mocked up the dash and the custom built Speedhut gauges.
I have swapped in the tubular upper and lower control arms for the front and depowered the steering rack.
There is a modified F-body engine harness and ECU on it's way with all of the unneeded stuff deleted from the program.
Right now I'm working on the rear differential mount and have started with Delrin bushings that I will add a cross tube to with gusseted stand off's for the diff to mount to. The front mount is ready as well and I will be adding a Pinion Bearing Support to the mix.
The car is very close to seeing the road and I have plans to drive it to it's debut at Caffeine & Carburetors in New Canaan Ct for Father's Day this year.
04-12-2016, 09:59 PM
#3
Staging Lane
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Today I hit the supply yard and grabbed some thick wall rectangle tube, some 3"od round tube, and 2 pieces of 1/4" flat plate.
I measured the distance from the mounting studs in the stock subframe and found them to be 23 1/2" on centers. I cut the rectangle bar at 24" then market and pilot drilled two holes at 23 1/2. Using a 2 3/4" whole saw in the drill press I Came down through the pilot holes and then let the whole saw eat it's way in. Knowing that whole saws usually walk quite a bit I made the correct choice in size because the ends took very little de-burring to end up with a perfect fish mouth to the side of the 3' tubing.
I am going to use the chop saw at the shop to cut off to pieces 1 5/8" long from the round tubes to fit around the Delrin bushings. Once it's all tacked in place and test fit I can burn them together deep.
Once that is done the drop downs will fit easily to the diff and I can tack them to the cross bar. I am going to mount them flush to the bottom of the cross if I can and gusset the joint with some of the plate. With the rest I have already made a cardboard template for the front diff mount. Once I cut them with the band saw I can grind them smooth and burn them into the subframe. The diff will be done and hung hopefully this weekend!
The next step is to give the Driveshaft Shop a call with measurements from seal to seal between the pinion flange and T56 output for the driveshaft, and from the diff to the wheel bearing seal for axles.
I measured the distance from the mounting studs in the stock subframe and found them to be 23 1/2" on centers. I cut the rectangle bar at 24" then market and pilot drilled two holes at 23 1/2. Using a 2 3/4" whole saw in the drill press I Came down through the pilot holes and then let the whole saw eat it's way in. Knowing that whole saws usually walk quite a bit I made the correct choice in size because the ends took very little de-burring to end up with a perfect fish mouth to the side of the 3' tubing.
I am going to use the chop saw at the shop to cut off to pieces 1 5/8" long from the round tubes to fit around the Delrin bushings. Once it's all tacked in place and test fit I can burn them together deep.
Once that is done the drop downs will fit easily to the diff and I can tack them to the cross bar. I am going to mount them flush to the bottom of the cross if I can and gusset the joint with some of the plate. With the rest I have already made a cardboard template for the front diff mount. Once I cut them with the band saw I can grind them smooth and burn them into the subframe. The diff will be done and hung hopefully this weekend!
The next step is to give the Driveshaft Shop a call with measurements from seal to seal between the pinion flange and T56 output for the driveshaft, and from the diff to the wheel bearing seal for axles.
