clutch not disengaging on 87 camaro ls1 6 speed
#1
clutch not disengaging on 87 camaro ls1 6 speed
I swapped into my 1987 auto camaro a ls1 and 6 speed from a 1999 z28, after installing a oem clutch master cylinder im having problems with the clutch not disengaging,, what do you guys think will be the solution? They are telling me to buy a adjustable master cylinder.
#2
Is it a stock clutch and slave cylinder as well?
If non-stock items did you measure the throw out bearing clearance before assembly? Maybe need a shim or two.
If it is an aftermarket hydraulics than not inconceivable it could require a larger master.
Assume of course you got all the air out when you bled it?
If non-stock items did you measure the throw out bearing clearance before assembly? Maybe need a shim or two.
If it is an aftermarket hydraulics than not inconceivable it could require a larger master.
Assume of course you got all the air out when you bled it?
#3
yea everything is stock, i pulled the motor and tranny straight off the 1999 and put it in the 1986. i never pulled the motor apart from the tranny. then I purchased a stock CMC and connected everything to 4th gen pedalz. now having problems disengaging, everything bled properly
.... only think keeping me from registering my car thanks in advance for the help
.... only think keeping me from registering my car thanks in advance for the help
#5
On The Tree
iTrader: (19)
It could just need to be bled
I know I added an extended bleeder line to my swap and used a mity vac to get a good pedal.
Also, you *might* not have enough travel with the 4th gen pedals in the 3rd gen. I've run both a 4th gen setup, then switched to a 3rd gen pedal, but I used an adjustable mc.
Something to note, how is your clutch line ran? I ran mine down the tunnel, but ended up with it leaking on the header and causing a fire. I now run it through the firewall and out the side of the tunnel. Helps keep the fluid cooler too.....
Good luck with it. It is a bit of a headache to bleed the setup, but its worth it when it works right.
I know I added an extended bleeder line to my swap and used a mity vac to get a good pedal.
Also, you *might* not have enough travel with the 4th gen pedals in the 3rd gen. I've run both a 4th gen setup, then switched to a 3rd gen pedal, but I used an adjustable mc.
Something to note, how is your clutch line ran? I ran mine down the tunnel, but ended up with it leaking on the header and causing a fire. I now run it through the firewall and out the side of the tunnel. Helps keep the fluid cooler too.....
Good luck with it. It is a bit of a headache to bleed the setup, but its worth it when it works right.
#6
It could just need to be bled
I know I added an extended bleeder line to my swap and used a mity vac to get a good pedal.
Also, you *might* not have enough travel with the 4th gen pedals in the 3rd gen. I've run both a 4th gen setup, then switched to a 3rd gen pedal, but I used an adjustable mc.
I know I added an extended bleeder line to my swap and used a mity vac to get a good pedal.
Also, you *might* not have enough travel with the 4th gen pedals in the 3rd gen. I've run both a 4th gen setup, then switched to a 3rd gen pedal, but I used an adjustable mc.
We always suggest bleeding more before anything else, since it clears up the majority of issues. The mityvacs make bleeding an easy one-man job. If the issue still persists after thorough bleeding, take a look at the pedal. Its very possible the pedal ratio/size differences could prevent it from moving enough fluid.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (27)
I believe the problem is your stock clutch MC. I had very similar issues with my 76 LS1/6 speed swap where the pedal would stick to the floor... The solution for some is to replace with a Tick MC, or some perform the "drill mod" to the factory MC. There is a flow restriction built into the braided line that causes problems on fast clutch changes.