Post Your Pick-n-Pull Creativity
08-29-2016, 10:47 AM
#22
You would think so, but in reality, it's so dark in there that you can't really see anything, and the roof leaks, and the concrete floor is covered in a thick mud/water/grease/oil concoction that is horrible, and being inside means it almost never dries up! Luckily only part of it is indoors.
08-29-2016, 01:11 PM
#23
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08-29-2016, 06:10 PM
#24
You would think so, but in reality, it's so dark in there that you can't really see anything, and the roof leaks, and the concrete floor is covered in a thick mud/water/grease/oil concoction that is horrible, and being inside means it almost never dries up! Luckily only part of it is indoors.
I've snagged so much stuff from PNP yards I would need a spreadsheet to share and cross reference it all.
First that comes to mind is hydroboost units. Always useful for compact quarters and low vacuum situations. (Thanks for the tip E.)
Another favourite is random harness connectors and fuel fittings. I'm on a budget plus AN fittings and braided hose are insanely priced so I reuse OEM fittings and buy replacement nylon hose for the flex joints. I have a crimp tool that does OEM push lock flares so I use the fittings everywhere I need a disconnect.
09-16-2016, 10:22 PM
#27
09-16-2016, 10:58 PM
#28
Staging Lane
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I have a lumina steering wheel on my car, they look sporty as all get out. Mine had a silver bowtie, my car is red.
I found a lumina with a red bowtie in the yard but both door handles were broke off! I took a brace I found and tried prying the door, I got about a 3-4 inch gap but I couldn't reach the horn button through it. I didn't want to bust the window because I wasn't sure how they would feel about that so I got to looking around and grabbed the jack out of the truck and cranked that door enough to pull my button off.
I found a lumina with a red bowtie in the yard but both door handles were broke off! I took a brace I found and tried prying the door, I got about a 3-4 inch gap but I couldn't reach the horn button through it. I didn't want to bust the window because I wasn't sure how they would feel about that so I got to looking around and grabbed the jack out of the truck and cranked that door enough to pull my button off.
09-20-2016, 08:38 PM
#30
hey does anyone have an idea on what to look at for a sway bar for my crown vic IFS swap?
it's narrowed 5" so it needs to be around 49" end to end. crown vics use a jointed link that bolts to a hole in the bar end, and then into the spindle itself.
the hole would need to be oriented vertically ( i.e. in plane with the wheels)
thanks.
it's narrowed 5" so it needs to be around 49" end to end. crown vics use a jointed link that bolts to a hole in the bar end, and then into the spindle itself.
the hole would need to be oriented vertically ( i.e. in plane with the wheels)
thanks.
09-23-2016, 10:31 AM
#32
I haven't gotten much creatively wise, but I get stuff cheap. The usual windstar fans for 10 bucks, volvo relays for 2 or less, 243 heads for 150, BMW battery cables and temperature sensors, 80s gm weatherproof relays, Jeep GC steering box and stuff like that. I got my Rainier 5.3 complete with accessories, harness, ecm, bcm, tcm, pedal, intake, etc for 250 because it ran but made noise.
I did get one of the third brake lights off an envoy that I may paint and add a magnetic strip to for my Cutlass. My son got a Subaru hood scoop he put on his Cherokee. He's done a lot more creative stuff with junkyard parts.
I did get one of the third brake lights off an envoy that I may paint and add a magnetic strip to for my Cutlass. My son got a Subaru hood scoop he put on his Cherokee. He's done a lot more creative stuff with junkyard parts.
09-28-2017, 02:37 PM
#35
Pick-n-pull Building non-mainstream street rods REQUIRE a bunch of junk yard cruising. We no longer have a yard in this area 
and the nearest is El Paso 90 miles away. Would like to get a new set of seat but it would take at least a day of looking to find what I want and then pull, tote and travel. This would take two days just for some seats. Feel lucky if you have one in your area.
and the nearest is El Paso 90 miles away. Would like to get a new set of seat but it would take at least a day of looking to find what I want and then pull, tote and travel. This would take two days just for some seats. Feel lucky if you have one in your area.
09-29-2017, 08:41 AM
#36
TECH Fanatic
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Other than the stuff posted above, I think the most creative thing I have done from parts I grabbed from a PNP yard is grafting a fuel pump ring onto my '68 Camaro fuel tank. I cut the top of a '09 Colorado so I could mount a 5th gen Camaro fuel pump assembly to use with my LS swap.
Turned this:
Into this:
It turned out great, and works flawlessly running the motor in my car.
Turned this:
Into this:
It turned out great, and works flawlessly running the motor in my car.
09-30-2017, 06:55 PM
#37
You opeedn the door for this mod for a lot of guys back when you did that! 
Last edited by Jimbo1367; 10-01-2017 at 08:06 AM.
10-01-2017, 02:12 AM
#38
Staging Lane
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i found a lincoln black wood today with all the stainless steal liners in the bed ... im building a square body c10 and wished i could think of somthing to do with all that stain less steal....but sadly i left it at the yard.....i see jaguar rear ends all the time .
10-01-2017, 07:41 PM
#40
Lots of little odds and ends not worth mentioning -- but, a couple that I thought worked out well....
Figured if the upper torque arms at the rear were capable of handling multiplied torque at the back, they'd be up to motor mount duty. So I pulled two from the yard off of an early 90's Volvo (keep it in the family), cut them in half and then modified for use at motor mounts and a torque strap. Some pics below.
Here they are cut in half and test fit into the engine plates/ears....
Since I cut 2 in half, I had 4 "ends" - but only needed 3 (2 mtr mounts and one torque strap). So I altered the 4th end with a threaded adjuster and used it for mock up to determine precise mount length.
Here they are tacked...
And fully welded with gussets and mounting plates - they bolt into the stock motor mount locations in the Volvo crossmember...
And the torque arm - which bolts to the front, driver's side of the head and to the driver's side frame rail. You can see it just below the picture/left side of the coolant reservoir.
From time to time at car shows and cruise-ins, the wind would try to whip the hood open or blow it shut. The springs hold it open fine, but the wind can cause problems and potentially damage. So I picked up all the hood prop hardware off of some obscure little Mitsubishi model and modified it for my needs. Bent the end and drilled it to attach a spring-clip. Fabbed a little grommeted opening for it to fit into. Place prop through and pin it in place. Rod is mounted in rubber on each end -- hood ain't goin' nowhere.
Figured if the upper torque arms at the rear were capable of handling multiplied torque at the back, they'd be up to motor mount duty. So I pulled two from the yard off of an early 90's Volvo (keep it in the family), cut them in half and then modified for use at motor mounts and a torque strap. Some pics below.
Here they are cut in half and test fit into the engine plates/ears....
Since I cut 2 in half, I had 4 "ends" - but only needed 3 (2 mtr mounts and one torque strap). So I altered the 4th end with a threaded adjuster and used it for mock up to determine precise mount length.
Here they are tacked...
And fully welded with gussets and mounting plates - they bolt into the stock motor mount locations in the Volvo crossmember...
And the torque arm - which bolts to the front, driver's side of the head and to the driver's side frame rail. You can see it just below the picture/left side of the coolant reservoir.
From time to time at car shows and cruise-ins, the wind would try to whip the hood open or blow it shut. The springs hold it open fine, but the wind can cause problems and potentially damage. So I picked up all the hood prop hardware off of some obscure little Mitsubishi model and modified it for my needs. Bent the end and drilled it to attach a spring-clip. Fabbed a little grommeted opening for it to fit into. Place prop through and pin it in place. Rod is mounted in rubber on each end -- hood ain't goin' nowhere.
Last edited by Michael Yount; 10-03-2017 at 04:26 AM.