1961 Impala 2 door hard top mild custom
#81
All my tuning difficulties with this car were self imposed.
The fuel composition sensor seemed to work well but I don't have anything scientific to test against. I typically purchase gas at the same brand stations and it always read 10.1 - 10.2 from them. The same stations have a non-ethanol blend but I hadn't used it on this car with the sensor installed.
I also didn't get a chance to run a full tank of E85 before I changed the engine combination because I simply didn't think about it. The stations that sell it in my area aren't in my normal path and each the time I was finishing filling up the thought crossed my mind to grab some. Great timing. Haha
After changing the engine combination and installing the supercharger I discovered there is no P01 (aka 411, aka blue / red) PCM with a 3 bar flex fuel OS. I could use a P59 (blue / green) but I didn't have one which is moot as I'm switching to an E67 this winter which supports flex fuel and several additional sensor inputs / outputs for the supercharger and other neat stuff.
From a tuning angle, my logic was this: disable the sensor and get the calibration nailed down with 100% gas, then run it nearly dry and fill with 100% E85 and hit it again. Take the difference and enter that in the E85 tables then re-enable the sensor. I'm told E85 needs about 30% more fuel and will tolerate more spark but I hadn't gotten far enough in testing to prove or disprove that.
During some of my testing, the PCM was adjusting spark and fuel for the 10% ethanol the sensor was reporting so... in theory tuning should be as simple as I stated above. The key at that point would be making sure you had consistent fuel, a spot on gas calibration and a disabled sensor during testing. If you know the opposing ends of the spectrum, calculating the mid points would be easy.
#82
In the process of installing parts, I needed to make an accessory drive for the supercharger. When I looked at spring loaded belt tensioners I found one I thought fit my needs. Apparently I didn’t realize it tensioned in the wrong direction until I shipped it here and tried to use it months later. I simply didn’t think of which direction the tensioner would swing when I ordered the unit. I had a belt route planned in my head, found an 8 rib tensioner and that was that.
Since stopping to find a new tensioner part number wasn’t sitting well with my excellent progress and I was on a roll, I did the one thing I knew would likely work. Worst case I have a tensioner that won’t work – oh wait, I just happen to have one of those. Hahaha I disassembled the tensioner, flipped the spring and reassembled it. Now it works the proper direction.
Disassembled.
Installed. Note the arrow direction compared to the black tang.
Since stopping to find a new tensioner part number wasn’t sitting well with my excellent progress and I was on a roll, I did the one thing I knew would likely work. Worst case I have a tensioner that won’t work – oh wait, I just happen to have one of those. Hahaha I disassembled the tensioner, flipped the spring and reassembled it. Now it works the proper direction.
Disassembled.
Installed. Note the arrow direction compared to the black tang.
#85
I found a flea bay heat exchanger and modified it to fit my car. In the image you can clearly see the mounting tabs in their original location. I later moved and TIG welded them in place on the short sides.
Playing with the heat exchanger location and height while making sure I keep things level.
Today’s tip: If you are doing a bit of fabrication work near the radiator or AC condenser, cover them with cardboard or something reasonably sturdy in case you drop a tool or hit it with the part you are trying to install.
External ports.
Heat exchanger pump which is smooth and comes with no way to mount it.
The pump next to some 2.5” exhaust tubing I had lying about.
I cut the tubing to length and split it in half, then made a bracket from some sheet I purchased.
The pump installed against the firewall for now. This will all be changed to a less visible location at some future point.
The pump fully plumbed, tested and ready to roll.
Thanks for looking.
Playing with the heat exchanger location and height while making sure I keep things level.
Today’s tip: If you are doing a bit of fabrication work near the radiator or AC condenser, cover them with cardboard or something reasonably sturdy in case you drop a tool or hit it with the part you are trying to install.
External ports.
Heat exchanger pump which is smooth and comes with no way to mount it.
The pump next to some 2.5” exhaust tubing I had lying about.
I cut the tubing to length and split it in half, then made a bracket from some sheet I purchased.
The pump installed against the firewall for now. This will all be changed to a less visible location at some future point.
The pump fully plumbed, tested and ready to roll.
Thanks for looking.
#86
I hate cold. I have known this for years, yet I still live here. I'm not sure why.
I'm having some worse-than-normal weather related motivational issues and I realized why... The ambient temperature was -1 when I was walking out to the shop. According to at least one local news channel, today was also the third coldest day of the century in my area.
I realize this is probably light jacket weather to my Canadian friends, but I'm not from your frozen tundra. I have honestly never had to deal with weather cold enough to freeze the moisture trap on my air compressor. How do you guys deal with this stuff on a regular basis? Why don't you move?
I did accomplish a spot of work but I spent most of the time trying to figure out why my DA wasn't cooperating. Once I realized the moisture trap was frozen I was pretty done for the day and discovered hadn't taken a single photo.
I'll share pictures tomorrow of what I'm working on.
I'm having some worse-than-normal weather related motivational issues and I realized why... The ambient temperature was -1 when I was walking out to the shop. According to at least one local news channel, today was also the third coldest day of the century in my area.
I realize this is probably light jacket weather to my Canadian friends, but I'm not from your frozen tundra. I have honestly never had to deal with weather cold enough to freeze the moisture trap on my air compressor. How do you guys deal with this stuff on a regular basis? Why don't you move?
I did accomplish a spot of work but I spent most of the time trying to figure out why my DA wasn't cooperating. Once I realized the moisture trap was frozen I was pretty done for the day and discovered hadn't taken a single photo.
I'll share pictures tomorrow of what I'm working on.
#92
Thanks Bam! Do you have a 55 truck?
Where is "here?" I remember you said you moved from Wisconsin, but I can't remember where you said you went.
Thanks to my shop heater and some insulation work I did last year I had the inside temperature up to about 60. Next shop I build will be someplace warmer or have heated floors.
That's true! I have enough tools that moving very far without several trips would be difficult. Add in cars, car parts, engines and such... oh and we can't forget the household stuff they say you "need" like clothes, a bed and food.
I do need a larger shop though so it's going to happen...
Where is "here?" I remember you said you moved from Wisconsin, but I can't remember where you said you went.
I do need a larger shop though so it's going to happen...
#95
I've never been to Tuscaloosa. Do you like it?
This update brings our story to the present just before the holidays.
I have been driving the car for the last two summers with some sort of mechanical change on a bi-weekly basis. Since cruising season is over in my area this means time to get back to work building, updating and repairing. This is when I prioritize and accomplish the growing list of tasks and upgrades I have been thinking of all summer.
Part of the long list of items I’ve been preparing and prioritizing is installing the trunk floor sections I didn’t do during the summer. I started prepping the insides of the trunk area trying to remove 55+ years of whatever people put inside the trunk and quarter panels. After trying several methods I decided a 36 grit roloc disc was the most efficient (and second messiest) method in my arsenal. A dual action sander loaded with an 80 grit followed the once the main crud was gone. I haven’t decided how I’m going to final finish the inside of the trunk, but making the panels smooth gives me more options. It also eliminates this junk coming loose at random intervals which is currently happening.
I started with this…
And this with a 36 grit roloc disk installed…
After some work with the 36 grit disk I had this…
Tool change…
Short work with the DA and 80 grit.
Lots of dust and grit for a small area. Removing this crap creates a giant dust bowl. It’s even less fun being 6’3” and jammed inside the trunk doing it.
Part of the reason I’m replacing the trunk floor.
Apparently at some previous point there was a problem with the trunk striker. This would have looked better and been more solid if Jeff Healey had been hired for the welding job instead of the guy who did it. This area is going to be replaced with the new floor so I'll probably make another trunk latch striker since that will likely be easier and better looking in the long run than trying to fix this one.
This update brings our story to the present just before the holidays.
I have been driving the car for the last two summers with some sort of mechanical change on a bi-weekly basis. Since cruising season is over in my area this means time to get back to work building, updating and repairing. This is when I prioritize and accomplish the growing list of tasks and upgrades I have been thinking of all summer.
Part of the long list of items I’ve been preparing and prioritizing is installing the trunk floor sections I didn’t do during the summer. I started prepping the insides of the trunk area trying to remove 55+ years of whatever people put inside the trunk and quarter panels. After trying several methods I decided a 36 grit roloc disc was the most efficient (and second messiest) method in my arsenal. A dual action sander loaded with an 80 grit followed the once the main crud was gone. I haven’t decided how I’m going to final finish the inside of the trunk, but making the panels smooth gives me more options. It also eliminates this junk coming loose at random intervals which is currently happening.
I started with this…
And this with a 36 grit roloc disk installed…
After some work with the 36 grit disk I had this…
Tool change…
Short work with the DA and 80 grit.
Lots of dust and grit for a small area. Removing this crap creates a giant dust bowl. It’s even less fun being 6’3” and jammed inside the trunk doing it.
Part of the reason I’m replacing the trunk floor.
Apparently at some previous point there was a problem with the trunk striker. This would have looked better and been more solid if Jeff Healey had been hired for the welding job instead of the guy who did it. This area is going to be replaced with the new floor so I'll probably make another trunk latch striker since that will likely be easier and better looking in the long run than trying to fix this one.
#96
Hahaha, I just making an update and saw your reply. I was probably typing my update when you posted.
Yes sir I will be installing AC. This is a long distance cruiser and I'm too old to intentionally build hot rods without it - unless it has no top. I would like to do the AC before this summer, but we'll see how that goes. I've got a lot of irons in the fire at the moment.
Thanks for the interest.
#97
Plan for next summer is to switch this all over to an E67 PCM and drive by wire because... I'm insane.
#98
A bit more slow progress… Between other tasks, my crazy job, holiday stuff and a lot of important family happenings, I haven’t made a lot of car progress.
In short, I’m still sanding this spray paint and undercoat combination crap off the inside panels of the trunk. This is slow motion dirty work. Sanding the outside panels is dirty, but everything falls to the floor making cleanup easier. Working inside the trunk there is no reprieve. The main problem is all the dust gets kicked up by the DA exhaust, circles around and lands on me instead of the floor.
These images are the interior of the quarter panel after sanding the larger areas on driver’s side. The passenger side is at about the same point. Now I can see exactly what I’m working with for repairs.
Visible toward the far left center where my sanding stops is the welded in plug where a hole was drilled in the quarter and later filled. This was presumably for a side marker light and wouldn’t be original to the car. I will remove the plug, make a new plug to fill the hole properly and metal finish the area so it isn’t visible on either side. Also visible in the images is the shoddy line where the lower quarter was sectioned and repaired near the bottom. I’ll have to get a close up images of these poorly executed repairs so you can see all problems in the panel when I start doing the exterior metal work. Between the mudded over dents, hammer marks and the rolled lip from cutting the panel with what appears to be a dull butter knife, I can clearly see what needs to be done on that front.
Former marker light hole is middle left, while the haggard panel edge is bottom of the image.
Looking up and forward
Inner wheel well
It just snowed here tonight and I have a finished car sharing a spot in my too small shop. I’ll work on something that isn’t so dirty for the next session since I won’t be able to move the other car outside.
As always thanks for your interest.
In short, I’m still sanding this spray paint and undercoat combination crap off the inside panels of the trunk. This is slow motion dirty work. Sanding the outside panels is dirty, but everything falls to the floor making cleanup easier. Working inside the trunk there is no reprieve. The main problem is all the dust gets kicked up by the DA exhaust, circles around and lands on me instead of the floor.
These images are the interior of the quarter panel after sanding the larger areas on driver’s side. The passenger side is at about the same point. Now I can see exactly what I’m working with for repairs.
Visible toward the far left center where my sanding stops is the welded in plug where a hole was drilled in the quarter and later filled. This was presumably for a side marker light and wouldn’t be original to the car. I will remove the plug, make a new plug to fill the hole properly and metal finish the area so it isn’t visible on either side. Also visible in the images is the shoddy line where the lower quarter was sectioned and repaired near the bottom. I’ll have to get a close up images of these poorly executed repairs so you can see all problems in the panel when I start doing the exterior metal work. Between the mudded over dents, hammer marks and the rolled lip from cutting the panel with what appears to be a dull butter knife, I can clearly see what needs to be done on that front.
Former marker light hole is middle left, while the haggard panel edge is bottom of the image.
Looking up and forward
Inner wheel well
It just snowed here tonight and I have a finished car sharing a spot in my too small shop. I’ll work on something that isn’t so dirty for the next session since I won’t be able to move the other car outside.
As always thanks for your interest.
#99
I spent a bit of time in the shop tonight. Apparently I must subliminally enjoy drilling spot welds.
Tonight’s task, take mangled bits from another vehicle and prep them to work on mine. This part is 1961 only and takes the trunk floor straight down to the quarter and joins them on each side. I could make them, but why when I got them with my quarters from a salvage yard car.
Step one, remove all the extra bits of metal I have to get the piece I need.
Excess material removed from the good piece I’m saving. As you can see this guy is pretty beat up, but he can be saved.
These are after a few quick raps with the body hammer and some scuffing with the DA and roloc disc to remove paint, undercoat, rust and such. Now I can actually see what I’m working with. I have only done minimal straightening.
Next session I’ll clean it’s opposing number, straighten this panel better and start filling the four drain holes.
Thanks for looking.
Tonight’s task, take mangled bits from another vehicle and prep them to work on mine. This part is 1961 only and takes the trunk floor straight down to the quarter and joins them on each side. I could make them, but why when I got them with my quarters from a salvage yard car.
Step one, remove all the extra bits of metal I have to get the piece I need.
Excess material removed from the good piece I’m saving. As you can see this guy is pretty beat up, but he can be saved.
These are after a few quick raps with the body hammer and some scuffing with the DA and roloc disc to remove paint, undercoat, rust and such. Now I can actually see what I’m working with. I have only done minimal straightening.
Next session I’ll clean it’s opposing number, straighten this panel better and start filling the four drain holes.
Thanks for looking.
#100
Been a bit since I was able to work on my Impala and accomplish anything photo worthy. Yesterday was a good session where I made progress on something I am able to share.
I removed a section of the trunk floor with the plasma cutter.
Thanks as always for looking.
I removed a section of the trunk floor with the plasma cutter.
Thanks as always for looking.