kingb

i have a 2001 5.3 complete pull out and a friend with hptunners. What wiring pinnout do i need to use to eleminate the un needed wires so that i may make the engine run. is there a difference from ls1 to 5.3 computer, also wiring. and if i decide to who could i send my harness to and have it fixed to work in my truck..

1985 k10 4x4
2001 5.3 pull out
350 turbo.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

You don`t so much need a pinout to figure out what you need and what you don`t, you more need to know what you need/want and then find the wires that you want to get rid of. What was your motor pulled out of? Do you need to be emissions legal? If you don`t do you want to eliminate ALL emissions components or just some? Are you using A/C and if so what style? I have posted some wiring info in the FAQ section for the truck 5.3L`s. I also have wiring diagrams that I can send you via e-mail if you PM me your address.

jeepinpete

On the other hand, if you are keeping all the controls on the engine intact, you may want to concider using the underhood fuse block. I just finished wiring up my 5.3 in my Jeep. There are literally three wires to connect to the stock wiring: start circuit, 12v supply, and 12v switched. The underhood fuse block contains all the relays you need, and controls most of the switched outputs through a onboard relay...

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

If I would have known it was that easy I would have used the underhood fuse block. But oh well I ended up with a smaller fuse/relay center that I had a place for under my hood. But if I had known it was that easy at the time........

jeepinpete

It surprised the hell out of me too. Took me six hours of studying the electrical diagrams, and 15 minutes of soldering. Eventually I want to rewire the entire truck with the Chevy truck harness and eliminate the stock fuse box, but that will be a future project...

kingb

thanks for the help, i have about 7 hours of studying the wiring on the 5.3. it is just intimidating at first but after a few hours i am getting the hang of it. i have elimenated all the emissions, egr, ac, and unwanted from the harness. i wish i had the factory fuse center but my connector was cut. my email is kingscustoms@verizon.net

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I have a 2003 LM7 with a damaged harness (came with JY motor) and have an intact harness from the same year truck. I labeld what I could before removing the damaged harness. Each has a black box with a lot of terminals and pink wires that leads me to believe this is the fuse box base. What does the top part look like, and are they available anywhere?

I did a wiring conversion diagram for the GM LS1 harness for my Supra, the lo-res version is here. The hi res (1.6MB) version is here.

It looks like there are not too many power in requirements for this motor, and I suspect the LM7 will be similar.

EDIT:
Pic of what I'm referring to:


EDIT #2
Found this FS on Ebay, looks like it's what I need, for $30 can't go wrong:

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I used 8 fuses for my LM 7 swap, computer constant power, computer ign power, computer ignition power 2, coils even, coils odd, front o2, fuel pump, and MAF.

I don`t know if the upper part of the connector is available, I think that may be part of the fuse center. I just cut that connector off and put a couple Weatherpack connectors on.

POWER ON

hey jeepinpete,
I sent a pm for you on this 5.3 under hood fuse block. sounds like a winner.

jeepinpete

More info...

The truck under hood fuse block (ufb) has about 8 connectors that plug into it from the underside. One, pictures above by V8 Supra Builder, comes from the the engine harness. There is another that looks just like it that come from the dash harness. There are also two smaller versions of that plug, one which comes from the dash harness, and one that goes to the front lighting harness.

The only complication with the three wire hookup is that you need both the dash connectors. I don't have the pinouts in front of me, but I will get that info and post it. The larger connector uses two wires (start and fuel pump supply), and the smaller uses one wire (12v switched, IIRC).

There are also a couple 1 and 2 pin connectors that plug into the UFB. One of these has two 10ga wires which are fused through the maxifuses, 50 amps IIRC. I used one of these circuits to supply 12v constant to the ignition switch. This works very nicely with the Jeep's wiring harness, since it pretty much duplicates the original schematic.

I will look in my manuals tonight and post which pins are used...

POWER ON

I think these are the connectors. The small square green one which is not shown is for the front lighting. The small square red one has a gray wire which I beleive feeds 12 volts to the feul pump. Also have the fuel quantity sender on that red connector. The two large rectangle connectors is were I get LOST. One is with the engine and one comes from the dash.

jeepinpete

I didn't get time last night to get out the manuals, but the pictures you posted show what you need. The green connector isn't necessary, and there is one wire from the red connector which as you stated is for the fuel pump. In the first picture, the two wire connector next to the large grey connector is 12v supply to the ignition switch. Either wire can be used, as they are both fused. The engine harness connector I left alone. Finally, I will post the wires I kept from the dash harness connector...

jeepinpete

OK, more info...

C1 connector (GM designation) (light grey color) contains the starter solenoid wire, position C10, purple with white trace. Connect this to the wire that went to your old starter solenoid. Also, A9, pink, is switched ignition return from the ignition switch. Connect this to the circuit that used to power the ignition coil.

C2 connector (engine harness, black), I left as is. I am keeping all of the emissions controls...

C3 connector( Lighting, red). F1, grey, is the fuel pump switched power. Connect directly to the fuel pump.

C4 connector (lighting, green). I am not using it, but it does contain one wire for the stock AC system.

C5, black. Not used.

C6, brown. There are two wires coming from this connector, both red 10ga. They are both fused by the maxifuses. I used one as 12V supply to the ignition switch. They are alway hot.

C7 & C8, not used.

Please note, I have not actually had my motor running yet. The starter circuit is a definite, since I have turned the motor over with the key. My fuel system is awaiting one part before I try to start it. I will report back once I get to that point.

marine02ss

iTrader: (3)

I have like 6 wiring harnesses from 2004 and 2005 6.0 trucks I took off trucks at work.These trucks are oil field used so all that jumping around breaks the wires of the tac module.So we basically just swap entire harnesses I get to keep them since they have no warranty because of mileage.They all have that big connector that bolts to the outside fuse box.

shanekennedy

iTrader: (1)

marine02ss, do you have an extra tac module and/or wiring harness you could sell?

jeepinpete

OK, I can confirm that the wiring hookup described above is accurate. My 5.3L started for the first time this morning...

POWER ON

Right On!! ,good to here you got it going.

jeepinpete

Found a mistake, sort of. Power for the transmission, and the fourth power circuit for the PCM, is not fused or powered through the under hood fuse block. In stock form it is fused through the in cab fuse block. The transmission will not shift as a result. The fix is simple though. Fuse #21 is not used, but is in place and intact. The power wire for the trans needs to be moved from its current location to a different hole in the same connector. I will post the details once I confirm this.

acdcgcsc

you can get a aftermaket harness that all you need for about 500.00 new plug, new wire, and heat boot on the wires

jeepinpete

And I can rework my OEM harness for $0. Call me cheap