1SlowFormula

OK, so I have decided to pull the trigger on a new rear going with a Burkhart fab 9" narrowed 3" per side, and it has the sway bar option. The sale also comes with a fully setup center section with 35spl spool, 35 spl Axles, stange brakes, and Billet yoke. This setup is being purchased used/new The Center section is used, the housing and axles are new, and the strange brakes are still in the box. The original owner got a wrong length axle sent to him from Chuck and has not been able to get a hold of Chuck to get it resolved, so gave up and sold the whole setup. I have purchased a lot of stuff from Chuck and know the man is busy, but he has always gotten back to me with issues or questions so not sure about that part of the story...

Anyhow, I will be getting a good deal on a never installed Burkhart fab'd 9" but have to deal with getting a new axle so can't argue with that. But now I just need to know what else I need to make it all work since I am dropping a huge amount of money to get it in the first place...

I verified he has all the hardware and tabs to install the sway bar to the chassis, so there will be the cost of someone welding that on. but here are some of my outstanding questions...

The guy selling it says the correct wheels would be 15X10 w/5" backspacing so I know my wheels will probably need to be replaced, but until then can my 15X8 w/5.5" BS (at least I think it is 5.5" BS, isn't that the standard for these cars and the stock rear? it's been soo long since I bought these rims...)?
Also, does what he says sound right? I mean isn't the normal BS for a 15X10 on a stock lenght rear 7" so moving the rear in 3", wouldn't you move the BS 3"???

The brakes come with SS lines so it shouldn't need the brake lines re-made for the rear and I can reuse the stock line right?

Does Burkhart make these as a direct bolt-in or does it need a new driveshaft. I know I will probably have to swap out at least a U-joint, but not sure if the length is correct???

Another thing is the torque arm mount, is this like the strange and moser bolt-in units, can't remember which, where they need certain torque arms? or does the burkhart rear come with the same style mounts as the factory and most other aftermarket arms?

Thanks for answering all these questions, I just need to know what I am getting myself into, and the worst part is my car isn't even here to go look at things and measure anything since it still at the chassis shop getting the 10pt installed...

01RedZ28

iTrader: (6)

15x10 7.5 backspace and 15x8 5.5 backspace is for a stock length rear. With it narrowed you need to determine what you want? Do you want your wheels tucked a bit or do you want them in the stock location.

I have mine narrowed 3in and run a 15x10 5.5 backspace which tucks them in about an inch. I had to cut the bumpstocks off, clearence the wheel wells, and get adj offset LCA's with a 28in Drag Radial.

Brake lines i used my stock lines but needed to run a different line on the rear itself to my strange brakes.

I used my stock driveshaft but purhased a conversion u joint for the 1350 from napa. I think the part number was 447 (if my memory is correct)

Torque arm i'm not sure i'm running a Midwest 9in and there torque arm.

1SlowFormula

Thanks for the feedback, I have a few more questions for you...

Yes I would like to tuck them in some and lower the rear some as well. My bumpstops have been cut off and I have the LCA's that are centered now but can be offest, but where did you have to clearance the wheel wells? I called the shop that has my car last night and they were nice enough to get under it and see what moving my current wheel/tire combo in 3". He said it would be tight on the LCA's, but I can adjust that, and it would hit where it bumps out for the stock spring. I can't afford a mini tub yet, so will a BFH clearance job work or does it involve cutting?

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

By the looks of the picture of the burkhart torque arm, it looks like you have to have his torque arm.

For the wheels, since you are narrowed 3" on each side, it seems to me all you would need is some math. The fbody spacing for 15x10 is 7.5", so you would need 4.5" BS. For 15x8 it is 5.5, so you would need 2.5" BS. At least that's the way I would think it works. And this is to get them in the stock location. If you want them tucked, I'd think you would have to mini tub so you wouldn't have to worry about issues.

I'm not sure about the length of the DS either. But if you have a 1350 yoke, you are going to need a 447 u joint from Napa. I had to order mine, so take that time into account.

01RedZ28

iTrader: (6)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...-mod-pics.html

I had to do some bfh, cutting, and grinding kinda like this.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Any TA will work. I would say 4.5 or 5 on a 10 inch wheel for BS. Best would be to borrow a set and test fit. What tire will you run? This can effect BS. THe conversion U Joint will work.

Not sure who you got the rear from but we have had no calls on the axles. If they are new we may be able to work with you. Give Chuck a call and caht with him.

Not sure why the original owner never called us.

1SlowFormula

Thanks Steve,

I know that it's strange, and why I said that part of the story sounded a little fishy, but I am not going to argue since I am getting this whole setup for a steal, and if you guys are still willing to help me being the second owner of it even though it was never installed just goes to show what good customer service you guys have. Hell I had a slight problem with something I got before that was damaged in packing/shipping and Chuck corrected it quickly, so I know he is a pretty stand up guy, I mentioned that to the guy I am getting it from and he just repeated that he just had a hard time getting a hold of Chuck (actually refered to him as Charlie though which was strange to hear), and I explained how Chuck is pretty busy and has normally got back to me rather quickly if I left a VM. I will get the name of the original purchaser when I next talk to the guy or when I actually go to pick everything up this weekend to verify if this was all purchased through you guys and all that...

As for the question of tire size, the class the car is being built for is a 275/60 DR tire class, but until then I will probably keep the 26X9 slicks, but that all depends on what fits, what deals I can find, and all that...

Thanks again for the answers and the offer of assistance with the Axle...