More Drag radial questions switching from bias play
09-30-2010, 06:18 PM
#1
More Drag radial questions switching from bias play I've been battling traction issues all year. I've been adding to suspension here and there. Im starting to wonder if my Hoosier QTPs are worn out, they have plenty of tread but are just old.
Either way Im running on a 26" bias ply tire, I plan on spraying soon and will either need less gear, or a talled tire. My question is Switching to a 275/60/15 (28") drag radial will I lose much mph and et N/A or will they stay about the same because Ill gain from it being a DR?
What are the chances of traction being better on a 28" DR then on a 26" bias ply QTP or ET street?
Thanks,
Austin
Either way Im running on a 26" bias ply tire, I plan on spraying soon and will either need less gear, or a talled tire. My question is Switching to a 275/60/15 (28") drag radial will I lose much mph and et N/A or will they stay about the same because Ill gain from it being a DR?
What are the chances of traction being better on a 28" DR then on a 26" bias ply QTP or ET street?
Thanks,
Austin
10-01-2010, 12:16 AM
#2
The chances of the DR having better traction is slim to none. If you are spinning with the bias now you need to go with a bigger bias or get your car to hook as it is. A radial will spin more if the bias is already spinning. Since you say they tires are possibly worn out this comes into play but that is something you have to decide if that is the reason why your current tires are not hooking.
10-01-2010, 12:50 PM
#7
What track are you at? Whats the track conditions like? DA? Tire age? What suspension do you have under the car now? What tire pressure are you running at cold/hot? There are alot of things you need to think about and consider before you go and throw more money at it thinking it will solve your traction issue.
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10-01-2010, 01:14 PM
#8
Here is the deal. IF the suspension set up is not redone then your not going to see any gains if at worst when you get the TQ spike from the Nitrous, your really going to see some short comings. Get the suspension set up figured out. IMO if your going the Nitrous route, your gearing and converter need to be changed with in the mindset of running Nitrous.
One thing no one asked is WHAT is the car doing now, do you have confirmation your spinning, or unloading the suspension??? 1.61 60 foot is not bad for what I see in the sig but again the Nitrous may change that all in a instant, you maybe still too heavy or current suspension woes will really come to a head once you hit the tire harder.
On AUTOMATIC cars that do not BLOW the run there is a good possibility that a compariable Bias Ply tire vs a Drag Radial, the DR stands a good chance of being fast IF the same 60 Foot were to occur. But the key is getting clean runs which anyone who competitivly races will tell you that blown runs do happen and thats something you gotta live with.
In the end you need to fix some things it seems like. But please post more info on what the car is doing, any video will help.
One thing no one asked is WHAT is the car doing now, do you have confirmation your spinning, or unloading the suspension??? 1.61 60 foot is not bad for what I see in the sig but again the Nitrous may change that all in a instant, you maybe still too heavy or current suspension woes will really come to a head once you hit the tire harder.
On AUTOMATIC cars that do not BLOW the run there is a good possibility that a compariable Bias Ply tire vs a Drag Radial, the DR stands a good chance of being fast IF the same 60 Foot were to occur. But the key is getting clean runs which anyone who competitivly races will tell you that blown runs do happen and thats something you gotta live with.
In the end you need to fix some things it seems like. But please post more info on what the car is doing, any video will help.
10-01-2010, 03:11 PM
#9
The car is 3600lbs, only weight reduction is no front swaybar.
I have stock shocks on all four corners, stock rear springs, stock rear swaybar.\
Suspension upgrades are:
Hotchkis Adj. panhard
BMR Adj. torque arm
BMR adj. torque arm relocation trans crossmember
Air bag in the Right rear spring.
pinion angle set at -2
I've only had the crossmember on there for 1 test session. BMR had told me to try the top hole to hit the tires the hardest, the car would transfer hard but spin the tires. When track prep was optimal it transfered well shook the tires for about 6ft and then hooked with a 1.60 60ft. After that the track prep was good but I couldnt keep from blowing the tires off (still running 1.65-1.73 60ft)
Now BMR instructed me to go lower on the mount. The hoosier QTP bias plys are 3 years old or so. ive tried anywhere from 11-18psi, They seem to react and work better right at 15.
This is at eddyville raceway here in Iowa (1/8th mile track) usually in 1500-2500DA. The cars been running 7.30-7.35@93-94 mph
I have some video, but you can't really see what its doing, the wall is in the way, and they dont let you close to the staging area to take video.
Thanks For all the help guys.
Austin
I have stock shocks on all four corners, stock rear springs, stock rear swaybar.\
Suspension upgrades are:
Hotchkis Adj. panhard
BMR Adj. torque arm
BMR adj. torque arm relocation trans crossmember
Air bag in the Right rear spring.
pinion angle set at -2
I've only had the crossmember on there for 1 test session. BMR had told me to try the top hole to hit the tires the hardest, the car would transfer hard but spin the tires. When track prep was optimal it transfered well shook the tires for about 6ft and then hooked with a 1.60 60ft. After that the track prep was good but I couldnt keep from blowing the tires off (still running 1.65-1.73 60ft)
Now BMR instructed me to go lower on the mount. The hoosier QTP bias plys are 3 years old or so. ive tried anywhere from 11-18psi, They seem to react and work better right at 15.
This is at eddyville raceway here in Iowa (1/8th mile track) usually in 1500-2500DA. The cars been running 7.30-7.35@93-94 mph
I have some video, but you can't really see what its doing, the wall is in the way, and they dont let you close to the staging area to take video.
Thanks For all the help guys.
Austin
Last edited by 355z28; 10-01-2010 at 03:17 PM.
10-01-2010, 05:55 PM
#10
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It is possible to go quicker by just switching to the DR... I had a stack of 10.0x time slips an inch thick and couldn't get in the 9's... Went from an ET Street to a ET Street DR and went 9.82 on the first pass - no other changes...
However, I would say that your biggest problem would be the stock shocks... that's where I would spend money next if I were you. Especially before making more power!
Also, 28" will hook better because of more sidewall...
However, I would say that your biggest problem would be the stock shocks... that's where I would spend money next if I were you. Especially before making more power!
Also, 28" will hook better because of more sidewall...
10-01-2010, 06:10 PM
#11
Thats what I was wondering about the 28" drag radial from a 26" bias play. I was wondering if the 28" drag radial would hook around the same or better because of the footprint and sidewall, but also have a stiff side wall it may hurt even more.
I think I may invest in some drag shocks, Probably the comp engineering ones I know there are a lot better ones out there but the car see's A LOT of street time. Its not a daily driver but does do big car cruises and weekend drives.
I think I may invest in some drag shocks, Probably the comp engineering ones I know there are a lot better ones out there but the car see's A LOT of street time. Its not a daily driver but does do big car cruises and weekend drives.
10-01-2010, 06:16 PM
#12
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I would not waste money on CE shocks... at the very least, get QA1's... they are adjustable, and fine for street driving. Shocks are not something to skimp on if you want to go fast. How much you want to spend depends on your long term goals.
10-01-2010, 10:10 PM
#17
Like Blk02 said, get qa1's. Look around here for deals. Guys parting out "race cars" in particular. I got front/rear qa1's, front springs, double adjust panhard bar, and a rear for $650. All with low miles.
