Will this stuff ad up?
07-25-2002, 04:54 AM
#1
Will this stuff ad up? I am running some heavy-@ss 18-inch Chrome ZO6's with some extra heavy tires to boot. My car bogs like crazy now and I almost have to burn the clutch just to get moving. It feels like I am taking off in Second gear. On top of that my clutch is slipping because of those two factors (mainly because it's just time but it doesn't help.)
Here is my plan. I'm going to keep the rim/tire package but put in some 4.10's to get back some of that low end speed and also to take some of the stress off of the clutch. I am also going to replace the clutch so that my drivetrain will be sound again. I was planning for a Spec Stage 3 because I had a TNT Wet shot but at the last minute decided it wasn't worth it. So should I step down to the Spec Stage 2? OR, I figure it is only an extra 100 bucks so should I go ahead an get the Stage 3 still? Whats the difference between the two and how streetable are they because this is my DD?
Instead of the nitrous I plan on a TR 224/224-112 cam, custom ported heads, an LS6 intake and some MAC Midlengths. Hopefully this will get me to 420rwhp.
I definitely want to run different track tires. I still have my 17" ten spoke SS rims. I'm torn between:
A. 17" SS rims with 275 Nitto DR's out back OR
B. 16" salad shooters with 245 Nitto DR's out back (traction?) OR
C. Package A with skinny's up front OR
D. Package B with skinny's up front.
I'm thinking with any one of those lighter-weight wheel packages, the 4.10's, a stronger clutch and removed front sway bar that I should run at least 5 or 6/10ths faster than now. Do you think the wheel packages are that controversial? What about removing the sway bar, what will that do? How does it help? I see some of the guys at the track doing this.
Also, do you guys recommend anything else while the tranny's out that will realistically help and be worth the money? Master/Slave cylinder, flywheel, pressure plate, I've seen on some boards also to replace the hydraulics.? Any insight on that? Thanks.
Mike.
Here is my plan. I'm going to keep the rim/tire package but put in some 4.10's to get back some of that low end speed and also to take some of the stress off of the clutch. I am also going to replace the clutch so that my drivetrain will be sound again. I was planning for a Spec Stage 3 because I had a TNT Wet shot but at the last minute decided it wasn't worth it. So should I step down to the Spec Stage 2? OR, I figure it is only an extra 100 bucks so should I go ahead an get the Stage 3 still? Whats the difference between the two and how streetable are they because this is my DD?
Instead of the nitrous I plan on a TR 224/224-112 cam, custom ported heads, an LS6 intake and some MAC Midlengths. Hopefully this will get me to 420rwhp.
I definitely want to run different track tires. I still have my 17" ten spoke SS rims. I'm torn between:
A. 17" SS rims with 275 Nitto DR's out back OR
B. 16" salad shooters with 245 Nitto DR's out back (traction?) OR
C. Package A with skinny's up front OR
D. Package B with skinny's up front.
I'm thinking with any one of those lighter-weight wheel packages, the 4.10's, a stronger clutch and removed front sway bar that I should run at least 5 or 6/10ths faster than now. Do you think the wheel packages are that controversial? What about removing the sway bar, what will that do? How does it help? I see some of the guys at the track doing this.
Also, do you guys recommend anything else while the tranny's out that will realistically help and be worth the money? Master/Slave cylinder, flywheel, pressure plate, I've seen on some boards also to replace the hydraulics.? Any insight on that? Thanks.
Mike.
07-25-2002, 09:07 AM
#2
TECH Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2001
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Re: Will this stuff ad up? Not that it will solve your boggin problem at all, but the front swaybar removal is a definate plus at the track. Even just unbolting the endlinks would be beneficial, but complete removal sheds ~20lbs. or so off the front of the car.