28x10.5W peepz got a q
#6
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Needed to rid myself of the bumpstops as well, but everyone's car seems to be different. Mine's LT1 as well, could make a difference. I tried to get away with a little 5lb handheld sledge, but I think I need to have at it with a full-sized. My car just isn't crazy about accommodating these tires.
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John, put them on for the last time out this year a few weeks ago. The fascia was already trimmed for 28x10.5's and the bump stops had also already been removed. The LCA's are tubular (stock mount points) with the rear centered with an adjustable panhard. The front inboard of the wheel well near the LCA's was hammered inward a bit long ago. Fenders have not been rolled, but rear shocks run fairly stiff with stock springs and have not ventured into the tires, either these or the "plain" 10.5's.
That said, for the W's, surprisingly, they fit on the 10" rims (6.9" bs) with out issue, but it is REAL tight everywhere...I would not go around the turn off at the track too darn quick. Take care. Dave
That said, for the W's, surprisingly, they fit on the 10" rims (6.9" bs) with out issue, but it is REAL tight everywhere...I would not go around the turn off at the track too darn quick. Take care. Dave
Last edited by RUQWIKR; 12-01-2004 at 08:36 PM.
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For a 28x10.5W on a 9.75" 'gart...
-say goodbye to the bump stops
-trim off the leading edge of the rear bumper
-beat the hell out of the front corner of the inner wheel well
-roll the fender lips
-beat the metal around the spring pocket like it just stole your lunchmoney
I also got some tubular LCAs and offset them as far in as I could (1-1/2" or 1-3/4" I think). This made a lot of room.
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/TAback.gif
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/misc/rear01.gif
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/misc/rear02.gif
This post is helpful too..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/237539-trimming-bumper-taller-tire.html
In hindsight, I should've just got the torch out and mini tubbed the sumbitch. When you try to beat down several layers of metal, you either need to heat it up and work it that way, or get REALLY angry. I did both.
-say goodbye to the bump stops
-trim off the leading edge of the rear bumper
-beat the hell out of the front corner of the inner wheel well
-roll the fender lips
-beat the metal around the spring pocket like it just stole your lunchmoney
I also got some tubular LCAs and offset them as far in as I could (1-1/2" or 1-3/4" I think). This made a lot of room.
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/TAback.gif
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/misc/rear01.gif
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/misc/rear02.gif
This post is helpful too..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/237539-trimming-bumper-taller-tire.html
In hindsight, I should've just got the torch out and mini tubbed the sumbitch. When you try to beat down several layers of metal, you either need to heat it up and work it that way, or get REALLY angry. I did both.
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
plasma cutter
15x10 5in BS Alumastar, 12" spring, non rolled fender. They tuck
15x10 5in BS Alumastar, 12" spring, non rolled fender. They tuck
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#12
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Originally Posted by Brady
How much did you narrow your rearend? I'm thinking about narrowing 5" and running 6" backspace alumastars (tucking an inch per side)
I can run w/o a spacer and move the LCA's over in the stock loactions, or run a 5/16" spacer and run the LCA's centered.
I've got an extra set of Alumastars (non-beadloc) that have never been run if you're gonna narrow the rear