CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Well, this w/e was time, I finally put the K Member and Arms in, after waiting almost a year. Its a PA Racing CM setup, adju lower arms. After install, I eyeballed the toe, which both were toe out severly, so I adjust the tie rod ends, and called it good. Hopped in, and on the way home, I seen the drivers tire is way far forward, to where it rubs the inner fender well on any turns. The pass tire seems to have stayed more centered. It really didnt pull persae on the way home, but I know it needs an alignment bad....all the shops sent their alignment guys home for the 3day w/e.
Anyway, I figure that when I bolted the Arms down I must have slid them in too far one way or another, but this would be the result correct>?
I hope that the alignment shop wont freak out when they see all the corrections needed. BTW, I'm quite sure there are no "race alignmenmt shops" on island, so Midas will be doing it. I wrote down the specs from Brian's (MADMAN) post, and hope they will comply. I am sure they will. Just wanted to make sure the wheel centering is more my fault and not something extreme.

Thanks

Charlie

ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

Any lessons learned? I am planning to do this MOD here soon..

Shon Herron

iTrader: (25)

I learned that solid motor mounts suck when working with the BMR k-member with integrated passenger side mount.

NO fault to BMR really, just a PITA to put in on the LT1 car since obviously there is no room for 'movement'. This design is great and learned what to do again if I ever do this on another car, the Moroso mount will be 'altered' slightly first!

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Apache....sorry..yeah I guess there is.
A ) I forgot to d/c the wiring clip from the alternator, and it ripped the single wire off right at the metric pack connector...took a few minutes to disassemble the clip, strip the wiring and put the pin back together.
B ) During install, I had to loosen the Rack bolts and manipulate the rack to get the steering shaft back on. I currently rests directly on the headers, so when attempting to put the rack side back on, I had to lower the rack/K Member, to gain the clearance.

I did not d/c the battery, I left the alt. wired up, I left the PS connected and simply slid it out of the stock K Member and then back into the new one. I only bolted the lower front shock bolts/ball joint/tie-rod ends. Using a lift it took me almost 3 hours, which now I know if I had adjusted the Arms before rolling out, then 3 hrs would be decent for a first timer. It was surprisingly easier than I thought.
I had been using ES Poly Mounts, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's...I have way more clearance now, the headers no longer rest on the K Member, and I can simply reach up and wrench the MM bolts etc.

1999TransamWs6

iTrader: (21)

One thing I can recommend is try and get as much caster as you can out of the alignment since this is what helps the car track straight. My caster is at 5.4* and is good for about 180mph more mph they suggest more caster however 180 mph is not exactly anything ill be hitting, anytime soon.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Definately. I read thru pages of alignment chat, and seen time and time again, caster= as much as possible (prefer min. 5*)
camber= 0* (both sides equal)
toe= no toe out throughout entire front end travel

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Got the alignment done and the shop was very receptive to my needs, set the specs to those mentioned by Brian, MADMAN. Thanks for sharing and caring.

Charlie

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

I think My BIGGEST let down was after all the work and money spent there was only a 32 Lbs savings

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Which setup did you get? I have the PA Racing, both items in CM. Didnt weigh it, but I am sure there is more than 32 lbs there. Now I want to get a newer model from PA Racing with the tubular lower mounts, ditch the factory heavy *** pedestals.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Pa K-member and BMR A arms.
K-member was 20lbs and A arms were 9.8 each. K-member was about a 24lbs savings and A arms were about 4lbs savings each

BTW Factory Mounts were only like 6 Lbs

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

The factory pieces aren't all that heavy so its not much of a difference.. But, 30+ lbs off of the nose is a nice gain. When accompanied by a manual steering rack and drag brakes its close to a 100lbs worth of weight savings..

Orange2002SS

is it worth the pain in the *** factor to do this? I'd like to offset some of the weight off my nose since i have a blower.

any cracks in the joints, any weird noises? my car is a street car so i want maximum streetability/comfort with occasional track use.

Pavlock Performance

iTrader: (39)

same questions as orange2002. i drive mine allot but im not worried about the work, just the money...

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Well, I got my PA gear used from Tom V. on this board (cant recall his SN). I partially sanded it, had my buddy smooth it out with a blaster, primed and installed it that way...I Daily Drive my Racecar Actually log about 1000mile a month, sometimes more. I have to drive on Hawaii roads, not the smoothest, and take lots of those exit ramp loops. I have the front lowered a tad with the HAL's spring sitting lowered on the shock, so there is somewhat more stress. I have zero issues with DD, and NO cracks. Hopefully it stays this way.
PITA, well, I did mine on a lift, after the new engine was in. It took about 4 hrs bullshitting around the first time doing one with little guidance. Quicker with the A Arms I am sure, since its a bitch to work on the stock arms bushings. I can do a write up, but didnt get enough pics so may not help as much. Maybe this w/e I can take pics and circle the areas of interest.