Stiff sidewall slick VS. Standard sidewall slick
07-02-2008, 11:12 AM
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Stiff sidewall slick VS. Standard sidewall slick The classes I want to run in require a NON W tire, and that is what has been on my car this year. I've been testing this spring with a Hoosier 29x10.5W (stiff sidewall), but now I've got to change. Hoosier does make a 29x11 slick that is dimensionally IDENTICAL to the 10.5W, but without the stiff sidewall. This is the tire that I am considering running.
My question is, how is the standard sidewall going to help or hurt me over the stiff sidewall? I've been consistant 1.29 to 1.31 60's so far this year, but we are going to be turning up the power to make it solidly in the field.
What are your guy's thoughts on the tires?
My question is, how is the standard sidewall going to help or hurt me over the stiff sidewall? I've been consistant 1.29 to 1.31 60's so far this year, but we are going to be turning up the power to make it solidly in the field.
What are your guy's thoughts on the tires?
07-02-2008, 01:01 PM
#3
What are the size limits, or is it just a rule for no W tires?
reason I ask is if you can go taller then you may be able to recoup the lost traction with a taller tire, and run a little more air in them, and use a tube to make them behave more like the W tire.
Another thought, is if you can use one of the larger radial slicks that are made. Hoosier and M/t have radial slicks that are in the 30 inch sizes that may work too.
reason I ask is if you can go taller then you may be able to recoup the lost traction with a taller tire, and run a little more air in them, and use a tube to make them behave more like the W tire.
Another thought, is if you can use one of the larger radial slicks that are made. Hoosier and M/t have radial slicks that are in the 30 inch sizes that may work too.
07-02-2008, 01:11 PM
#4
The softer sidewall will absorb a little more shock of the initial hit but if the car hooks good already more that likely the extra tire wrap up will slow the 60ft. The stiffer side will will be a quicker reacting tire and more stable at speed. You can do a few things, run a stiff wall slick, try a radial slick or if you're stuck with a soft side wall running a wider tire and more air in the tire will also help.
07-02-2008, 01:41 PM
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The tire limits of the class are
Full slick - 30x10.5
Drag Radial - 315/60/15
ET Street - 30x12.5
From talking to a few people today, it seems that going to a standard sidewall slick from my Stiff sidewall tire it will require some rebound(extension) shock adjustment on the rear shocks. I was told to tighten up the rear rebound so that it doesn't hit the tires quite as hard.
How has everyone been doing with the radial slicks? I know some have had good luck and some havent.
I've even tossed around going back to the MT 315 Radial. I've got the race coming up on the 12th of July, so I have a little bit of time to get something.
Full slick - 30x10.5
Drag Radial - 315/60/15
ET Street - 30x12.5
From talking to a few people today, it seems that going to a standard sidewall slick from my Stiff sidewall tire it will require some rebound(extension) shock adjustment on the rear shocks. I was told to tighten up the rear rebound so that it doesn't hit the tires quite as hard.
How has everyone been doing with the radial slicks? I know some have had good luck and some havent.
I've even tossed around going back to the MT 315 Radial. I've got the race coming up on the 12th of July, so I have a little bit of time to get something.
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07-02-2008, 02:59 PM
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According to the Hoosier drag racing product manager, the stiff tires and the W tires are the way to go for high-horspower cars that have to run a small section width. I have a big block, and was told that I would destroy the sidewalls of a non-stiff tire long before the tread was gone, leading to poor & inconsistent 60's. Sure enough, they were right!
As for radials, they work great when they hook, but their life is 1/3 that of the bias-ply slicks. Also, if you spin, they will not regain traction like a bias-ply.
Once again, not me making stuff up, it is straight from Hoosier!
As for radials, they work great when they hook, but their life is 1/3 that of the bias-ply slicks. Also, if you spin, they will not regain traction like a bias-ply.
Once again, not me making stuff up, it is straight from Hoosier!
07-02-2008, 05:52 PM
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According to the Hoosier drag racing product manager, the stiff tires and the W tires are the way to go for high-horspower cars that have to run a small section width. I have a big block, and was told that I would destroy the sidewalls of a non-stiff tire long before the tread was gone, leading to poor & inconsistent 60's. Sure enough, they were right!
As for radials, they work great when they hook, but their life is 1/3 that of the bias-ply slicks. Also, if you spin, they will not regain traction like a bias-ply.
Once again, not me making stuff up, it is straight from Hoosier!
As for radials, they work great when they hook, but their life is 1/3 that of the bias-ply slicks. Also, if you spin, they will not regain traction like a bias-ply.
Once again, not me making stuff up, it is straight from Hoosier!
I know that I will not be running a radial slick. They are too inconsistant for a higher hp car. I need something with a little more "range" of operation.
Now the question comes down to MT versus Hoosier??
07-02-2008, 10:29 PM
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Sounds like the 41 deal I said I would bring my cars to. I would run the ET street, but it won't fit,
so I was going to try the radial. I talked to several dozen guys on a couple of boards,
all said the radial was doable at my HP ~1200+. Good luck, let's us know how the testing goes when you decide.
.
Sounds like the 41 deal I said I would bring my cars to. I would run the ET street, but it won't fit,
so I was going to try the radial. I talked to several dozen guys on a couple of boards,
all said the radial was doable at my HP ~1200+. Good luck, let's us know how the testing goes when you decide.
.
