cali_bear2003

iTrader: (7)

Hello,

I have an ls6 long block with intake and now full bolt on's. I believe the car is still running on the stock tune being that the A4 shift point is still set at 6200 rpm's. my quest is.... Am I leaving power on the table with the shift point set this low? If yes, at what point should my trans be shifting?

Thanks guys..

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Your leaving ALOT on the table. Should be shifted about 6800 with a rev limit of 7k. Ive been tinkering with my bolt-on ls6 for 12 years.....they love to be turned hard.

whatsa347

iTrader: (6)

This, mine loved 6700, they love a free flowing exhaust as well.

30thSS

Put in a good set of pushrods and springs for a couple hundred bucks and you can push it to 6700-6800 with a 7k limit without floating valves. I reved mine to 7500 cam only ls1 for a couple years before I sold it.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

My vote goes to PSI single beehives and hardened pushrods.

cali_bear2003

iTrader: (7)

I am actually planning a valve spring upgrade as my next upgrade. Please tell me which method you guys used to keep the valves from dropping? Also, before a costly dyno tune, I am planning a simple Tune by Frost to tweek things until I feel that I am done. Does that ever really happen haha?? Shamefully, since May I think that I have burned thru less then 1/2 tank of gas/fuel due to work schedule and my monster toddler. I would rather spend the available time with him then the car. My little boy......and he is crazy for that GM LS series sound.....

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I revved mine to 7k for 85,000 miles on stock springs and push rods.
Thats the springs I used when I went to 1.8 rockers. Still on the stock push rods.
I put air in the cylinder yo keep the valves up.

Don't waste your money on a tune till you get a dyno tune. Even then the only thing you really need is the rev limit turned up. The tune from a ls1 to ls6 is pretty close till you get to full bolt-ons.