99 T/A stock and tuned dyno results
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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99 T/A stock and tuned dyno results
Bone stock '99 30th T/A M6, 46k miles. Tested on a Dynojet, corrected to SAE.
289/296 stock
300/312 after tuning w/ HP Tuners
Do these results seem about right?
289/296 stock
300/312 after tuning w/ HP Tuners
Do these results seem about right?
#4
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Rule1: always use 0 smoothing.
Next, what is the timing profile? Did you try subtracting a couple degrees and re-running the engine? I will usually set to 0 smooth, then reduce timing 2-4* and re-run. Lay them on top of each other, just the torque is fine. If the torque remains very similar, you pull more timing. Keep pulling it until it drops off significantly, then add back a tiny bit to get back to where you were.
At 2700 see how it jumps right to 300ftlbs? the engine makes a very strong VE there because it is mostly stock. That is the soft spot for timing, you need about 17* in that region. Many engines will prefer 16-24* and rarely 25+. It will still RUN FINE with 25+ and in fact may even make more torque... but it will be on the fringe of disaster all the time, driving around, you will lose a piston. I would ramp from 17-23* between 2500-3200 then push 25-27* from 3300-5500 then finally around 5600+ you can max timing at perhaps 29* to 30*.
After you run for a while, you look at the plugs and make sure they are staying clean. Many do not realize that while you are not at WOT (while you are cruising around) you need to keep the engine clean by using a good 14.6-15:1 air fuel ratio, and that will keep the plugs looking good. Use a nice large gap since the engine is mostly stock 0.035-0.044" whatever the FSM recommends (factory manual). If the plugs dont stay clean while you cruise around, it will perform worse at WOT (the engine will subtle misfire/unburnt portions in some of the cylinders, raising the O2 and giving you a false lean condition on the wideband at WOT)
Next, what is the timing profile? Did you try subtracting a couple degrees and re-running the engine? I will usually set to 0 smooth, then reduce timing 2-4* and re-run. Lay them on top of each other, just the torque is fine. If the torque remains very similar, you pull more timing. Keep pulling it until it drops off significantly, then add back a tiny bit to get back to where you were.
At 2700 see how it jumps right to 300ftlbs? the engine makes a very strong VE there because it is mostly stock. That is the soft spot for timing, you need about 17* in that region. Many engines will prefer 16-24* and rarely 25+. It will still RUN FINE with 25+ and in fact may even make more torque... but it will be on the fringe of disaster all the time, driving around, you will lose a piston. I would ramp from 17-23* between 2500-3200 then push 25-27* from 3300-5500 then finally around 5600+ you can max timing at perhaps 29* to 30*.
After you run for a while, you look at the plugs and make sure they are staying clean. Many do not realize that while you are not at WOT (while you are cruising around) you need to keep the engine clean by using a good 14.6-15:1 air fuel ratio, and that will keep the plugs looking good. Use a nice large gap since the engine is mostly stock 0.035-0.044" whatever the FSM recommends (factory manual). If the plugs dont stay clean while you cruise around, it will perform worse at WOT (the engine will subtle misfire/unburnt portions in some of the cylinders, raising the O2 and giving you a false lean condition on the wideband at WOT)