Blackbird

could you not just make a divided plate to put in between if you don't have a divided housing.

1320

iTrader: (6)

It passes smog easily......thanks to obd 2........ The oem pcm thinks its doing its job. It only has a z06 cam in it, so it would probably still pass, even if it was tested at the pipe. At idle and 2500 its just a low compression ls1 with a zo6 cam.

1030tooled

Hey 1320! And sweet car Zombie! Thanks for the great imput!

That's some pretty good handy work on the turbo set-up. Wish I could have been there with the install.

I'm glad you like the turbo flange!

Let me introduce myself My name is Gary and I've been helping Richard(performmetalworks) with the machining side of things. Richard had a great idea and BAM, in one day we machined one.

The intended cost was $400 for the flange and I beleived we could still have a market at that cost, but I said no! We can make this cheaper and out of 304 stainless. So the prices came out at $160 SHIPPED for the non-actuator flange and $260 for the actuator flange. One of the competiters spotted us on ebay and claimed to have a patent on the flange and actually threten us with a lawsuit Mostly because they were charging $800 for a much prettier flange. As of right now we are developing a new kind of way to actuate the butterfly. Just 2 days ago we were completly trying to destroy the new prototype with heat. I guess this would be a good time to ask. About what kind of heat temp would be hovering around the flange when assembled? 800* ?

Anyone with Q can PM me and I will try to answer the best I can. Performmetalworks is out racing for the weekend and I'm trying to fill in.
As of right now, this site is the only site with this much data info from the feild(so to speak) and to top it off,..........It's a rear mount.

Thanks guys

Great to see some feedback on the flange!!!

ItsNotStock

iTrader: (24)

These only work if the hosing is divided correct? I don't have my turbo yet, but do PT88's come with an open or divided one? After reading the link to the other forum I would be a bit worried about back-pressure, but having the valve open up after spool would solve this correct?

1320

iTrader: (6)

You are correct. I cant answer on the housing for the pt88. I would guess that its probably most common with an open housing, and I dont know forsure if a divided is available. Im sure Jose or Rob can answer the housing question. Personally, I would get on the phone and try to see if your vendor can sell one with a divided housing.

The idea is to raise backpressure, but only until the turbo starts making boost, so your right, the open valve eliviates that condition. While the valve is closed, the back pressure is raised, while exhuast gas flow is low, and the pressure on the exhuast wheel is low. The valve while closed causes more pressure on the exhuast wheel, to increase wheel speed sooner and make boost sooner.

Ideally, there could be a desired valve oreintation depending on system design etc. It the "real" world I doubt it could even be measured acurately enough to prove it though.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Just got back from the track. Unfortunately I didn't run as well as I normally do. Only managed a best of 10.55 and 10.6x and a 10.8 with a passanger. Best 60' was a 1.63 on the 10.55 pass. MPH was 131.xx on the quickest passes.

Before anyone jumps on me for "bad times", the track was absolutely horrible. I tried my first pass at 15psi and that was the 10.6 @ 131 and I had trouble keeping it in the groove up to the 1000' mark. Second pass was at the same boost with a soft launch again and I actually had to abort the pass around the 330' mark because it came out of the groove and went towards the center line. After that experience I turned the boost down to 13psi. It still required me to drive the car (usually it's a relaxing uneventful ride to low 10.x passes) and clicked off the best of 10.55 @ 131. I was hazing the tires through the entire pass even on the lower boost.

I played with the car from some 60-70 mph rolls on the way home from the track (terrifying my GF who was riding shotgun) and the street hooked up MUCH better. Was able to make pulls at 17psi and I think I'm going to be able to squeek 18psi out of this WG spring. Track is open on Sunday again and I plan on going. Since it is a test and tune there will be some track prep.

On another note this thing is an absolute animal on the street. It comes up on boost so fast and smooth it's amazing. I now love my car even more than I did before. I HIGHLY recommend using one of these valves on any street car, the results are absolutely amazing.

I'm also hoping to get some video of this spooling this weekend for everyone. The car is ridiculous to drive.

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

oh man i cant wait to see this

geeteego

iTrader: (1)

Well, time for me to find a split-housing 80 for mine.

This is good news for all of we "spool deprived" turbo guys. I''m hoping the addition of a 2-step will at least get me a 10.xx, then go from there.

mcx

Zombie, thanks for being the "step up" guy and trying this new product...i was wondering why these block off valves cant work on a open flange turbo??..it seems it would still build that increased backpressure to spool the turbo earlier while it was in a closed position.

Zombie,any chance you could provide what vehicle that wastegate actuator was from?? thx,mike

TurboZ28408

iTrader: (18)

it doesnt work on a single scroll turbo because all its doing is shoving a plate in front of the housing, its not effectively reducing the A/R

twin scroll have basically 2 separate turbine housings build into 1, it has 2 volutes inside and when you block one off it basically cuts the A/R into half - effectively increasing velocity and backpressure and diverting all exhaust gas to lets just say " .63 A/R" instead of a full 1.36 A/R"

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

You HAVE to use a divided housing. Divided housings are divided the entire way through the scroll.

fenix999

iTrader: (17)

So how bout someone with a front mount try this with a huge turbo and compare the results. My car is down currently so im not going to be doing anything major anytime soon until its running Good results tho Zombie glad to see everything is working nicely!

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

You'll see 700-900C internally depending on the cars setup. Not sure what the external temps will be though. If I can borrow a IR heat gun from someone I can go make some pulls and take the temp of the area i'm in really quick. It will probably be 100C hotter than any readings I get for a conventional turbo setup.

The good news is everything is made of stainless which doesn't have the greatest thermal conductivity.

mcx

thanks for the explanation...i was thinking that blocking the feed in half would spike the pressure and velocity which would help spool come in earlier, regardless if it was open or divided flange.

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

MPH seems low. Was it humid or muggy out? Even when I spin and "steer my entire pass" I still run 139-140. Who knows? Spinning *USUALLY* only affects ET.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

looks sweet.1 thing i see those is you dont have any type of piping coming off your wastegate.its going to burn out quicker like that without some sort of pipe to exit the exhaust.

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Welcome to tech, and thanks for following our rules by not posting any contact info......other than your name

Nice product you have hope you decide to stick and around decide to sponsor our board so our members can enjoy your product openly.

J

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

I think the MPH was low because I was running less boost and still spinning, but who knows. I was the second fastest vehicle at the track. The fastest was a Hayabusa who went 10.4's. It's sad that out of 40+ bikes the fastest one only went mid 10's.

vandal0-0

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like Its all comeing around for you.Good luck when you finally get some track prep,should be an easy 9's pass.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Will have to wait to find out if it will improve or not, 9's are not easy. Was going to go to the track tomorrow but I just found a pretty good sized oil leak. Don't know exactly what it is but I'm suspecting it's the oil return line or the rear main seal. Don't want to chance it getting worse or drip oil down the track no matter how much I hate LVMS. I thought it was just excess oil burning off from when I coated my engine bay from the oil cap not being on tight but the top of the engine is dry since I cooked it all off.

It's a real bummer, I wanted to see how the car could do with track prep