ZXSSMAX

iTrader: (5)

Hi everyone im in need of a little help getting started on my first engine build and i thought you all could share some advice or point me in the right direction.
Last weekend i pulled my fairly stock ls1 out of my 2000 camaro. I have all the accessories (water pump ,alt ect..) melling oil pump, ls6 stage 1 heads patriot Gold springs and valvetrain, arp head and rod bolts.

Im looking to set up a low compression lq4 6.0 with forged internals and possibly stock crank. I'm trying to keep it to a minimum budget but want good reliability as well for when the turbo goes on in a few monthes hopefully.

Wondering what i need to know about swiching from my ls1 to a 6.0 block and crank? What parts will transfer and what absolutely will not? (ARP rod bolts, water pump, oil pump, timing chain, valvetrain components such as springs, rockers, lifters, pushrods etc.). Also, will i be alright with my ARP head bolts or should i without a doubt go with some studs?

I've dabbled in some of the FAQs and engine build threads although i'm wondering what combination of rods/pistons will hold up well with a healthy turbo setup (10-16 lbs im thinking at this point and maybe 800-900 horse, although this is still speculation). all of this possible on a stock crank? what should i consider for a cheap/budget friendly but decent set of heads to flow what i need, or at least close to it.

Like i said, already have some great parts and want to keep the built on a budget, although i have no problem spending the money where it is necesarry, hoping some of the veteran engine builders can shed some light on my situation and hopefully save me some pennies and headaches. car has supporting drivetrain/suspension and is a street car, just want to have a little more fun but retain some of the driveability/reliability.

Thanks for any help, appreciate any good advice you guys can offer, hope to have some cool pics and progress of my build soon!
-Cord

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I have iron block 6.0 so here is the deal. Unlike ls2 most everythign is direct swap over.
Pretty much every ls1 part and accessory fit the 6.0. So you can use ls1 water pump, oil pump, timing chain, cam, intake, heads,front cover, back cover, valley cover, gaskets all same. pulleys,alt, bolt holes pretty much all same. Did have one bolt missing on alternator and had to tap and drill out think one bolt hole.That was about it. Very simple in terms of swapping into the car and swapping over old ls1 parts.
You can see more detail in my another aps build happening thread in this forum. It has pics of my ls1 removal and 6.0 reinstallation and assembly.

6.0 cranks are very strong. IF you don't want an 408 or bigger and are trying to save money stick with stock crank. I would do rods and pistons. For make lots of good makes out there. I have callies rods. They are pretty popular, exactly which callies not sure think now there are like 4 versions but think when my engine was done there were maybe one or two. I told my builder to build my engine strong for 1000rwhp or so .
He picked the exact parts and don't know where build sheet is. It was a bit confusing as my buillder passed away in middle of build.

Anyway good rods should come with arp rod bolts. No need for stud girdles but I do have arp main studs in my engine as well. And arp head bolts.
For pistons I have wiseco used them before in my talons and compression with custom pistons and my afr 225 is 9.5 to 1. Pump gas friendly enough if you run alc 50/50 or meth 100%. I will be running the 50/50.
If you don' want to run alc/meth then likely 9 to 1 is bit better. If you want to maybe boost past 20psi on pump then maybe 8.5 to 1.
I wouldn't go with wiseco if go another build. I have piston slap cold that bugs me. It does go away warm but heard diamond don't slap? Not sure about mahle. I think would try out diamond next time around. Now my engine was setup pretty loose for the 1000rwhp range so that might also be why it slaps fair bit cold. But heck some stock ls1s slap louder and for longer ,some slap all the time. At least mine shuts up as it warms up.

Anyway forged piston and rods, good rod bolts. Might want to upgrade to double roller .I got slp combo better oil pump that clears with their double roller.
For intake you can run good old ls6 for cheap. For heads for cheap you can run 317s even bone stock. If you were going to boost higher maybe 20 or up then thick deck heads like my afr 225 could be good idea. I am not going past 20 ever but did spend the money on the afrs. But I am an overkill kind of guy.
For cam well I went with lingenfelter gt7 its used on lots of their builds. the very newest gt7 from comp may have some problems with hardening. LIng now sells the ls9 a lot its super cheap but might require some additonal stuff there is another thread on it.
Maybe ls2 timing cover, cam sensor relocation..etc. It has similar specs to my gt7.
Of course other custom cams even stock cams or older various year z06 cams are straight drop in into the 6.0.

So thats about it. Easy enough swap in. Pretty happy with my 408 . Iron block is heavy but reduced a bit of weight from kmember. Could maybe get lighter a arms later on.
My car is heavy though anyway with dana, 4l80, the big intercooler and turbo kit. But don't worry about weight if make big power.

Think covered it for you..I used ls7 lifters they are pretty cheap and think now standard replacement for our ls1 and lt1 cars. I went with 1.8 yella terras for more lift but coudl have stayed with 1.7 and might go back to 1.7. Less lift easier on valve springs. Make sure you do upgrade valve springs if you run 317 heads. boost is hard on valve springs and valve float is pretty common. and you might want to upgrade stock rockers or get rebuild stock rockers they can fall apart and shed needle bearings.

ZXSSMAX

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info it helped me a lot greatly appreciated. Now i can start to price out my different routes. I think im going to go with a lq4 and stock crank, main and head studs,317's with good valves and my dual golds, and ill have to do a little more reacearch on the rod/piston combo but im glad all the accessories transfer over that saves a lot of hassle and time.

I talked to a few different people over the weekend and they say to use a steel top ring on pistons set up for boost. Did you by chance remember if you used steel top rings on your pistons or a different setup with the wisecos.

I also looked up aps wedsite and was wondering if you have to sign up as a member or just call for a quote. Also did you by chance get your engine blueprinted or dynoed? Just wondering what you paid and maybe some dyno #'s.

Thanks again for all the info and taking the time to explain it really helped .

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

How many cubes you looking to run? I'm in the middle of putting a forged 370 together at the moment. Its a LQ4 base. Callies compstar rods, Weisco dished pistons, Ductile iron top ring, melling h/v oil pump, stage 3 ls6 heads. Stock crank. Should be good for around 1100FWHP. Looking to make 730+ wheel with my D1 maxed out w/meth.

Trans Am Jam

iTrader: (7)

good info in this thread. how much added weight to the front end are we talking about btw. I too am debating on going iron 6.0 for my future turbo build. Is it around 150lbs w/ the iron block, the turbo/piping/intercooler? I was planning on building my car for autox but I'm starting to think a highway monster would be more appropriate.. I treat my car too much like a lady to be kicking up rocks and **** on it.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I used hellfire rings on my wiseco pistons. No idea on gaps or piston to wall clearance specs. I got my short block build thru Canadian Performance. About midway thru the build and before assembly Dave Deluca the owner and main guy there passed away. So my engine was sent out not sure where for final short block assembly and machining.

As said I have callies rods, not sure which ones, callies crank, wiseco 9.5 custom pistons, hellfire rings, arp main studs no girdle, arp rod bolts and arp head studs. Afr 225 heads with ls7 head gaskets..these weren't perfect match should have used maybe cometic or other gm gasket might change to ls9 if have the heads off at some point.
I would maybe go to diamond pistons next time around if do a LSX 427 or similar. I do get some cold piston slap with the wisecos but it goes away when engine is warm.
Still bit annoying. My engine though is likely set up pretty loose as did tell Dave that wanted to run about 1000rwhp max with possible combo of boost and small 75 to 125 or so shots of spray.
I used slp double roller chain and slp oil pump. That gt7 lingenfelter cam.ls7 lifters.I used 1.8 yella terras to get a bit more lift but might go back down to 1.7 rockers at some point.
Easier on the valve springs. I have afr 8019 springs currently in there.
I am pretty happy with my 408. I hope to dyno and track car this season as car is just about finally in finished form. Since installed 4l80 and stall at very end of last season and installed dana 60 few months prior to that have both a strong trans and strong rearend. Just upped the fuel injectors to 80 pounders ,already have twin pump lonnies setup so good for fuel now. Wanted to put in the LG turbo upgrades before dynoing,need to wire up the direct port ,its physically all installed but needs to be wired up. Then can dyno. For track got some et street radials and going to try boost ramping with my eboost 2 by gear on street and maybe time based ramping on track.
See how things go.
I plan on around 800rwhp for daily messing around off track and maybe take it to 1000rwhp on dyno or track. No plans to go past that 1000rwhp. My fuel system is about done at 1000rwhp would think and not sure how much you can put thru a 408 with 4 bolt heads and no main girdle or block fill etc. To go much beyond 1000rwhp would want LSX 6 bolt head build up.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Oh you don't sign up for aps website.It was just open site you go there and look at things like kit parts list,instructions. But not sure they are selling any more f body kits. Peter said they weren't. But they don't seem to update the website to reflect this.
Aps customer service is pretty much zero. Serious flaw in the company in addition to most likley using knock off turbos at least in the f body kits, maybe not all the f body kits who can say. A few have gone pretty good miles like HuggerZ and mine was still boosting at 6000 miles.

If you buy used aps kit for reasonable price it would be good deal.If you pay high price for new one not so good a deal as you might have to spend 800 to about 30000 changing out turbos depending on which change out turbos you get.
Also aps kit requires bmr kmember as well. And different ypipe like hooker ypipe if you stay with catback stock type setup like I did.