fast 90/90 on stock ls1 with boost?
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Arizona
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
fast 90/90 on stock ls1 with boost?
Any draw backs? I may be getting one soon, and was wondering if it would benefit/hurt the car in performance for the short time it will be on the stock motor.
#3
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (3)
Why would it hurt the car ,it should only help. How much well the better a turbo engine breaths with heads,cam ,intake ,exhaust the better it is just like NA engine.Make more power at less boost.Less restriction. And quite a few people are running the fast on their boosted engines. There have been some reports of fast failure under boost and leaking. There are a few things I do. I drilled and tapped the map sensor hole and moved my map to firewall but I run 3 bar map. I dont' like the way the fast holds the map down not positive like factory intake. At least not on my 90 havent' seen the 92 or 102 intakes.
I also use loctite on bolts that hold shell together and few extra dabs of rtv between shells .And make sure the inner rope gasket is properly in place. And use the proper bolts for valley cover or you could crack the fast, many guys dont' know you need the special bolts,they buy the intake used and crack it with stock bolts or not being careful with stuff under the intake when they tighten it down or they overtighten it ,its inch pound spec for tightening and there is a torque and pattern sequence to follow.
I will be seeing how mine does being boosted up to 20psi or so this season. While I think my intake will be ok I am a bit worried my burst valves might blow prematurely .Have seen some cases of that happening. Have them on my fast because will run bit of spray.
I also use loctite on bolts that hold shell together and few extra dabs of rtv between shells .And make sure the inner rope gasket is properly in place. And use the proper bolts for valley cover or you could crack the fast, many guys dont' know you need the special bolts,they buy the intake used and crack it with stock bolts or not being careful with stuff under the intake when they tighten it down or they overtighten it ,its inch pound spec for tightening and there is a torque and pattern sequence to follow.
I will be seeing how mine does being boosted up to 20psi or so this season. While I think my intake will be ok I am a bit worried my burst valves might blow prematurely .Have seen some cases of that happening. Have them on my fast because will run bit of spray.
#5
TECH Resident
iTrader: (24)
On a forced induction setup in my opinion, Your restriction will start at the air filter, Now unless your intercooler has 4" inlet/outlet and running 4" intercooler tubing all the way up to the intake/throttle body I dont see the point in spending big $$ for something thats really not going to help much. In a N/A application, its a bit different, you can use 4" ducting all the way to the supply, but on the forced induction you are limited to your intercooler and piping.
Stephen
Stephen
#6
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Arizona
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Intercooler is 4" as is piping all the way to tb. I only ask, cause getting this intake is a stepping stone to my engine build, and found one at a very reasonable price, and wanted to keep the car running for a bit longer. Thanks for all the info my99taws6 I have heard of them breaking under conditions of nerly 20 psi, and that is what I want to run on my new build. Just wondering what kind of impact it would have on a factory motor with nothing more than valve springs done to it., seeing 10 psi of boost.
Last edited by whitedevil; 04-26-2010 at 05:08 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (3)
Umm sorry but have a few different opinions..stock cranks are very strong seen them go 800rwhp and beyond sometimes. Stock pistons are crap. stock rod bolts are not very great. Stock rods are not too bad.
lean conditions and bad tune will take out the "hypercrap "pistons real quick.Not going to hurt much other parts usually but I guess mabye could hammer bearings if it was really bad and sustained but would think ringlands would be first to go. Seen a lot of broken ringlands on FI ls1s.Not personally I went right to forged engine.
Also not sure what all that intercooler piping and all that theory above means either.
Generally more efficient you make the motor the better it works under boost. And exhaust piping would have a much great effect than inlet piping or intercooler piping. Intercooler efficiency is also pretty important. So anything that helps engine efficiency generally helps NA or FI. So there is a reason to go to better heads, intake, cam, exhaust.Although people can still make pretty good power pushing things on stock stuff but it will take higher boost and weak parts may go bye bye.
They are fair number of guys running the fasts to 20psi or maybe a bit more. But you can always go to ls6 or sheet metal or something down the road if need be. Or sooner the intake will not do huge things on an fi car but remember car is not always under boost and when off boost intakes can still make differences in powerband especially.
Fact on afr website they have two big turbo 1000 hp builds. One has fast and the other had sheet metal but they tested it with fast and pretty sure said the fast was better in several areas.Worth a read on afr website. I had my fast 90/90 pre turbo and like it can do direct port. Have that set up on my car to run small shots.Nitrous and boost can work good together,instant spool and great cooling of incoming charge but just dont' get greedy.
lean conditions and bad tune will take out the "hypercrap "pistons real quick.Not going to hurt much other parts usually but I guess mabye could hammer bearings if it was really bad and sustained but would think ringlands would be first to go. Seen a lot of broken ringlands on FI ls1s.Not personally I went right to forged engine.
Also not sure what all that intercooler piping and all that theory above means either.
Generally more efficient you make the motor the better it works under boost. And exhaust piping would have a much great effect than inlet piping or intercooler piping. Intercooler efficiency is also pretty important. So anything that helps engine efficiency generally helps NA or FI. So there is a reason to go to better heads, intake, cam, exhaust.Although people can still make pretty good power pushing things on stock stuff but it will take higher boost and weak parts may go bye bye.
They are fair number of guys running the fasts to 20psi or maybe a bit more. But you can always go to ls6 or sheet metal or something down the road if need be. Or sooner the intake will not do huge things on an fi car but remember car is not always under boost and when off boost intakes can still make differences in powerband especially.
Fact on afr website they have two big turbo 1000 hp builds. One has fast and the other had sheet metal but they tested it with fast and pretty sure said the fast was better in several areas.Worth a read on afr website. I had my fast 90/90 pre turbo and like it can do direct port. Have that set up on my car to run small shots.Nitrous and boost can work good together,instant spool and great cooling of incoming charge but just dont' get greedy.
#9
You can probably get a set of ported 317 heads for a little more than the FAst set-up and would gain a lot more power coupled with a low cost LS6 intake and your stock TB. The 317's would drop your compression and let you run a little more boost.
#10
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
I couldn't see taking the chance of the Fast leaking or cracking, or having to use RTV
on an intake that cost that much. Especially for the cost. FI cars can have their issues on their own in other areas. The last thing i would want is to having something else to worry about like if my $1,100+ intake/TB are going to break. And on top of not seeing really any gains i rather put the cash into making the whole setup more reliable and consistent. But that's just me.
on an intake that cost that much. Especially for the cost. FI cars can have their issues on their own in other areas. The last thing i would want is to having something else to worry about like if my $1,100+ intake/TB are going to break. And on top of not seeing really any gains i rather put the cash into making the whole setup more reliable and consistent. But that's just me.
#11
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (3)
You can pick up a fast 90 /90 combo for pretty cheap used and I still think they do make a diff off boost and on. More flow is more flow. More power at less boost.But may change my mind if mine blows up!
The 92 and 102 are supposed to be stronger still. Fast really though should make a one piece for the FI guys since they don't really need it to be 78 or 90 like they used to be just from changing shells. They do like to make them multi piece still I guess for porting reasons.
Tony Mamo of AFR knows a think or two about Fast intakes and he can tell you they are on a lot of pretty big power FI builds.
The 92 and 102 are supposed to be stronger still. Fast really though should make a one piece for the FI guys since they don't really need it to be 78 or 90 like they used to be just from changing shells. They do like to make them multi piece still I guess for porting reasons.
Tony Mamo of AFR knows a think or two about Fast intakes and he can tell you they are on a lot of pretty big power FI builds.