Tjabo

I certainly agree with the concern over blowing out MAF measured air. That would seem like it should throw off the tune. I don't really know if the concern plays out in actuality. However, the concern about pulling in unfiltered air is not valid. I suspect you might not have really felt what was happening with a BOV at idle. They truly are exhausting air, not pulling in unfiltered air as appears on the surface.

To be honest, I wouldn't have thought a person would have set up a BOV post MAF, it just doesn't make sense. TiAL BOVs need to be fluttering at "almost open" to "quite a bit open" if they are going to provide the really good response that they can. If you set them up tight like you were trying to do, the response is slow, and you get chirps of compressor surge. Maybe another type of BOV stays sealed up at idle, but I've only used TiALs.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Actually when we tested it with smoke it was sucking the smoke in at idle...my guess is that it was not blowing anything out. This particular car had 22 inhg at idle and Tial said that those cars were known to have issues and directed us to intall washers to shim the spring further. This was direct from the rep at Tial.

Unfortunately some people want that psssst sound and don't care if it is better for their car or not. We attempted to talk the customer into a recirculating BPV for his turbo system rather than a BOV and he wanted the noise. Response was not really slowed however, as at even 1 psi it would still open immediately upon lifting throttle.

Tjabo

Huh! I never saw one like that. With the the idle vacuum largely happening between the throttle plate and the intake valves, I figured a compressor wheel lazily pushing a little air toward the throttle plate from the front side would pretty much always be enough to ensure that air moved out of a fluttering BOV. I guess not always!

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Probably depends on the turbo. I have seen some turbos where the compressor wheel barely moves if at all at idle.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

Just curious how people can think by looking at something they can tell it is just as good as another? I can find you a valve for a cylinder head that looks all shiny and finished perfect that will resemble a very expensive one... They will look the same but under stress, heat cycles, unless you analyze the metal and know anything about metallurgy this whole thread is worthless. Same with oils, you can pour some really good engine oil in a cup, and pour some cooking oil in another cup... can you really tell the difference by looking?

831jd

iTrader: (3)

Witch spring is the 11lb the tall black one or the large gray one?

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Bringing this back-up.

Is there now different EMUSA gates? Looks like the same one can be had anywhere from 49.99 to 99.00.

Any updates from folks who have used these??

a4ls2goat

Ive been using this bov and wastegate on my setup for the last year. Ive put about 4000 miles on them and no problems.


On my 4.8 with a precision 7675 the small spring on the wastegate got me 10-11psi.
Both of the springs got me about 17psi.

I say they work pretty damn good for the price.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Good to hear!!

killernoodle

I'm resurrecting this thread to share my experience with another ebay wastegate. This one is the Godspeed RS-Series 50mm. My experience with this wastegate is much different than with the Emusa stuff.

The quality of the stuff looks great. It's well finished, the casting looks top notch, and the machining looks great. There are nice vbands in the kit and the clamps are of excellent quality.

killernoodle

That's not good, looks like nobody came in to deburr the inside of the housing after it was turned. There is some sharp edges inside where the fire ring seats and it looks like some of these bits may come off with a few heat cycles.

Now time to take the cap off to get to the springs to take a look inside.

Hmm, maybe it needs a little more leverage?

Nope, bent the wrench. I got it about a 1/4 turn and I heard some grit in the threads. Anyone who has screwed aluminum threads together knows that if anything gets in there, the threads are going to seize up and you'll never get it apart and if you do, the threads are ruined. My guess is some swarf is in there and they're forever stuck.

Well ****, looks like this one is going to get returned. I pretty much ruined the wrench trying to get the ring off.

Guess I'm going to need another wastegate in the 50-60mm range. Any suggestions?

LASTLS1

iTrader: (7)

Same thing in my industry except they build junk!! Looks the same but JUNK!!!!! Drives me nuts

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

That godspeed 50mm works decent, however the tool they supply and the threaded design are sketch. I had to put mine in a vice and use oil filter plyers to change the spring lol.its now gonna be used for a boost activated cutout on my new build

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I don’t really see the point of taking it apart just to “look at it”. Be a pal and get us some useful information. Bust out that digital MIC and check tolerances VS a tial unit if you have one.

I’ve been running china crap for about 8+ years now on several builds. I noticed a few issues.

1.) The valve to seat seal was always pretty bad, leaking exhaust even at idle. I lap the valves by hand with valve grinding compound to get a nice tight seal.
2.) Also the valve shaft finish wasn’t always great and there were almost always burrs in the valve guide area. A good cleaning and deburr with some 400-800grit wetsand worked well.
3.) About half of the gates I order leak air from the diaphragm right off the bat. It is usually pinched during assembly. I’d suggest everyone check this at minimum before install. Blow through the bottom port, air shouldn’t come out the top. Small leakage aroudn the shaft is normal. Top port should be air tight.
4.) I like to assemble the valve with some hightemp molylube grease on the valve stem. It will burn off the bottom, but is good to 600*F or so and I’ve never had one stick after doing this. I have had them stick on me when I haven’t lubed them. Not sure if it leaves a nice carbon layer for it to ride on or what.

Heres a good video comparing the tial to a knockoff.

TPIIROC

iTrader: (1)

So I understand the name brand gates have quality but that test put a waste gate in an environment that 99 percent of waste gates will never see.

LASTLS1

iTrader: (7)

I have the same thing in my business. Looks EXACTLY the same but doesn't work the same or last!!! It's such crap we won't even work on them anymore. I hear it all the time, (but it looks like a honda) , LOL!!!!! Plus I buy US made anything whenever possible.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

EMUSA "stainless steel valve" on their 38mm gate at ~500 miles or less rusting pretty good.