6.0 overheats at idle
#1
6.0 overheats at idle
I have a freshly built LQ4 that's built for boost that i'm having a hell of a time getting to run without overheating, so much so that after 10-15 minutes of idling it will hit temps of 230+ and start boiling over.
Here's a list of my cooling parts and part of my motor build.
Engine:
2001 LQ4 bored .030 over
Wiseco 4.03 -15cc pistons
Callies Compstar H-beams
Brutespeed blower cam
stock 317 heads with 3 angle valve job
Patriot Dual springs
GM LS9 MLS head gaskets
76mm Turbo - crossover running close to the radiator but wrapped with header wrap.
Cooling:
C&R single pass 2 row radiator
New LS1 water pump (heater core fittings plugged)
Mr Gasket 160 thermostat (6367), bleed hole at the top
CSR straight thermostat housing (modified to fit t-stat)
2 - 12" pusher fans (1600 cfm each)
2 LS6 front steam vent tubes T'd together and returned to fitting in top of water pump outlet
When filling the radiator with distilled water and water wetter, I unhooked the hoses going to both steam vent tubes until water started flowing out of each. I used a Lisle spill free funnel to help "burping" the cooling system. with the motor running I squeezed both upper and lower hoses to free as many bubbles as possible, which worked well. Everything was going good for about 10 minutes until it got to 180* on my Autometer electric temp gauge in the pass head, which is usually about 20* lower than HP Tuners via the stock temp sender in the driver head. Water level in the funnel began to rise until it started to bubble over. it's almost as if the t-stat isn't opening and the water has nowhere to go but out of the radiator. last week I pulled the t-stat and tested it by boiling it in a pan, slowly opens right around 160 and is fully open in less than a minute.
I'm at a loss right now. Does anyone have any suggestions for me.
Please let me know if I need to add details or pics.
Thanks ffor the help in advance.
Avery
Here's a list of my cooling parts and part of my motor build.
Engine:
2001 LQ4 bored .030 over
Wiseco 4.03 -15cc pistons
Callies Compstar H-beams
Brutespeed blower cam
stock 317 heads with 3 angle valve job
Patriot Dual springs
GM LS9 MLS head gaskets
76mm Turbo - crossover running close to the radiator but wrapped with header wrap.
Cooling:
C&R single pass 2 row radiator
New LS1 water pump (heater core fittings plugged)
Mr Gasket 160 thermostat (6367), bleed hole at the top
CSR straight thermostat housing (modified to fit t-stat)
2 - 12" pusher fans (1600 cfm each)
2 LS6 front steam vent tubes T'd together and returned to fitting in top of water pump outlet
When filling the radiator with distilled water and water wetter, I unhooked the hoses going to both steam vent tubes until water started flowing out of each. I used a Lisle spill free funnel to help "burping" the cooling system. with the motor running I squeezed both upper and lower hoses to free as many bubbles as possible, which worked well. Everything was going good for about 10 minutes until it got to 180* on my Autometer electric temp gauge in the pass head, which is usually about 20* lower than HP Tuners via the stock temp sender in the driver head. Water level in the funnel began to rise until it started to bubble over. it's almost as if the t-stat isn't opening and the water has nowhere to go but out of the radiator. last week I pulled the t-stat and tested it by boiling it in a pan, slowly opens right around 160 and is fully open in less than a minute.
I'm at a loss right now. Does anyone have any suggestions for me.
Please let me know if I need to add details or pics.
Thanks ffor the help in advance.
Avery
#5
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are you sure the water pump is turning the right direction?
you can get a clear piece of hose from home depo the same size as your radiator hose, either just a small pieces inline with a couple pieces of metal pipe for couplings with hose clamps. Or depending how long and amout of curves your upper radiator hose has in it, you can use a long piece of the clear hose. You just want to use it long enough to see the coolant/water moving from the motor to the radiator.
I suggest to take out you thermostat hook up some clear hose to see if the coolant is moving too fast or too slow..... That will tell you alot, or if your just not getting enough air flow.
you can get a clear piece of hose from home depo the same size as your radiator hose, either just a small pieces inline with a couple pieces of metal pipe for couplings with hose clamps. Or depending how long and amout of curves your upper radiator hose has in it, you can use a long piece of the clear hose. You just want to use it long enough to see the coolant/water moving from the motor to the radiator.
I suggest to take out you thermostat hook up some clear hose to see if the coolant is moving too fast or too slow..... That will tell you alot, or if your just not getting enough air flow.
#6
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I would guess one of two possible or a combination of the two.
Radiator is to small or has blockages
Fans are not moving enough air
Ok a third air flow thru radiator or fans is obstructed.
You can use an inferred temp gun to check various spots on your radiator to make sure it doesn't have any blockages.
You can also use the temp gun to check temps around the heads, if you have a hot spot it could be an air bubble.
If the voltage is low to the fans they will run slow.
Good luck
Radiator is to small or has blockages
Fans are not moving enough air
Ok a third air flow thru radiator or fans is obstructed.
You can use an inferred temp gun to check various spots on your radiator to make sure it doesn't have any blockages.
You can also use the temp gun to check temps around the heads, if you have a hot spot it could be an air bubble.
If the voltage is low to the fans they will run slow.
Good luck
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my car pushes the coolant out if i let it run too long with the cap off. i think its because its not flowing through the rad fast enough and gushes out. are you over heating when driving? i have had to fit a pair of the derale 16925 pushers to mine to stop it overheating. they are beasty fans but need LOTS of current
dont forget without the cap the water is going to boil at 212f
dont forget without the cap the water is going to boil at 212f
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#8
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Is all the air pockets out? We remove the top hose from the rad when we "think" it's full and hold that hose up higher and fill it then carefully put back on the rad and try again. We had the problem your talking about and this fixed it. Guess its worth a try...?
#10
are you sure the water pump is turning the right direction?
you can get a clear piece of hose from home depo the same size as your radiator hose, either just a small pieces inline with a couple pieces of metal pipe for couplings with hose clamps. Or depending how long and amout of curves your upper radiator hose has in it, you can use a long piece of the clear hose. You just want to use it long enough to see the coolant/water moving from the motor to the radiator.
I suggest to take out you thermostat hook up some clear hose to see if the coolant is moving too fast or too slow..... That will tell you alot, or if your just not getting enough air flow.
you can get a clear piece of hose from home depo the same size as your radiator hose, either just a small pieces inline with a couple pieces of metal pipe for couplings with hose clamps. Or depending how long and amout of curves your upper radiator hose has in it, you can use a long piece of the clear hose. You just want to use it long enough to see the coolant/water moving from the motor to the radiator.
I suggest to take out you thermostat hook up some clear hose to see if the coolant is moving too fast or too slow..... That will tell you alot, or if your just not getting enough air flow.
the top hose shouldn't be that hard to add some clear tubing, but the lower might be a little difficult. i'll try and give this a shot too
I would guess one of two possible or a combination of the two.
Radiator is to small or has blockages
Fans are not moving enough air
Ok a third air flow thru radiator or fans is obstructed.
You can use an inferred temp gun to check various spots on your radiator to make sure it doesn't have any blockages.
You can also use the temp gun to check temps around the heads, if you have a hot spot it could be an air bubble.
If the voltage is low to the fans they will run slow.
Good luck
Radiator is to small or has blockages
Fans are not moving enough air
Ok a third air flow thru radiator or fans is obstructed.
You can use an inferred temp gun to check various spots on your radiator to make sure it doesn't have any blockages.
You can also use the temp gun to check temps around the heads, if you have a hot spot it could be an air bubble.
If the voltage is low to the fans they will run slow.
Good luck
it's possible the fans may not be moving enough air, but even idling for 10-15 minutes in 40* weather I wouldn't think the lack of air movement would be this pronounced. I could be wrong though.
i'll check the voltage and see how that looks.
my car pushes the coolant out if i let it run too long with the cap off. i think its because its not flowing through the rad fast enough and gushes out. are you over heating when driving? i have had to fit a pair of the derale 16925 pushers to mine to stop it overheating. they are beasty fans but need LOTS of current
dont forget without the cap the water is going to boil at 212f
dont forget without the cap the water is going to boil at 212f
thanks. i'll keep on keepin on and report back
#14
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Head gaskets
I have a freshly built LQ4 that's built for boost that i'm having a hell of a time getting to run without overheating, so much so that after 10-15 minutes of idling it will hit temps of 230+ and start boiling over.
Here's a list of my cooling parts and part of my motor build.
Engine:
2001 LQ4 bored .030 over
Wiseco 4.03 -15cc pistons
Callies Compstar H-beams
Brutespeed blower cam
stock 317 heads with 3 angle valve job
Patriot Dual springs
GM LS9 MLS head gaskets
76mm Turbo - crossover running close to the radiator but wrapped with header wrap.
Cooling:
C&R single pass 2 row radiator
New LS1 water pump (heater core fittings plugged)
Mr Gasket 160 thermostat (6367), bleed hole at the top
CSR straight thermostat housing (modified to fit t-stat)
2 - 12" pusher fans (1600 cfm each)
2 LS6 front steam vent tubes T'd together and returned to fitting in top of water pump outlet
When filling the radiator with distilled water and water wetter, I unhooked the hoses going to both steam vent tubes until water started flowing out of each. I used a Lisle spill free funnel to help "burping" the cooling system. with the motor running I squeezed both upper and lower hoses to free as many bubbles as possible, which worked well. Everything was going good for about 10 minutes until it got to 180* on my Autometer electric temp gauge in the pass head, which is usually about 20* lower than HP Tuners via the stock temp sender in the driver head. Water level in the funnel began to rise until it started to bubble over. it's almost as if the t-stat isn't opening and the water has nowhere to go but out of the radiator. last week I pulled the t-stat and tested it by boiling it in a pan, slowly opens right around 160 and is fully open in less than a minute.
I'm at a loss right now. Does anyone have any suggestions for me.
Please let me know if I need to add details or pics.
Thanks ffor the help in advance.
Avery
Here's a list of my cooling parts and part of my motor build.
Engine:
2001 LQ4 bored .030 over
Wiseco 4.03 -15cc pistons
Callies Compstar H-beams
Brutespeed blower cam
stock 317 heads with 3 angle valve job
Patriot Dual springs
GM LS9 MLS head gaskets
76mm Turbo - crossover running close to the radiator but wrapped with header wrap.
Cooling:
C&R single pass 2 row radiator
New LS1 water pump (heater core fittings plugged)
Mr Gasket 160 thermostat (6367), bleed hole at the top
CSR straight thermostat housing (modified to fit t-stat)
2 - 12" pusher fans (1600 cfm each)
2 LS6 front steam vent tubes T'd together and returned to fitting in top of water pump outlet
When filling the radiator with distilled water and water wetter, I unhooked the hoses going to both steam vent tubes until water started flowing out of each. I used a Lisle spill free funnel to help "burping" the cooling system. with the motor running I squeezed both upper and lower hoses to free as many bubbles as possible, which worked well. Everything was going good for about 10 minutes until it got to 180* on my Autometer electric temp gauge in the pass head, which is usually about 20* lower than HP Tuners via the stock temp sender in the driver head. Water level in the funnel began to rise until it started to bubble over. it's almost as if the t-stat isn't opening and the water has nowhere to go but out of the radiator. last week I pulled the t-stat and tested it by boiling it in a pan, slowly opens right around 160 and is fully open in less than a minute.
I'm at a loss right now. Does anyone have any suggestions for me.
Please let me know if I need to add details or pics.
Thanks ffor the help in advance.
Avery
#15
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iTrader: (3)
If you are running a factory water pump and thermostat , and you plug the heater hose connections instead of looping them, you are creating this problem.
look close at the thermostat location in the water pump , it cannot 'see' hot coolant with the heater hoses blocked until the engine is already too hot. This causes it to overheat. The thermostat needs the looped flow from the heater hoses to 'see' engine heat, in order for it to open
look close at the thermostat location in the water pump , it cannot 'see' hot coolant with the heater hoses blocked until the engine is already too hot. This causes it to overheat. The thermostat needs the looped flow from the heater hoses to 'see' engine heat, in order for it to open
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If you are running a factory water pump and thermostat , and you plug the heater hose connections instead of looping them, you are creating this problem.
look close at the thermostat location in the water pump , it cannot 'see' hot coolant with the heater hoses blocked until the engine is already too hot. This causes it to overheat. The thermostat needs the looped flow from the heater hoses to 'see' engine heat, in order for it to open
look close at the thermostat location in the water pump , it cannot 'see' hot coolant with the heater hoses blocked until the engine is already too hot. This causes it to overheat. The thermostat needs the looped flow from the heater hoses to 'see' engine heat, in order for it to open
#17
TECH Fanatic
If you don't have the heater hoses looped that will cause it. One thing no one mention is Harmonic balancer! I have a under drive balancer25% on my engine, and it cause the water pump to turn to slow at idle, water is not moving much at idle. Once I give it gas temp drops right away! I just don't let it idle much, and if I get stopped for a while I just rev it to 1800, until I get rolling!
#18
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The stock thermostat bypasses when closed. I have two stock ones. One has 4 .100" holes for bypass, the other has steps where it meets the housing in the back to allow bypass.
Might have a look at your thermostat setup. Sounds funky with the modified housing you are using???
I just plugged my heater hose outlets. Today. As a safety measure, I drilled an additional hole in the WP housing for more bypass.
Would be very interesting to see what the heater valve actually looks like. If the hoses really must be looped, that valve must create a loop when the heater is off.
It's an interesting deal, others have reported no issues with the outlets blocked off. I guess I'll find out in about 3 months....when my car runs.
Ron
Might have a look at your thermostat setup. Sounds funky with the modified housing you are using???
I just plugged my heater hose outlets. Today. As a safety measure, I drilled an additional hole in the WP housing for more bypass.
Would be very interesting to see what the heater valve actually looks like. If the hoses really must be looped, that valve must create a loop when the heater is off.
It's an interesting deal, others have reported no issues with the outlets blocked off. I guess I'll find out in about 3 months....when my car runs.
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; 12-16-2013 at 07:29 PM.
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Water coming out of the radiator when hot can be caused by the water expanding when it gets hot.
To properly check you need to keep the cap on and see if it pulls coolant from the expansion/overflow tank as it cools down.
To properly check you need to keep the cap on and see if it pulls coolant from the expansion/overflow tank as it cools down.
#20
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The stock thermostat bypasses when closed. I have two stock ones. One has 4 .100" holes for bypass, the other has steps where it meets the housing in the back to allow bypass.
Might have a look at your thermostat setup. Sounds funky with the modified housing you are using???
I just plugged my heater hose outlets. Today. As a safety measure, I drilled an additional hole in the WP housing for more bypass.
Would be very interesting to see what the heater valve actually looks like. If the hoses really must be looped, that valve must create a loop when the heater is off.
It's an interesting deal, others have reported no issues with the outlets blocked off. I guess I'll find out in about 3 months....when my car runs.
Ron
Might have a look at your thermostat setup. Sounds funky with the modified housing you are using???
I just plugged my heater hose outlets. Today. As a safety measure, I drilled an additional hole in the WP housing for more bypass.
Would be very interesting to see what the heater valve actually looks like. If the hoses really must be looped, that valve must create a loop when the heater is off.
It's an interesting deal, others have reported no issues with the outlets blocked off. I guess I'll find out in about 3 months....when my car runs.
Ron