66 Chevelle going turbo & need suggestions
#1
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66 Chevelle going turbo & need suggestions
I will try to make this short:
Man, I recently caught turbo fever and I've read through so many threads and stickies that now I'm plain unsure what route to take as far as engine and turbo size.
All I know is old school sbc's so this is all new to me. I am reading through 'How to build and modify GM LS-Series Engines' and I also bought a set of dvd's so hopefully I'm on the right track.
The goal is to put the Chevelle into the mid to low 6's while keeping it streetable.
So I'm trying to decide whether to go with a 5.3 or 6.0 for starters and then what size turbo to go with. I'd like to keep the budget around 3k-4k if possible?
Going engine hunting this weekend and wanted to see what you guys would be looking for if you were doing this build.
thanks
Man, I recently caught turbo fever and I've read through so many threads and stickies that now I'm plain unsure what route to take as far as engine and turbo size.
All I know is old school sbc's so this is all new to me. I am reading through 'How to build and modify GM LS-Series Engines' and I also bought a set of dvd's so hopefully I'm on the right track.
The goal is to put the Chevelle into the mid to low 6's while keeping it streetable.
So I'm trying to decide whether to go with a 5.3 or 6.0 for starters and then what size turbo to go with. I'd like to keep the budget around 3k-4k if possible?
Going engine hunting this weekend and wanted to see what you guys would be looking for if you were doing this build.
thanks
#3
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With that budget, get which ever engine is cheaper. Both will work just fine. Out of the box S475 will make the power you need.
When you get an engine, get it complete with wiring and ECU, and if its drive by wire get the gas pedal and TAC. You don't want to be hunting for pieces later.
For fuel I would get a tanks inc EFI tank with the biggest fuel pump they have, or if you can weld then get their weld in recess plate with PA module and stuff a pair of internals in it. Then grab some Siemens deka 80 lb injectors from eBay.
If you are doing the welding, Columbia River wells mandrel bent piping you can use for the hot side. You can also get away with the stock truck manifolds.
That should put you on the right path. You'll have to decide what to do for a transmission before anyone can give you some advice.
When you get an engine, get it complete with wiring and ECU, and if its drive by wire get the gas pedal and TAC. You don't want to be hunting for pieces later.
For fuel I would get a tanks inc EFI tank with the biggest fuel pump they have, or if you can weld then get their weld in recess plate with PA module and stuff a pair of internals in it. Then grab some Siemens deka 80 lb injectors from eBay.
If you are doing the welding, Columbia River wells mandrel bent piping you can use for the hot side. You can also get away with the stock truck manifolds.
That should put you on the right path. You'll have to decide what to do for a transmission before anyone can give you some advice.
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Sarg,
Thanks for the fast reply.
I had the L33 5.3 and the LQ4 6.0 written down as possibilities so going with the L33 sounds good to me. Also appreciate you giving me a year to look for as well. Great help.
At this point I think I'm going to try to do my own kit as I have access to a tubing bender and welder at work; should help with keeping things within budget.
Thanks for the fast reply.
I had the L33 5.3 and the LQ4 6.0 written down as possibilities so going with the L33 sounds good to me. Also appreciate you giving me a year to look for as well. Great help.
At this point I think I'm going to try to do my own kit as I have access to a tubing bender and welder at work; should help with keeping things within budget.
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Joe,
That is great info right there.
Yes, I hope to get the engine, wiring, and ecu from the same vehicle. What did you mean if its 'drive by wire'? Sorry for the newb question...
I'll probably keep the stock tank and retro fit all that is needed into it.
As far as the transmission I currently have a TH350 but the plan is to sell it and use a 4L80e although this will probably bump my budget up; which is what I expect anyway.
That is great info right there.
Yes, I hope to get the engine, wiring, and ecu from the same vehicle. What did you mean if its 'drive by wire'? Sorry for the newb question...
I'll probably keep the stock tank and retro fit all that is needed into it.
As far as the transmission I currently have a TH350 but the plan is to sell it and use a 4L80e although this will probably bump my budget up; which is what I expect anyway.
#6
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Drive by wire means that there is no throttle cable. The pedals have as sensor which tells a motor on the throttle body how far to open. Were it me, I would skip that and just convert to a cable with a 411 ecu (red and blue connectors) out of a 99-2000 fbody. Drive by wire just makes me uncomfortble, lol. But he is right, would be cheaper if you grab all that to install in your car.
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#8
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Drive by wire is an electronically controlled throttle. There is no cable between the pedal and the throttle body. All L33s were drive by wire. Get the pedal and TAC with it.
4L80 is a good choice because of its sheer strength. Cost isn't really much higher than switching from a 350 to a 400. You can use the same shifter and slip yoke as the 400. Either way you'll have to shorten the driveshaft and move the cross member. The torque converter will be most of the extra cost over a 400 but it won't be unreasonable.
4L80 is a good choice because of its sheer strength. Cost isn't really much higher than switching from a 350 to a 400. You can use the same shifter and slip yoke as the 400. Either way you'll have to shorten the driveshaft and move the cross member. The torque converter will be most of the extra cost over a 400 but it won't be unreasonable.
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Sounds good. I'll be picking up the pedal and TAC as well then.
Looks like I have a place to get started so the plan is to head out to the junkyards this Saturday and I'll let you guys know if I come up with anything.
Thanks again for all the great info. Hopefully I can turn this into a build thread soon.
Looks like I have a place to get started so the plan is to head out to the junkyards this Saturday and I'll let you guys know if I come up with anything.
Thanks again for all the great info. Hopefully I can turn this into a build thread soon.
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I started with a 6.0, than had some issues with it. so I went to a L33.I wish I had kept the 6.0. it had way more torque , way more !!! If I could do it again, and I might.. I would build with the 6.0 !
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I think ultimately for me, it will come down to finding the best deal that can put this heavy Chevelle in the 6's whether it be a 6.0 or 5.3 as both are certainly capable.
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With the turbo and the RPM range he will be in at the track to run the times he wants, it will be irrelevant. The 6.0 will make more torque down low and out of boost, the 5.3 will make more up high and in boost. He isn't going to be at the track cruising 2200 RPM at part throttle to run the times he wants.
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So far the discussion has confirmed what I had previously concluded after reading a ton of threads: there looks to be several ways to get this done.
I'm not looking for the most expensive way and not necessarily the cheapest way (I hope my 3K-4K budget fits that idea).
Again, I just want to put it in the mid to low 6's and keep it streetable enough to remain a weekend cruiser.
I appreciate the different points of view.
I'm not looking for the most expensive way and not necessarily the cheapest way (I hope my 3K-4K budget fits that idea).
Again, I just want to put it in the mid to low 6's and keep it streetable enough to remain a weekend cruiser.
I appreciate the different points of view.
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