Twin turbo oil temps/hot idle pressure
08-31-2015, 09:55 PM
#101
I just ordered this guy to help control oil temps. We'll see how well it works and how much help it can be. While my coolant temps aren't a problem I notice a big dip in oil pressure if I'm in boost a lot so my guess would be it's heating up the oil. Hopefully this guy with a dedicated fan will get it in check.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-ROW-AN-10AN-UNIVERSAL-ENGINE-TRANSMISSION-OIL-COOLER-FILTER-ADAPTER-KIT-/252026708417?hash=item3aadf661c1&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-ROW-AN-10AN-UNIVERSAL-ENGINE-TRANSMISSION-OIL-COOLER-FILTER-ADAPTER-KIT-/252026708417?hash=item3aadf661c1&vxp=mtr
09-01-2015, 03:40 AM
#102
9 Second Club
I just ordered this guy to help control oil temps. We'll see how well it works and how much help it can be. While my coolant temps aren't a problem I notice a big dip in oil pressure if I'm in boost a lot so my guess would be it's heating up the oil. Hopefully this guy with a dedicated fan will get it in check.
30 Row An 10AN Universal Engine Transmission Oil Cooler Filter Adapter Kit | eBay
30 Row An 10AN Universal Engine Transmission Oil Cooler Filter Adapter Kit | eBay
Highest I've seen so far is around 230degF, and that's after a few standing 1km runs. It has almost no impact on oil pressure compared to cruising temps of around 195-200degF oil temp
09-01-2015, 07:22 AM
#103
Twin turbo oil temps/hot idle pressure
Originally Posted by The ******
I just ordered this guy to help control oil temps. We'll see how well it works and how much help it can be. While my coolant temps aren't a problem I notice a big dip in oil pressure if I'm in boost a lot so my guess would be it's heating up the oil. Hopefully this guy with a dedicated fan will get it in check.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-ROW-AN-10AN-UNIVERSAL-ENGINE-TRANSMISSION-OIL-COOLER-FILTER-ADAPTER-KIT-/252026708417?hash=item3aadf661c1&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-ROW-AN-10AN-UNIVERSAL-ENGINE-TRANSMISSION-OIL-COOLER-FILTER-ADAPTER-KIT-/252026708417?hash=item3aadf661c1&vxp=mtr
09-01-2015, 10:30 AM
#104
Hey Stevie, I don't know how hot they get but if I put around I sit around 40 psi at idle and if I'm in boost and running it hard I'm down around 25-30 psi but it only drops if I'm really beating on it. The kit was pretty cheap so I figured it was cheap insurance.
09-01-2015, 11:15 AM
#106
9 Second Club
A while back, when my oil pressure dropped only under load..basically my main bearings were fucked. Remove load and pressure was higher.
09-01-2015, 05:36 PM
#108
It only does it when I'm really beating on it and in boost a lot. It was also 90+ degrees outside. I had a 70 BBC Camaro and the pressure would be reduced on extended drives on a hot day then too and that engine had no miles on it, drove it maybe 200 miles a year so I'm not sure I agree with the heat not affecting viscosity and thus pressure. If I drive it normal the pressure hangs around 40 psi at idle and 60 at cruise with Valvoline VR1 10W30 race oil. After hammering it I'm at a little over 25 psi at idle and 45-50 psi cruising. I may not even have an issue I just thought what is the potential down side to having it? Cost? The upside? Longer oil life, cooler overall temps, extra oil capacity and a little insurance on those really hot days? It didn't seem like it could hurt.
09-03-2015, 12:48 PM
#110
When I converted my 346 D1SC setup over to a 403LS2 Front mounted TT, I also dealt with the high Coolant temps. I tried all of the little cheap tricks. None helped.
Like you, I just don't have much more room in the engine bay to install a larger Rad Cor, larger fans with a shroud etc... But I had to do something. I couldn't even drive my car unless I was always moving. At idle, it would continue to climb and climb 250+ until I just had to either shut it down and wait for the light, or pull off the side of the road. Really frustrating, I understand your pain.
Here's what I dreamed up.
I searched every single Radiator and Fan setup on Summit Racing's site. While measure inside my Engine bay in order to figure out what I might "MAKE" fit in there.
I bought this Derale fan set below: Only reason I purchased it? Because it draws some serious power. So in my mind that means more POWA! lol
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16928/overview/
I also bought a HOWE Racing dual core radiator. This was a Universal core that I sized as large as possible and had to mount it creatively. It had the 1.25" width tubes vs. the more common 1". (A little extra capacity I figured couldn't hut).
This fan assembly arrives in two pieces. You need to bolt the 2nd fan to the other, side by side. As it was from the factory, It was way too big for my radiator. About 5"-6"" inches too wide. I removed about 2" in between the middle so that the fans would be almost touching each other (See link for reference). On the top Left corner and Bottom right corner, I had to remove a large amount for it to allow the Inlet/outlet on the radiator through there.
It took a few hours of trimming, setting, trimming some more etc... I ended up using Fiberglass Mat and Resin from Home Depot to permanently attach the fan shroud together. I then painted it flat black and it looks like it was made that way from the factory after a little sanding/finishing.
After all of the trimming, the Fan Assembly was exactly as wide as my Rad core, including the end tanks. I had to trim down the edges around the End tanks so that the flat edges would sit flush on the Rad core, keeping it air tight.
I Put in a new 183* thermostat and never looked back. It completely fixed my overheating issues. in temperatures below 85* outside, Only one fan is needed. It even hits the fan shut off temp while moving. I have a large FMIC in front, a large Trans cooler attached to the AC Condenser and the Condenser's mounted right in front of the Radiator. That's how well this setup has worked for me. Prior to this, I was running the OE 2004 GTO Radiator with dual SPAL fan shroud assembly that Procharger supplied with their kit. It just didn't cut it as soon as the turbos went in.
Sorry for such a long post. I hope it helps in some way.
If I had to help you, Id make sure you had a Powerful Dual Fan (Puller) setup that covered the entire rad core. Every singe square inch. As well as having a Rad. with as much surface area as possible. Then I'd go for as much capacity as it would allow.
Good Luck. I hope you get this PITA figured out fast.
Like you, I just don't have much more room in the engine bay to install a larger Rad Cor, larger fans with a shroud etc... But I had to do something. I couldn't even drive my car unless I was always moving. At idle, it would continue to climb and climb 250+ until I just had to either shut it down and wait for the light, or pull off the side of the road. Really frustrating, I understand your pain.
Here's what I dreamed up.
I searched every single Radiator and Fan setup on Summit Racing's site. While measure inside my Engine bay in order to figure out what I might "MAKE" fit in there.
I bought this Derale fan set below: Only reason I purchased it? Because it draws some serious power. So in my mind that means more POWA! lol
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16928/overview/
I also bought a HOWE Racing dual core radiator. This was a Universal core that I sized as large as possible and had to mount it creatively. It had the 1.25" width tubes vs. the more common 1". (A little extra capacity I figured couldn't hut).
This fan assembly arrives in two pieces. You need to bolt the 2nd fan to the other, side by side. As it was from the factory, It was way too big for my radiator. About 5"-6"" inches too wide. I removed about 2" in between the middle so that the fans would be almost touching each other (See link for reference). On the top Left corner and Bottom right corner, I had to remove a large amount for it to allow the Inlet/outlet on the radiator through there.
It took a few hours of trimming, setting, trimming some more etc... I ended up using Fiberglass Mat and Resin from Home Depot to permanently attach the fan shroud together. I then painted it flat black and it looks like it was made that way from the factory after a little sanding/finishing.
After all of the trimming, the Fan Assembly was exactly as wide as my Rad core, including the end tanks. I had to trim down the edges around the End tanks so that the flat edges would sit flush on the Rad core, keeping it air tight.
I Put in a new 183* thermostat and never looked back. It completely fixed my overheating issues. in temperatures below 85* outside, Only one fan is needed. It even hits the fan shut off temp while moving. I have a large FMIC in front, a large Trans cooler attached to the AC Condenser and the Condenser's mounted right in front of the Radiator. That's how well this setup has worked for me. Prior to this, I was running the OE 2004 GTO Radiator with dual SPAL fan shroud assembly that Procharger supplied with their kit. It just didn't cut it as soon as the turbos went in.
Sorry for such a long post. I hope it helps in some way.
If I had to help you, Id make sure you had a Powerful Dual Fan (Puller) setup that covered the entire rad core. Every singe square inch. As well as having a Rad. with as much surface area as possible. Then I'd go for as much capacity as it would allow.
Good Luck. I hope you get this PITA figured out fast.
11-03-2015, 06:48 AM
#115
Update:
I went a head and put a 20,000GVW oil cooler on the car after the rebuild and did some ducting/Taurus fan etc. My cruise temps are 180* and i haven't seen oil temps get above 200* with some hard freeway pulls. Trans is STG4 Glide with a stock pan and even in traffic it doesnt get over 160* I have a 30,000gvw cooler on it.
I went a head and put a 20,000GVW oil cooler on the car after the rebuild and did some ducting/Taurus fan etc. My cruise temps are 180* and i haven't seen oil temps get above 200* with some hard freeway pulls. Trans is STG4 Glide with a stock pan and even in traffic it doesnt get over 160* I have a 30,000gvw cooler on it.
11-03-2015, 06:50 AM
#116
I agree. I worry about just cruising around with temps never dropping below 200. Just cruising, no boost pulls. Boosting would cause that to jump quickly
it's very odd. I've been chasing it for over a year. it could be multiple things that i'm trying to chase down and keep me running in circles.
it's very odd. I've been chasing it for over a year. it could be multiple things that i'm trying to chase down and keep me running in circles.
Last edited by oscs; 11-03-2015 at 07:11 AM.
11-03-2015, 10:24 AM
#117
Just a little FYI, a friend of mine just picked up a 2015 Camaro SS AE and let me take it for a ride. He drove it over from across town and the first thing I noticed on start up is the oil pressure at idle was just over 25 psi, car had 300 miles on it. I had been curious about what a brand new LS would be at so this made me feel good about my 30+ psi hot oil pressure. Cheers.