GTO Magnacharger TVS1900 to TVS2300 Upgrade
11-29-2014, 02:49 PM
#1
GTO Magnacharger TVS1900 to TVS2300 Upgrade [EDIT 4-24-2020 All pictures can be found at this link - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/df5bp455y...as7G2Y8Ea?dl=0 ]
It's not in a GTO, but my kit is based on a GTO
I bought my supercharger used and put a lot of miles on it since then. Everything still worked fine but at some point in the future it was going to need a rebuild. I had always wanted a TVS2300 but I wasn’t able to know for sure that it was going to fit my application. I looked around and took some rough measurements and figured I would take a gamble and it turns out that it does indeed fit, just barely. The interesting thing is that the 2300’s are less expensive than the 1900’s because the 2300 is much more widely used. Larger and cheaper, not a bad deal.
You can buy a new upper lid from Magnuson for around $500, but I figured it would be fairly easy to modify what I already had.
Here is the old TVS1900 set up:
This is the new head unit that I found:
Business end:
TVS1900 vs TVS2300 side by side:
I knew that the rear most mounting holes for the head unit were in the same place for the TVS1900 and TVS2300 but the mounting holes for the 2300 are further apart (5” vs 4” ) and the window for the 2300 was larger. Fortunately I have a friend with a water jet and he made me a template based off of the 2300 which allowed the holes to be located very easily and accurately.
Template for drilling new holes:
Inside of Lid:
Outside of Lid:
The only problem area that I encountered was the second intake manifold bolt on the right side – it is right under the boss where the bypass preventing the bolt from being able to move high enough to clear the cylinder head prior to assembly.
Area where bolt is blocked:
Some quick work with a Dremel, a grinder and a file and I had just enough space.
Clearanced for the bolt:
Time to assemble the manifold and supercharger. The head unit attaches from inside of the lid – if you ever do this make sure that you figure which of the intake manifold bolts need to be installed BEFORE you put on the head unit, in my case there were 3 and one of the bolts that holds the two halves of the manifold together, they are not shown here.
Head unit bolted to lid from inside:
From there you need to put the o-rings in place, there is one large one that goes around the whole manifold and 13 or 14 ones that go around the bolt holes on the top and bottom of the intercooler palte(13 on one side and 14 on the other). A little patience is needed here.
Intercooler in place:
Bottom of Manifold:
Finished assembly:
In its new home:
So far the 2300 seems to be living up to its promise, but I won’t know for sure until I finish cleaning up the tune and the weather turns warm again, so it will be awhile.
It's not in a GTO, but my kit is based on a GTO
I bought my supercharger used and put a lot of miles on it since then. Everything still worked fine but at some point in the future it was going to need a rebuild. I had always wanted a TVS2300 but I wasn’t able to know for sure that it was going to fit my application. I looked around and took some rough measurements and figured I would take a gamble and it turns out that it does indeed fit, just barely. The interesting thing is that the 2300’s are less expensive than the 1900’s because the 2300 is much more widely used. Larger and cheaper, not a bad deal.
You can buy a new upper lid from Magnuson for around $500, but I figured it would be fairly easy to modify what I already had.
Here is the old TVS1900 set up:
This is the new head unit that I found:
Business end:
TVS1900 vs TVS2300 side by side:
I knew that the rear most mounting holes for the head unit were in the same place for the TVS1900 and TVS2300 but the mounting holes for the 2300 are further apart (5” vs 4” ) and the window for the 2300 was larger. Fortunately I have a friend with a water jet and he made me a template based off of the 2300 which allowed the holes to be located very easily and accurately.
Template for drilling new holes:
Inside of Lid:
Outside of Lid:
The only problem area that I encountered was the second intake manifold bolt on the right side – it is right under the boss where the bypass preventing the bolt from being able to move high enough to clear the cylinder head prior to assembly.
Area where bolt is blocked:
Some quick work with a Dremel, a grinder and a file and I had just enough space.
Clearanced for the bolt:
Time to assemble the manifold and supercharger. The head unit attaches from inside of the lid – if you ever do this make sure that you figure which of the intake manifold bolts need to be installed BEFORE you put on the head unit, in my case there were 3 and one of the bolts that holds the two halves of the manifold together, they are not shown here.
Head unit bolted to lid from inside:
From there you need to put the o-rings in place, there is one large one that goes around the whole manifold and 13 or 14 ones that go around the bolt holes on the top and bottom of the intercooler palte(13 on one side and 14 on the other). A little patience is needed here.
Intercooler in place:
Bottom of Manifold:
Finished assembly:
In its new home:
So far the 2300 seems to be living up to its promise, but I won’t know for sure until I finish cleaning up the tune and the weather turns warm again, so it will be awhile.
Last edited by rao; 04-24-2020 at 09:48 AM.
11-29-2014, 03:04 PM
#2
Nice write up. Thanks for sharing!
11-30-2014, 03:25 AM
#3
Nice work. Always wondered why people opted for the 1900 over the 2300 blowers when throwing down the money, like you said, the 2300 is usually cheaper. 
I never thought size would have played into it a bit, but thought they offered the 2300 for the GTO's?
I never thought size would have played into it a bit, but thought they offered the 2300 for the GTO's?
03-08-2015, 04:54 PM
#5
After I switched the supercharger head unit I had a couple of minor clearance issues, all of which were easy to fix. The one that I couldn't fix was the position of the throttle body coupling about 4.5 inches out from the throttle body - which was about as short as I could make the coupling.
I needed to angle down the throttle body just a little with a wedge, but I also needed the wedge to be fairly small so it didn't mess up everything else.
I saw the Vararam "Power Wedge" which is about the last product I would buy, but looked like it might do the trick and would be easier than making something from scratch. I ordered one from Summit racing.
It turns out that the angle of the wedge is around 5.5 degrees; I needed to know how much room this would move the tube down about 4.5 inches from the throttle body. After spending 5 minutes reliving high school trigonometry trying to calculate the change
I decided that it would be easier to just draw it up to see how much clearance I would gain. I needed 1/8" it looked like I was going to get 1/4"
Since it looked like it was going to work I then hogged out the inside to match my 102mm throttle body and installed it. Success! It gave me plenty of clearance. I did have to massage the bottom of the throttle body which was now hitting the fuel line, but after a few minutes it was done.
Final result:
I needed to angle down the throttle body just a little with a wedge, but I also needed the wedge to be fairly small so it didn't mess up everything else.
I saw the Vararam "Power Wedge" which is about the last product I would buy, but looked like it might do the trick and would be easier than making something from scratch. I ordered one from Summit racing.
It turns out that the angle of the wedge is around 5.5 degrees; I needed to know how much room this would move the tube down about 4.5 inches from the throttle body. After spending 5 minutes reliving high school trigonometry trying to calculate the change
I decided that it would be easier to just draw it up to see how much clearance I would gain. I needed 1/8" it looked like I was going to get 1/4" Since it looked like it was going to work I then hogged out the inside to match my 102mm throttle body and installed it. Success! It gave me plenty of clearance. I did have to massage the bottom of the throttle body which was now hitting the fuel line, but after a few minutes it was done.
Final result:
