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But there are some things that I still have to fix...
one of them is the coolant temp, that when in trafic still stay around 212ºF, and in the road stay around 190ºF...
I already change the thermostatic valve to 160F open, and put a new water pump, OEM from Chevy Corvette, but still remain like before. I'm using Motul Inugel with Mocool in the radiator...
There are some causes that I'm considering that could be... one is that IC stay in the front of radiator, and with a angle, because space it have to be like this... and the oil cooler radiator stay in the front of coolant radiator too...
and the fact that coolant temp stays like this, the oil temp goes up together to around 190ºF on the road and around 212ºF in the streets...
Another think that I'm considering is the radiator.... maybe it's not so effective and I need to do another one.....
"Normal" temperature would be within sensible limits of where your stat is opening/closing.
If temperature is rising far above stat temp, I would deem that as not normal.
So it's a variable, but certainly OEM engines would be quite happy to run in the 212 degF range, some even hotter.
So on that basis, the high temperatures arent a problem, but with a 160deg stat, and if the cooling system was cooling properly, I'd expect coolant temps to be fairly close to 160deg
"Normal" temperature would be within sensible limits of where your stat is opening/closing.
If temperature is rising far above stat temp, I would deem that as not normal.
So it's a variable, but certainly OEM engines would be quite happy to run in the 212 degF range, some even hotter.
So on that basis, the high temperatures arent a problem, but with a 160deg stat, and if the cooling system was cooling properly, I'd expect coolant temps to be fairly close to 160deg
problem solved!
Build a 3 row radiator,
put the fans in the front of radiator
change the oil cooler to the top of the engine (next week).
Now the temp is great and the car is running good....
The only point is that when I turn the boost on, there are some problem, because the afr doesnt stay where it should be... I dont know if there are some unbalance between the 2 turbos when I turn the booster on....
Actually I'm running with 7psi springs in the Tial wastegates, and with 14psi I'm having this issues... with 10psi car running good too....
Question: any of you have some draw as how booster should be use?
I have 1 solenoid, and I'm using the top port of Tial's to turn the booster on...
Some people say to use 1 boost reference and 1 solenoid, but years ago I was advised it is best to run 1 solenoid per wastegate by a guy who used to work in WRC/F1 circles and now works at Aston Martin so that's the route I took with my own.
Well,
When I brought the engine from US to Brazil I did not check the clearances, so I discovered the hard way that the clearance of the pistons were wrong...
So I decided to put forged pistons and connecting rods, a better oil pump and myself made the engine assembly, checking each clearance and bolt torq according to the specified.
Now I should do the break in around 1500miles and then tunne again
I upgrade my fuel injection system to a MS3 (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...hterboard-kit/), so I hope to have traction control soon using my ABS sensor signal... I hope my friend that assembly the fuel injection to me do this! lol
10-12-2015, 02:16 PM
