1000-1300hp. Most street friendly blower/ls combo?
#22
Man you guys are awesome! Straight to the rescue! Thanks so much for everything, especially erls in stock stuff bob!
The setting: I'll be testing this car everywhere from Dallas area to Kansas to Denver to Arizona and Vegas and the west coast. When my buddy travels with his huge freaking enclosed trailer to autocross and various scca stuff, I've negotiated a trailer spot. So I'll be out cruising on the street while he's doing his thing. I'm from the Oklahoma panhandle, so My intentions are success and moreover fun at things like the tx2k, Texas mile, etc..but would also very much like to hit some mountain events like the airstrip attack in colo springs and such. But again, this car is 3/4 insane midnight street cruiser and the rest is a little bit of everything: autocross, mild road race, mile runs, etc.. The main goal I don't want to get away from here is the DRIVABILITY AND RELIABILITY. In my fantasy world, this car would run with NO HEAT ISSUES for distances like power tour, and the only time I might even hint at starting to get heat issues would be on a road or autox course.
I should mention I have a decent support group of asc cert'd buddies, some are even ls blower guys, but weve partnered on some stuff in the past, and just the street manners and heat and oil consumption things have plagued me at high boost. At that high power level things have to be really really right obviously. No 1000+ isn't a big deal, but packaging it in something that cools PERFECT and drives as close to stock as possible, just elusive, for me so far. I'm a suspension guy, not an engine builder
Erl seem like a great way to go..definitely be speaking with them.
The setting: I'll be testing this car everywhere from Dallas area to Kansas to Denver to Arizona and Vegas and the west coast. When my buddy travels with his huge freaking enclosed trailer to autocross and various scca stuff, I've negotiated a trailer spot. So I'll be out cruising on the street while he's doing his thing. I'm from the Oklahoma panhandle, so My intentions are success and moreover fun at things like the tx2k, Texas mile, etc..but would also very much like to hit some mountain events like the airstrip attack in colo springs and such. But again, this car is 3/4 insane midnight street cruiser and the rest is a little bit of everything: autocross, mild road race, mile runs, etc.. The main goal I don't want to get away from here is the DRIVABILITY AND RELIABILITY. In my fantasy world, this car would run with NO HEAT ISSUES for distances like power tour, and the only time I might even hint at starting to get heat issues would be on a road or autox course.
I should mention I have a decent support group of asc cert'd buddies, some are even ls blower guys, but weve partnered on some stuff in the past, and just the street manners and heat and oil consumption things have plagued me at high boost. At that high power level things have to be really really right obviously. No 1000+ isn't a big deal, but packaging it in something that cools PERFECT and drives as close to stock as possible, just elusive, for me so far. I'm a suspension guy, not an engine builder
Erl seem like a great way to go..definitely be speaking with them.
Last edited by Lateralog; 07-20-2015 at 04:19 PM.
#23
OP, what car is it you plan on doing this in? There may will be a build out there that you can copy.
If it's a corvette there are already a few 1400rwhp F1-x cars as well as a good few turbos cars that are making over 1400rwhp.
If it's a corvette there are already a few 1400rwhp F1-x cars as well as a good few turbos cars that are making over 1400rwhp.
#24
Oh ya..sorry, is it indeed a c6. If there's someone Listening that has a successful setup that would allow me to copy, that would be sweeeet. I seem to hear the same things a lot about how a stock block would work for right at 1000. but if the true reliability and longevity and numbers higher than 1000 are achieved via the pricier blocks, I'll bite. I can go at it slow if the wallet starts screaming. and as for stroke and all that, all I know is the main goal is as STREET FRIENDLY AS POSSIBLE ALL THE WAY...
Last edited by Lateralog; 07-20-2015 at 05:40 PM.
#25
Ok there are a few threads over on the corvette forum. Vengence racing have built some cracking TT cars inc Sinistters mid mounted car that's making 1600rwhp. There is also a guy from Finland with a very nice custom kit. Vengeance also have the 1000rwhp TT car that made it in pump gas only (no meth). There are also at least 2 high HP procharged cars. I will try and post some links.
#26
TECH Addict
Not that corvettes are known for trunk space, but are you willing to give yours up?
Moving the radiator to the rear will give you plenty of real estate up front for whatever intercooler/heat exchanger you want or need to run.
I have also seen a 1200 pony rear mount single 'vette, where the turbo and a2w intercooler filled the trunk. If I remember correctly, it was ~100+mm snail, long tube headers to a y-pipe, 2.5" fully wrapped pipe to the turbo, 5" downpipe splitting into two 3" pipes, each of those split with tips, so you had the four exhaust tips centered in the stock location.
I know a lot of people don't like rear mount turbos, but they work... or at least can work when done correctly.
Other than that, if you go centri, look into a cog belt. That pretty much ends the belt slip issue, once and for all. You'll blast a belt at WOT, one time, and one time only. Then you'll know exactly what tension the cog belt needs to be. Don't worry, everyone breaks one.
Moving the radiator to the rear will give you plenty of real estate up front for whatever intercooler/heat exchanger you want or need to run.
I have also seen a 1200 pony rear mount single 'vette, where the turbo and a2w intercooler filled the trunk. If I remember correctly, it was ~100+mm snail, long tube headers to a y-pipe, 2.5" fully wrapped pipe to the turbo, 5" downpipe splitting into two 3" pipes, each of those split with tips, so you had the four exhaust tips centered in the stock location.
I know a lot of people don't like rear mount turbos, but they work... or at least can work when done correctly.
Other than that, if you go centri, look into a cog belt. That pretty much ends the belt slip issue, once and for all. You'll blast a belt at WOT, one time, and one time only. Then you'll know exactly what tension the cog belt needs to be. Don't worry, everyone breaks one.
#27
Ok there are a few threads over on the corvette forum. Vengence racing have built some cracking TT cars inc Sinistters mid mounted car that's making 1600rwhp. There is also a guy from Finland with a very nice custom kit. Vengeance also have the 1000rwhp TT car that made it in pump gas only (no meth). There are also at least 2 high HP procharged cars. I will try and post some links.
#29
Not that corvettes are known for trunk space, but are you willing to give yours up?
Moving the radiator to the rear will give you plenty of real estate up front for whatever intercooler/heat exchanger you want or need to run.
I have also seen a 1200 pony rear mount single 'vette, where the turbo and a2w intercooler filled the trunk. If I remember correctly, it was ~100+mm snail, long tube headers to a y-pipe, 2.5" fully wrapped pipe to the turbo, 5" downpipe splitting into two 3" pipes, each of those split with tips, so you had the four exhaust tips centered in the stock location.
I know a lot of people don't like rear mount turbos, but they work... or at least can work when done correctly.
Other than that, if you go centri, look into a cog belt. That pretty much ends the belt slip issue, once and for all. You'll blast a belt at WOT, one time, and one time only. Then you'll know exactly what tension the cog belt needs to be. Don't worry, everyone breaks one.
Moving the radiator to the rear will give you plenty of real estate up front for whatever intercooler/heat exchanger you want or need to run.
I have also seen a 1200 pony rear mount single 'vette, where the turbo and a2w intercooler filled the trunk. If I remember correctly, it was ~100+mm snail, long tube headers to a y-pipe, 2.5" fully wrapped pipe to the turbo, 5" downpipe splitting into two 3" pipes, each of those split with tips, so you had the four exhaust tips centered in the stock location.
I know a lot of people don't like rear mount turbos, but they work... or at least can work when done correctly.
Other than that, if you go centri, look into a cog belt. That pretty much ends the belt slip issue, once and for all. You'll blast a belt at WOT, one time, and one time only. Then you'll know exactly what tension the cog belt needs to be. Don't worry, everyone breaks one.
#30
TECH Addict
Put the 'vette IN the 60's coupe. Suspension, interior, torque-tube/rear transmission... All of it. You know you want to. You'll be cool if you do it.
Peer pressure... Peer pressure... Peer pressure...
Peer pressure... Peer pressure... Peer pressure...
#31
Shut it. I can dream. A win from 100-150 is better than straight smoked the whole way. Hard to compete with a technological marvel like that. Up against billions in r&d and decades of experience and testing. If I loose to a few max power gtrs and beat every other sucka there, I'll take it. The amount of gtrs that truly have another 50-75k thrown at them on top of the car isn't a big amount, the number of folks with 600-800, way more of them. But there are others too, gallardos, a few black series modded amgs, and a thick crowd of blown mustangs, camaros, ta's, etc...that are making mid to high triple digit numbers. I really seriously considered going red neck crazy and building a 'street outlaws' type car with a trans brake and a big tire and all that, I just like comfy cruising too Much..
Last edited by Lateralog; 07-20-2015 at 05:34 PM.
#32
...lol oh ****...here we go on the unlimited budget.... I know a few BADASS fab/pro touring shops that are doing that, talk about big pulsating Brain type engineering prowess. It would be way cool, and so much more advanced than I am capable of. Unfortunately I'm probably (er...definitely) one of those guys that has less brains than money, if I had to have an irs muscle car id go with a roadster shop frame, that's the extent of my skills. Lolol
Last edited by Lateralog; 07-20-2015 at 06:03 PM.
#33
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (16)
Man you guys are awesome! Straight to the rescue! Thanks so much for everything, especially erls in stock stuff bob!
The setting: I'll be testing this car everywhere from Dallas area to Kansas to Denver to Arizona and Vegas and the west coast. When my buddy travels with his huge freaking enclosed trailer to autocross and various scca stuff, I've negotiated a trailer spot. So I'll be out cruising on the street while he's doing his thing. I'm from the Oklahoma panhandle, so My intentions are success and moreover fun at things like the tx2k, Texas mile, etc..but would also very much like to hit some mountain events like the airstrip attack in colo springs and such. But again, this car is 3/4 insane midnight street cruiser and the rest is a little bit of everything: autocross, mild road race, mile runs, etc.. The main goal I don't want to get away from here is the DRIVABILITY AND RELIABILITY. In my fantasy world, this car would run with NO HEAT ISSUES for distances like power tour, and the only time I might even hint at starting to get heat issues would be on a road or autox course.
I should mention I have a decent support group of asc cert'd buddies, some are even ls blower guys, but weve partnered on some stuff in the past, and just the street manners and heat and oil consumption things have plagued me at high boost. At that high power level things have to be really really right obviously. No 1000+ isn't a big deal, but packaging it in something that cools PERFECT and drives as close to stock as possible, just elusive, for me so far. I'm a suspension guy, not an engine builder
Erl seem like a great way to go..definitely be speaking with them.
The setting: I'll be testing this car everywhere from Dallas area to Kansas to Denver to Arizona and Vegas and the west coast. When my buddy travels with his huge freaking enclosed trailer to autocross and various scca stuff, I've negotiated a trailer spot. So I'll be out cruising on the street while he's doing his thing. I'm from the Oklahoma panhandle, so My intentions are success and moreover fun at things like the tx2k, Texas mile, etc..but would also very much like to hit some mountain events like the airstrip attack in colo springs and such. But again, this car is 3/4 insane midnight street cruiser and the rest is a little bit of everything: autocross, mild road race, mile runs, etc.. The main goal I don't want to get away from here is the DRIVABILITY AND RELIABILITY. In my fantasy world, this car would run with NO HEAT ISSUES for distances like power tour, and the only time I might even hint at starting to get heat issues would be on a road or autox course.
I should mention I have a decent support group of asc cert'd buddies, some are even ls blower guys, but weve partnered on some stuff in the past, and just the street manners and heat and oil consumption things have plagued me at high boost. At that high power level things have to be really really right obviously. No 1000+ isn't a big deal, but packaging it in something that cools PERFECT and drives as close to stock as possible, just elusive, for me so far. I'm a suspension guy, not an engine builder
Erl seem like a great way to go..definitely be speaking with them.
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#34
07. With a Factory z garage installed wide body and a little help from my body shop bro...Really fun car at 600whp, but anything but SERIOUS, ya kno? Blower, injectors, well spec'd cam, Dewitt's rad, century built a6, solid car, but getting BLACK EYES LEFT AND RIGHT on the highways of Mexico at these big evening gatherings.
#35
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (16)
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GQ30...I-07-13-C6.htm
Take a look at ProChargers new direct drive system, detailed in the above link. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#36
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (127)
At that level. There is no such thing as budget.
Cheap.Reliable.Fast.
Pick 2.
Plan out your build down to the bolts. Building something of the nature it will nickel and dime you like hell if you don't got a game plan for the expenses.
Prepare to drop some chinga Ching Ching like a stunna.
Cheap.Reliable.Fast.
Pick 2.
Plan out your build down to the bolts. Building something of the nature it will nickel and dime you like hell if you don't got a game plan for the expenses.
Prepare to drop some chinga Ching Ching like a stunna.
#37
At that level. There is no such thing as budget.
Cheap.Reliable.Fast.
Pick 2.
Plan out your build down to the bolts. Building something of the nature it will nickel and dime you like hell if you don't got a game plan for the expenses.
Prepare to drop some chinga Ching Ching like a stunna.
Cheap.Reliable.Fast.
Pick 2.
Plan out your build down to the bolts. Building something of the nature it will nickel and dime you like hell if you don't got a game plan for the expenses.
Prepare to drop some chinga Ching Ching like a stunna.
#38
[QUOTE=NemeSS;18893454]At that level. There is no such thing as budget.
Cheap.Reliable.Fast.
Pick 2.
Plan out your build down to the bolts. Building something of the nature it will nickel and dime you like hell if you don't got a game plan for the expenses.
Prepare to drop some chinga Ching Ching like a stunna. [/QU
Very true you play you pay
Cheap.Reliable.Fast.
Pick 2.
Plan out your build down to the bolts. Building something of the nature it will nickel and dime you like hell if you don't got a game plan for the expenses.
Prepare to drop some chinga Ching Ching like a stunna. [/QU
Very true you play you pay
#39
TECH Apprentice
Tons of advice given here, some good, and some not so much. Building a 1000 plus hp C6 is not the same as some other platforms. "Budget" is a relevant term but building it to be solid and reliable is not cheap, and to do turbos correctly will cost much more than a centri.
I know everyone means well, but you might want to listen to advice from those that have actually done it, rather than those that read and hear about and then repeat stuff, right or wrong.
Then again, what would I know. Good luck in your endeavor. It can be a fun and rewarding journey, if you plan and do it right.
I know everyone means well, but you might want to listen to advice from those that have actually done it, rather than those that read and hear about and then repeat stuff, right or wrong.
Then again, what would I know. Good luck in your endeavor. It can be a fun and rewarding journey, if you plan and do it right.
#40
UNDER PRESSURE MOD
iTrader: (19)
Since you really like the way your current centrifugal setup runs, I would suggest going with a built block, and a bigger blower. Get your fuel system squared away, ceramic coat the exhaust, get a better drive belt setup, and you should have a very trouble free 1000+hp setup and have very streetable manners.
I went from a D1sC on a stock cube motor making 760rwhp to my current setup which is a 416ls3 with an F1a and it is still just as streetable and friendly as before. I haven't dyno'd, but I would guess I'm in the 800-900 range at least.
The thing about twin turbos, or any turbo setup at the high hp mark, is getting it to be streetable. You need a boost controller to get the boost to come in like a centrifugal does or else it will shock the drivetrain and be more of an on/off switch which is tough for road course and autocross.
I went from a D1sC on a stock cube motor making 760rwhp to my current setup which is a 416ls3 with an F1a and it is still just as streetable and friendly as before. I haven't dyno'd, but I would guess I'm in the 800-900 range at least.
The thing about twin turbos, or any turbo setup at the high hp mark, is getting it to be streetable. You need a boost controller to get the boost to come in like a centrifugal does or else it will shock the drivetrain and be more of an on/off switch which is tough for road course and autocross.