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Drilled and tapped the holes from the upper lid to the adapter plate.
Also ordered the 8 rib drive pulleys off rockauto. Should be here by early next week. Stuff is off some random mid 90's mercedes. Hopefully it will be the right pitch and everything.
Got a set of BTR springs to get my heads built too. Going to swap the valves from the iron heads to a set of bare 317's.
Got the motor mount plates drawn up too. Just need to drill the holes.
the filthy ferret, lol. Ive wanted to do a m112 adapter build for a while now. to simplify pulley lineup and avoid having to lengthen or shorten the snout could you have found where the housing needs to sit to line up the pulley, then mocked up the plates with it there?
oh great thread, please continue photographing and documenting the process.
Great build, though I can't see relying on an old 2 piece POS balancer to drive the SC. Mine exploded all by itself on a low RPM setup driving only the WP and alternator since new. I'd suggest an OEM style SFI rated balancer.
Great build, though I can't see relying on an old 2 piece POS balancer to drive the SC. Mine exploded all by itself on a low RPM setup driving only the WP and alternator since new. I'd suggest an OEM style SFI rated balancer.
are these balancers breaking with forced induction applications only? i just put an NA engine together that has the factory balancer and dont want to take a chance on such a vital component.
I had to move the pulley ahead on the blower since I am already as far ahead in the intake as I can really go. Basically a balancing act between moving it ahead enough to not modify the pulley too much but not go too back to have the elbow hit the master cylinder.
Intake is a magnusson that is used for both the jackshaft car blowers and truck kits.
I didnt know the balancers ever broke. And $420 for the ATI SFI balancer is not in the budget right now. Ill get it running and look into it. It would be interesting to know if its the twist/torsion force that breaks them or the X/Y axis side load that breaks them. Worst case I will build a central support that supports it a bit or just machine one up outta billet.
On today's episode of "if it looks stupid but works, it's not stupid!"
Adapter plate between the GM DBW motor actuating the ford TB. GM TPS with the back milled off and flipped backwards to compensate for the ford and GM throttle bodies being on opposite sides. I'll pull it apart and seal it up better after I verify it works. I'm concerned the motor will hit the master cylinder so until I drop the motor in the car and verify I'm not putting any more time in it. .
Home from college for Christmas break. Got the iron heads off and studs in and LS9 HG's in. 317's should be done from the machine shop middle of next week to go back on.
Heads are back from the machine shop. Probably would have saved money just buying a good set of 317's with valves instead of swapping valves out of the iron heads into these bare heads but at least I know I have a good pair that isn't warped. Simple valvejob and surfaced. They were about 3 thou out.
Probably dropping the engine in Saturday and fabbing motor mounts.
Anybody know what coolant crossover works for the maggie intake? My 6.0 had the 4 point setup but the manifold sits on the valley cover so I cant run it. Im thinking I need a 2 port front setup and blockoffs for the back but I dont have one so I can't check.
Heads are back from the machine shop. Probably would have saved money just buying a good set of 317's with valves instead of swapping valves out of the iron heads into these bare heads but at least I know I have a good pair that isn't warped. Simple valvejob and surfaced. They were about 3 thou out.
Probably dropping the engine in Saturday and fabbing motor mounts.
Anybody know what coolant crossover works for the maggie intake? My 6.0 had the 4 point setup but the manifold sits on the valley cover so I cant run it. Im thinking I need a 2 port front setup and blockoffs for the back but I dont have one so I can't check.
Its in for mockup. Gotta fab the motor mount tabs and grind a little off the bellhousing to make the rear cover bolts clear the multibell 2004r. Manifolds fit so I am just going to be cheap and get it running on the stock pickup ones. PS pump sits in really nice, no really big problems. Only thing thats going to be a problem is the height of the blower. Probably going to need to cut the hood unfortunately.
I did get the blower belt idlers made this week. Stock tensioner with a 1.3" and the third mount tab cut off and a mercedes SL500 8 rib pulley. Had to drill a hole on the idler bearing race from like 8mm to 1/2" or so and counterbore for the tensioner pilot (never turned a bearing race, holy crap that was hard, HSS, cobalt steel, wouldnt touch it. Had to drill with a carbide endmill.) Also made a triangle plate off the waterpump for the idler. Belt was laying around from my old 4.0 cherokee thats the exact right length (haha). Its only 6 rib but enough for like 5psi and testing.
I love custom SC builds, great job so far. Some pointers from someone whos been there if you're interested
1) Going from 6 to 8 rib pulleys, always add ribs to the front. Your balancer wont work and if you used it, youd need custom accessories to shift the pieces rearward. Inexpensive solution is a powerbond SC balancer. $200ish, stock size or 10% OD. Another option is a LSA balancer, more on that later
2) Why try to retrofit the Ford TB/neck when you're clearly capable of making your own to better fit the chassis. Check out the $80 90-92mm TBs on ebay. Cut flanges, smash a 4" tube to better fit the Ford inlet shape and weld together
3) The stock tensioner wont do much, you'll need a better one. Look into diesels if you want a cheap part. Most aftermarket SC companies use diesel tensioner. Alternatively, you can run a LSA SC drive assembly if you run the three belt balancer. Down side if you need to switch accessories. Just cut new brackets if you dont want to buy stuff, that doesnt seem to be a problem for you
4) Try to reduce the SC belt length as much as you can. Mile long belts like that seem like the only option but belt slip and misalignment will wreak havoc on them. IMHO its better to run multiple belts vs one super long belt
5) Dont be scared to design and build your own balancer/hub assembly. I did for a M122 10 rib with separate 6 rib accessory drive. It greatly helps with custom setups like this
I have gathered a bit of inspiration from your builds. Thanks for the input.
1)The pulley setup seems like it wont work but it will. All the factory accessories are run off the stock front 6 ribs so theres no change there. Blower will be 8 ribs and run off what was the AC drive with 4 added ribs. Stock tensioner was moved back .96" (distance from the rear rib of the accessory drive to the front rib of the AC (now blower) portion +.28" for the additional 2 ribs of converting it from the 6 rib to 8 rib.
2) Hindsight an ebay TB adapted would have been a better idea. I had a nutty idea I wanted to run cruise on this and DBW would be easier. However this is starting to be a PITA. Used a 00-02 DBW TB motor which is an oddball and finding a harness someone wants to sell is next to impossible.
3) Tensioner is a big concern. Its pretty soft. Ill find out if I slip or throw a belt once it gets running
4) The belt does seem long but its only slightly longer than the one in my M90 3800 firebird and it runs the same setup with one tensioner and one idler. Makes 12 PSI or so with a tiny 2.6" upper pulley and its never slipped or thrown a pulley. I don't know how, haha. I figure if my 6 rib setup on that can flow 45lbs/min of air 8 rib on a 3" pulley has gotta flow 65ish. That M122 will be basically pumping out more hot air than a politician by then so I'll call that good!
What ever became of that setup you had with the GT500 blower? It came off the car I know for that twin screw but did it get sold or just thrown on the shelf?
In other news, finding a 00-02 DBW harness is turning into a pain. None of the local yards recognize DBW before 03. Tough to ask for something they don't think exists. ECM wont be bad since they are the same for DBW and DBC from 00-02. Pedal wont be bad since they are the same til 05 or so. Finding someone who has and actually will sell the harness AND find the 19245406 TAC module for less than $150 is turning into the hard part.
I like machining better, haha. Next up is ordering some fuel rail extrusion and making rails. Made my own set for my firebird and they turned out great. Also probably buying some speed engineering F body headers and modifying them for the G body. Same as the pacesetters everyone uses and cheaper in stainless so thats a win-win there. Just gotta decide weather to go 1.75 or 1.875.
Did something really similar with a 3.4 whipple into a c5z
Lower maggie tub with an adapter plate, the offset from the innovators west 8 rib corvette pullies to the blower pulley was close enough that the difference could be made up by machining the blower pulley.
Used a manual tensioner at first and had terrible belt slip
Swapped to a ford diesel tensioner and its been kicking *** with a 2.8 upper pulley and 10% overdrive crank pulley.
The intake elbow was made with by cutting a flange to match the blower and another to match the tb. Cut them out with an ancient bridgeport and welded them to a 180 degree elbow
Fits decent and uses the stock gm stuff
Manual tensioner still on in this picture. Made something like 10 more lbs of boost when we swapped to a beefy spring loaded tensioner
12-07-2015, 06:24 PM
