aaronware76

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=aaronware76;19378288]Anytime! Just to update, the car made it over to my tuner tonight. He's gonna do some exhaust work for me then it's gonna hit the rollers sometime over the weekend I believe. It's got an AEM meth kit on it now and we're gonna try the 50/50 boost juice and see how it goes. As long as all is safe and timing is very conservative, we'll run it till 7-8 lbs maybe and see what it makes. I'm guessing 600-650 rwhp. I'll keep you guys updated for sure.

Hey guys, my tuner got the car running and idling well. It should be hitting the rollers tonight. Only draw back is the exhaust. He was gonna fab up the exhaust for me first then tune it but doesn't have time for it, just the tuning. We talked and he said since I have a cutout for the exhaust that I was gonna have him put as close to the downpipe as possible, he would have to tune the car with it open. Since that is the case, he said there is no reason why he couldn't just tune the car with everything just blasting out the down pipe and when full exhaust is on, it'll be whatever it is. I don't know if there will be any dramatic difference in how the car runs once the full exhaust is on but we'll see. My thought is that it just may run more rich and maybe not build as much boost? Both of those are safer operating scenarios so I guess that's ok. What's everyone's thought on that?

ls1charged

iTrader: (8)

[QUOTE=aaronware76;19389058]itll probably work out well if he tunes you with the cutout open cause you typically run leaner with it open, so itll be more towards rich when you put the rest of the exhaust making you a lil on the safe side

aaronware76

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=ls1charged;19389099]thats what I was thinking too.

Game ova

[QUOTE=ls1charged;19389099]As long as you don't have any crazy kinks and bends in your exhaust, you should be able to make the same amount of boost....with or without it. Spool will be faster with open exhaust, that's about it though. This is assuming that you are not stepping down in size from the downpipe.

aaronware76

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Game ova;19389783]there will be a couple bends to get it over to the passanger side to line up with a catback but that's about it. Downpipe is 3". I planned on staying with that and putting a 3" cutout as close to the downpipe as I can, probably on the passanger side where the stock car was originally. The car was not tuned yesterday. Missing v band clamp. Wednesday is the new day for tuning now.

aaronware76

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=aaronware76;19390269]
Well, the car is running well and all tuning done for now. I stressed that I wanted a safe and conservative tune, that's what I got with some good power. The car made 540/518rw and runs way better than it ever did N/A. This is at 7-8psi, 15* timing, and afr in the 11.5-11.7 range. I was looking to hit 600rw and it would've done it and then some but my tuner stressed that the stock shortblock would be on borrowed time then and at this level, I should be able to drive the snot out of it and it'll keep coming back for more. Couple weird things tho.. When the car was na, the torquer v3 cam would peak about 6300-6400 and now it peaks around 5800 and carries flat to 6200-6400, wherever I decide to stop. why did the power band change? I like that it peaks sooner but makes me feel like it's missing some power because of it. Also, we were at 530rw @ 6psi and it only picked up 10hp by going up to 7-8psi. I would've expected more. Plus, my tach was showing 6400 rpm at the end of the run but the software and graph was only showing like 6100-6200rpm. We were thinking clutch slippage but there was no smell and no weird graph to back it up. So I wonder if something is up somewhere? I know the cam is holding me back but i didn't want to open up the engine because I wasn't going for max power anyways due to the stock block. I don't have the car back yet so I can't really give anymore feedback than that at the moment but let me know what you guys think. I do have one short video I can load so I'll do that. If I can figure out how to do it.

Game ova

[QUOTE=aaronware76;19401977]I can't really explain why, but turbo cars aren't typically high rpm screamers. Just for example, mine peaks at 5200 for hp...and 4200 for torque, and this is with the on3 7876....with the precision 7675 it was only 400 rpm higher. I'm going to guess that the reason it didn't really pick up much power is either the turbo isn't really efficient at that low boost setting....or something is killing your exhaust flow. But looking at what you've posted, it seems you've got a nice setup. Now, looking at your dyno numbers...the hp seems to be in line. But in my opinion, the torque seems a bit soft. I can understand about being a little let down by not meeting your rwhp goal, but torque plays a big part in making the car fun to drive.

aaronware76

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Game ova;19401987]
I thought about the level of boost being too low to be efficient. My tuner was really adamit about being cautious about how far we pushed the motor although he said it sounds strong and is not making any noise. There's no exhaust on the car right now, just blastin out the downpipe. The torque is a bit low although it did pick up about 100ft/lbs from when it was na. It's still a great combo and will be a blast to drive. Maybe I shoulda just pushed it more to see what it woulda done at 10-12psi. I know the car and all the components have a lot more potential but I need the block to stay together for now.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

I would guess you had a bit of tire spin or maybe the clutch is slipping. My car picked up 30 rwhp per pound of boost and like I said earlier with the precision 76 it made 630 rwhp on 8 psi. Every dyno reads different but I dyno'd on two different dyno jets and both were within a few hp. All my runs were on 15 degrees of timing with 91 octane + 100% straight methanol on a 15 gpm nozzle.

aaronware76

iTrader: (2)

would my cam be what is holding things back assuming the clutch was not slipping?

ls1charged

iTrader: (8)

how old are your valve springs? thats a decent sized cam which usually requires you replace springs often, like every 10k-15k miles.... possible your springs are getting tired causing valve float?

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Yes, I think that cam is holding you back a lot. A proper turbo cam would probably pick up another 50 or more RWHP.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

It could very possibly be valve float depending on what lobe profiles are on the cam. If the lobes have some aggressive ramp rates the valvetrain maybe unstable under boost. The duration numbers themselves would not really hold you back. My cam is a n/a cam on a 110 lsa with 10 degrees of overlap @ .050.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

It's the Texas Speed Torquer cam, which I believe has very aggressive lobe profiles.

aaronware76

iTrader: (2)

Valve springs have about 12k miles on them. They are the dual springs that came on the PRC heads from Texas speed. They graph looked stable on each run. Didn't look like there was anything irregular from valve float, tire spin, slipping clutch etc. unless it just didn't shop up on the graph.

aaronware76

iTrader: (2)

The cam does have aggressive lobes being the torquer v3. 231/234 duration @.050 643/598 lift 111 lsa.

aaronware76

iTrader: (2)

I knew the cam wasn't ideal but I didn't think it eons hold me back that bad!

ls1charged

iTrader: (8)

it would make sense though because you said its falling off up top, high rpms is where youll see that issue, and your making alot more power too

its not the ideal cam for the setup but it seems like you should be able to remedy the problem with just a spring upgrade

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

I didn't realize it was the v3, which has the LSK intake lobe. The LSK lobe profiles are the worst thing to ever happen to the ls scene, they tear **** up. Yank the cam and replace the valve springs.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

need a dyno graph

also I feel that 15* is too much timing for 93 octane. Even a 9:1 engine at 12psi I see 9* or 10* is best. You run it at 9* and compare to (some higher number) compare torque line (the shape of the curve with 0 smoothing) and the EGT.

If there is Less than 3.5% difference in EGT and Torque with a smoother line at lower timing numbers then you know it needs less timing.