twinturbo496

iTrader: (2)

Have you confirmed the flow rate returning to the tank?

gtistile

All Great input. I appreciate it fellas.


I can tell you no, I don't have actual data of the flow rate. What I can also tell you though is the return back in to the tank is like having your hose at home on full with no nozzle on it. There is, what looks to me, good flow. It's not coming out at 100psi like a jet stream, but it is moving quite a bit of water. I have -12an feed and return, with all -10an Fittings and line on the intercooler core itself. When we turn the pump on after adding ice, the intercooler itself and lines go from warm to the touch, to ice cold to touch in a matter of 5-10 seconds from the cold water flow.

I can also tell you that in 1 pass at the track, 20lbs of ice in the reservoir at the start of the pass is totally melted, and the water is chilly but not frigid when I park after the pass, so heat transfer must be occurring.

This same pump and feed/return lines were keeping the IATs totally in check on my overspun 2.9 Whipple blower without issue.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

It's the rate the heat transfer is occurring that makes the difference though. If the water isn't cycling through fast enough to cool the core it's never going to work as it should. Might call up 417 and ask what the core is rated at in GPM. Then put a little cheapie gauge like this on the return temporarily just to see where you are at.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbine-Digi...9V1Zt2&vxp=mtr

May MIC the ID of those fittings too. My AN10 stuff necks down pretty small. Also alot of the china fittings have super narrow ID's. 1/2" is really too small IMO.



Even true AN12 hardware fittings neck down too far IMO. (not china junk this was pulled off aircraft)



If you get true 3/4" ID fittings and hose I bet it makes a big diff. 1" would be ideal but it starts to look like bathroom plumbing under there...

gtistile

All makes sense to a point. Here's a quick video I just took of the waterflow I have at the return

LJMSJohn

On top of what we talked about on the phone... im not a fan of the T fitting in the rear ports...

I would much prefer there be a -16 to -12 Y fitting and then equal length legs ran to each port on the cooler. at least on the feed side.

gtistile

Let me ask this... How hot would this combo get during a 1/4 mile pass with no intercooler at all?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Those IAT sensors are done around 250. Hot cars I worked on peaked the sensor right around the 1/8th, and those are twin setups.

Can use this calculator for a good guess.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

gtistile

I appreciate it fellas. This is all definitely a learning curve for me and I can't wait to get it totally dialed as it's already pretty rowdy when it's running too hot on low boost!!!

dburt86

iTrader: (2)

Did any of the plumbing change from when you were on the whipple? What turbos?

When you start getting to the outsides of a compressor map, it seems like turbos will start making alot of hot air, but i think you said you were down pretty far on boost.

PS- setup looks great and 139 is a solid *** start for a 4000lb car!!

gtistile

The 3/4" feed and return did not change. Those were mounted to the IC of the blower and now act as my feed/return on this combo.

turbo is a billet S484, so it's not stressing at all yet.

and thanks man!!! i'm really looking forward to pushing it further once I get this sorted!

stevieturbo

Never even noticed the cooler was directly above the sensor. Thought it was a remote cooler.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

you need more flow through the core.

I'm doing my entire A2W system out of -16 fittings and 1" tubing and hoping it will work.

Also, the brick you have is a little thin- so this is going to hurt you as well. Much heat exchanger efficiency comes from thickness- but you can't change this.

I would increase flow as much as possible. Also, you may have good flow sitting still, but loosing it during the pass.

See if you can put a flow meter in line and datalog it. This is actually a good idea and something I will look into doing as well. Surely would help to trouble shoot. Also gives me some engineering data to judge how well the system is working.

temp sensors pre and post the brick on the air and water side would be nice as well.

gtistile

i like how you think. I'll be perfectly honest I was totally naive to how much flow was going to be necessary for this thing to work properly, and again, naively assumed that NOTHING would create more heat than an overspun Roots blower. Well damn was I wrong!!! All a learning process and Im enjoying it a hell of a lot more than the Blower regardless of the unexpected 'issues' I've come across. Learning a lot ever day and every day learning I have much to learn.

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

OP, also you should have some kind of master switch for turning your water pump on and off. Because after your run, like literally as you are decelerating after the beams, turn off your water pump. That helps save most of the ice in your tank. Then turn it on right after the burnout, and as you are staging.

LJMSJohn

You need to do something about getting colder air to the inlet of the turbo as well...

For every degree you lower that... it will lower Iat's 3-5

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure he is even melting the ice?

The lowest hanging fruit is what LJMSJohn said about lowering intake air charge, maybe by removing a headlight or something?? and increasing the flow through the brick.

I'm going to do a calc in a few minutes to estimate the head loss on the water pressure at the brick assuming the tank and pump are in the rear of the car. I'll post up in a few.

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

Makes me want to build a scoop sort of tube for my setup. You can kind of see how mine is positioned in my sig pic. Of course, I would love a forward facing turbo setup, but that will have to be for turbo build v4.0. lol Currently trying to finish up v3.0. It never stops. haha

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Laugh all you want but 5" HVAC alum dryer duct is awesome. Light weight and super strong once you fiberglass it. The joints pull apart so you can add or remove as many links as you want. Twists and turns anyway you need and it's a pretty tight radius. If you do a good glass job and sand/paint it can look nice as well.

I could literally stand on it once the resin set.

svslow

So you fiberglass the outside and then remove the ducting?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Nope leave the ducting in and glass the outside for strength and to seal it.