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Cracked manifold

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Old 08-20-2005, 02:32 PM
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Default Cracked manifold

After we finished putting the new head gaskets on the car, we noticed a little problem with the manifold.


Old 08-20-2005, 02:35 PM
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A little JB Weld should fix it.
Old 08-20-2005, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rwb
A little JB Weld should fix it.
Hey, there's an idea! I was just going to use duct tape
Old 08-20-2005, 02:41 PM
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Annoying but doesn't look too bad... What kind of welds?
Old 08-20-2005, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by paspar2
Annoying but doesn't look too bad... What kind of welds?
Tig welds.. hopefully it will be fixed soon.
Old 08-20-2005, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Zangel
Hey, there's an idea! I was just going to use duct tape
what about some bubble gum?
Old 08-20-2005, 03:55 PM
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Damn already....... i guess if they are going to fix it no questions asked id be ok with it... if not id be pissed andmakea ig deal about it.... how are they treating you???

Kyle
Old 08-20-2005, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Damn already....... i guess if they are going to fix it no questions asked id be ok with it... if not id be pissed andmakea ig deal about it.... how are they treating you???

Kyle
Haven't told him about it yet. Since he has always been extremely helpful, I don't think it will be a problem getting this fixed.
Old 08-20-2005, 04:25 PM
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If your using SS304, be ready for more cracks. Main reason why we stopped using 304. Just ask the Supra guys. Cracked headers are pretty common if you drive it on the street with 304. Make sure you have the turbo braced, that will help with some stress.

Jose
Old 08-20-2005, 04:25 PM
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Where is it located? Rear? Front?
Old 08-20-2005, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sscam68
Where is it located? Rear? Front?
The crack is in the rear (last tube) of the manifold. I am not sure which material he used to make the manifold, but I am pretty sure that it is 304.
Old 08-20-2005, 05:05 PM
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That sucks. I hope a new bead will fix it.

PS, why did ya' put new headgaskets on the car? Lowering the SCR?
Old 08-20-2005, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
That sucks. I hope a new bead will fix it.

PS, why did ya' put new headgaskets on the car? Lowering the SCR?

Levi,

If i remember correctly Brian said something about leaking coolant when the car was on the Power Tour.
Kyle
Old 08-20-2005, 11:00 PM
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Yep, we got a little boost happy before finishing the tune and popped a head gasket.
Old 08-21-2005, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Zangel
Yep, we got a little boost happy before finishing the tune and popped a head gasket.

damn im good....... how isd it i can remember all this crap but i cant remember what my girlfriend said this morning.......
Old 08-21-2005, 12:28 AM
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There is only one long term solution..

These are a different... 4-1 style etc... That is'nt the point.. Its the double slip joint...

http://www.burnsstainless.com/MergeC...ollectors.html

The best tubular turbo manifold will eventually crack wo slip joints.

Its like expansion joints in concrete..

Basicaly brace the turbo to the block supporting its weight completely then have slip joints in the tubular manifold for room to expand and contract. A log mani needs them on each runner where it meets the log just as a 4-1 needs them where the runners meet the collector...
Old 08-21-2005, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by JZ 97 SS 1500
If your using SS304, be ready for more cracks. Main reason why we stopped using 304. Just ask the Supra guys. Cracked headers are pretty common if you drive it on the street with 304. Make sure you have the turbo braced, that will help with some stress.

Jose
This isn't the answer to most cracking issues. 99% of all manifold failures can be contributed to manifold design. Log manifolds will always crack even if constructed from 321 or inconel. Log manifold designs basically self destruct from expansion and extreme temperatures at the last two cylinders on the exit end. Second biggest killer is weight and how the manifold is designed to distribute it. If you're hanging a 40-45LB turbo off tubes that are going to reach in excess of 1000degrees something has to give sooner or later.

Heavy wall construction (.083 or thicker) is the best choice if the turbo must be supported only by the manifolds. 304 or better is also a must, mild steel has a much lower tolerance to heat cracking even if coated. Bellows/flex joints should be used to isolate heat expansion and vibration from the manifolds.

Pretty much every Supra manifold I've seen supports the turbo from the manifold alone. What seems to kill them are the excessively long runners they use. Even with heavy wall tube the extreme amount of leverage placed on the runners off the head will crack sooner or later. In that situation either add some support off the frame rails or gusset the tubes out of the head.

Just some of my experience as a turbo manifold fabricator. Most people don't want to spend the money on a well designed SS manifold with individual runners but instead deal with cracking crap designs that are nothing but a headache and kill performance.
Old 08-21-2005, 02:06 AM
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i'm running 321 stainless on a new set up...just waiting on the turbo to get here so i can finish it up
Old 08-21-2005, 09:22 AM
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yup get used to it, just dnt nget them coated, cause its heck to weld on when you have to fix it
sounds like Brian needs to pick up a tig soon (heres your excuse)

like everyone said its pretty much in the log design, glad im switching to cast manafolds now.
Old 08-21-2005, 09:38 AM
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What brand is it? How old is it?

I am probably going to get the TTI kit and I hope I don't have to get it rewelded every year...


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