Sumped tank build part 1
02-26-2007, 02:58 PM
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Sumped tank build part 1 A year ago I planned on buying a "Nasty" brand sumped tank to support my new FI setup. As I planned the project, it became clear to me that in the process of "tooling up" for my other work, I would be buying almost everything necessary to build a tank of my own (namely a TIG welder and a plasma cutter). I have decided to give it a shot.
Materials and parts:
5052 grade Aluminum seemed like the natural fit, as it is used in boating applications due to high corrosion resistance. I chose a thickness of 0.063 (1/16 inch). I've seen 1/16th inch used in aviation applications, and found a few "custom" fuel tanks of that thickness. I chose to install three Aluminum 1/2 NPT fittings - one on the sump as an outlet, one at the top of the tank for a return, and one pointing "downward" for use with a 1/2 NTP "Curtis Quick Drain Valve" (if you are in aviation, you know this device). For the inlet, I ordered 5052 grade 1" OD tubing. I ordered an R.J.S. Fuel Cell Tip Valve for venting. Grounding will be standard braided line. I ordered a generic fuel level sender as well.
Tools:
As I said, my Syncrowave TIG unit and my 40 amp plasma cutter were the big items, but I already have them. I also ordered a manual Rand sheet metal brake, good for 30" of bend. I bought appropriate bi-metal hole saws for the weld-in fittings and the fuel filler. Finally, I bought a cheap "General Tools" plastic "outside angle" protractor for measuring the angles where the tank is to be placed.
Construction:
This is the step I am at as of right now. I'm getting practiced in the art of thin aluminum welding before I go on to final welding.
Having removed the stock tank, I measured the angles and lengths of the space where the tank is to fit under the car. Having recorded that, I decided that to make the tank 24" wide. This will allow me to "push" the tank all the way over to the passenger side, while allowing plenty of room to mount an external pump on the driver's side. I considered making it narrower to accommodate the future installation of wheelie bars, but decided against it at this time (due to higher desired fuel capacity). I did, however, bend the tank so as to accommodate the upward travel of the Dana 60 that I will be installing. I chose 4043 as welding filler material.
That's as far as I am on construction at this point, due to the fact that I'm not quite comfortable with my weld quality. At this time, the tank fits nicely though.
I am planning on welding the tank "mid section" (the 24" wide bit), then I will cut the end pieces with my plasma cutter. The sump I will hand-make, then I will cut the bottom of the tank and weld it on. The filler neck and return will be drilled with the hole saws, and will be installed appropriately on the driver's side. Looking at my stock sending unit, I'm thinking I may just be able to use it instead of the cheap Summit sending unit... though I'm not sure how to install it through the "bulkhead" of the tank wall. I haven't looked at this much. Finally, I will make small "brackets" to positively hold the tank against the "ribbing" of the rear structure, and against the tank straps. I will use thin rubber between the "brackets" and the car structure/straps. The ground strap will be attached to the body of the car.
Testing/installing/using:
After I am 100% sure of my welding ability, I will finish the construction. I will plug all of the "holes", and will pressure test it at 5PSI. For venting - I will use the RJS tip over valve installed at the top of the tank, then will run a rubber line to a point higher than the top of the filler, and put a filter on it.
Note: I will be running a fire suppression system with my new setup. I have not decided which variety to use.
I'll get pictures up as soon as I get some of the permanent welding done.
Thoughts?? Opinions?? Concerns?? Questions?? Talk to me, you who have experience. Thanks.
Materials and parts:
5052 grade Aluminum seemed like the natural fit, as it is used in boating applications due to high corrosion resistance. I chose a thickness of 0.063 (1/16 inch). I've seen 1/16th inch used in aviation applications, and found a few "custom" fuel tanks of that thickness. I chose to install three Aluminum 1/2 NPT fittings - one on the sump as an outlet, one at the top of the tank for a return, and one pointing "downward" for use with a 1/2 NTP "Curtis Quick Drain Valve" (if you are in aviation, you know this device). For the inlet, I ordered 5052 grade 1" OD tubing. I ordered an R.J.S. Fuel Cell Tip Valve for venting. Grounding will be standard braided line. I ordered a generic fuel level sender as well.
Tools:
As I said, my Syncrowave TIG unit and my 40 amp plasma cutter were the big items, but I already have them. I also ordered a manual Rand sheet metal brake, good for 30" of bend. I bought appropriate bi-metal hole saws for the weld-in fittings and the fuel filler. Finally, I bought a cheap "General Tools" plastic "outside angle" protractor for measuring the angles where the tank is to be placed.
Construction:
This is the step I am at as of right now. I'm getting practiced in the art of thin aluminum welding before I go on to final welding.
Having removed the stock tank, I measured the angles and lengths of the space where the tank is to fit under the car. Having recorded that, I decided that to make the tank 24" wide. This will allow me to "push" the tank all the way over to the passenger side, while allowing plenty of room to mount an external pump on the driver's side. I considered making it narrower to accommodate the future installation of wheelie bars, but decided against it at this time (due to higher desired fuel capacity). I did, however, bend the tank so as to accommodate the upward travel of the Dana 60 that I will be installing. I chose 4043 as welding filler material.
That's as far as I am on construction at this point, due to the fact that I'm not quite comfortable with my weld quality. At this time, the tank fits nicely though.
I am planning on welding the tank "mid section" (the 24" wide bit), then I will cut the end pieces with my plasma cutter. The sump I will hand-make, then I will cut the bottom of the tank and weld it on. The filler neck and return will be drilled with the hole saws, and will be installed appropriately on the driver's side. Looking at my stock sending unit, I'm thinking I may just be able to use it instead of the cheap Summit sending unit... though I'm not sure how to install it through the "bulkhead" of the tank wall. I haven't looked at this much. Finally, I will make small "brackets" to positively hold the tank against the "ribbing" of the rear structure, and against the tank straps. I will use thin rubber between the "brackets" and the car structure/straps. The ground strap will be attached to the body of the car.
Testing/installing/using:
After I am 100% sure of my welding ability, I will finish the construction. I will plug all of the "holes", and will pressure test it at 5PSI. For venting - I will use the RJS tip over valve installed at the top of the tank, then will run a rubber line to a point higher than the top of the filler, and put a filter on it.
Note: I will be running a fire suppression system with my new setup. I have not decided which variety to use.
I'll get pictures up as soon as I get some of the permanent welding done.
Thoughts?? Opinions?? Concerns?? Questions?? Talk to me, you who have experience. Thanks.
02-27-2007, 08:24 AM
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Pictures will be up soon enough. I'm surprised more people don't attempt this, and that worries me a bit. Still, I've seen it done for plenty of airplanes, so I feel okay.
